WU482 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Took off bottom cover. Put belt on center housing than put belt on moter pully.Rolled belt down onto center pully while turning pully clockwise. Popped right on.

It was my first dishwasher belt and it was much tighter than I thought it was going to be. I was worried I was going to break it putting it on so I was a bit stumped, but finally got it on and its good as new.

Had to loosen the drive motor enough to slip the belt around the pulleys. The only problem was the amount of space available to work in.

Typically when the detergent is not being despensed during the wash cycle, the bi-metal switch is bad (they don't tend to last forever). I took the 4 lower screws out from the inside of the dishwasher door,, unscrewed the bi-metal switch, and screwed in the new switch. I also decided to replace the metal spring for the dish as well, which took the majority of the time. Once you get the idea of how that spring is wound in there, the install goes pretty quickly.

First, I had to remove the outer face panel of the door. Four screws on the inside of the door hold the large panel onto the front. Removing these screws and the panel revealed the detergent cup assembly. There is no need to disconnect the power as long as the door latch is in the open position for this repair. I removed the two wires, blue and white from the leads, keeping note which was attached to which lead. I used a hex head screw driver to remove the 6 screws that hold the detergent cup in place. After removing the detergent cup and gasket, I cleaned the surfaces with a scouring pad to make sure the new gasket would have a good seal. I installed the new detergent cup with the 6 hex screws and re-attached the leads. I replaced the face panel with the four interior screws after running a couple cycles to be sure the problem was fixed, which it was.

remove 3 screws from either side door edge trim : Note ! panel "notches" are up : remove both original panals plus the cardboard spacer : swap only the old color with the new one and reinstall spacer cardboard and be sure it stays centered : remember panel notches are up : carfully slide the panels over the spacer cardboard while keeping the cardboard centered : becareful panel edges can scratch in the door trim : Note! opposite side door trim can be removed if needed .

No problem at all. Belt slipped on very easily. Followed directions in the package.

1. Removed the four screws to remove the door front.
2. Removed the six screws to remove the detergent cup.
3. Replaced bimetal strip, cam, and spring. (simple task)
4. Replaced gasket and seal.
5. Replaced detergent cup.
6. Replaced door front.

I opened the bottom part of the dishwasher, from there you can see all parts of the motor including the pulleys where the broken belt came from. From here, I took the new belt, placed some silicon all around it and installed it by rotating the pulleys clockwise until the belt wraps around it.
Then I tested it by turning the control on the Wash/Rinse mode and it started to drain the water right away.
DONE!

NO PROBLEM!!!

PS.
THANK YOU FOR DELIVERING IT ON TIME.

It was either the timer assembly of the Dispenser cup assembly. After looking at the dispenser critically< it appeared that the cam was quite worn. The replacement was accomplished by removing the bottom part of the door (4 screws) and then removing the dispenser cup (8 hex-head screws). If you keep the starter lever to "off" there is not power to the timer and you do not need to disconnect power

Removed four screws that hold front panel. Disconnected two wires, removed six screws, cleaned of old gasket material. Installed new gasket and soap dispenser with six screws. replaced two wires. replace front panel.

found the parts ordered them an poof dishwasher us as good as new

My daughter and son removed the old gasket and installed the new one. It went well.

Turn off power, remove the lower kick plate and lower trim panel with the nutdriver. The float switch is in the front on the left. Remove the two wires on the switch. Use a #1 philips to remove the one screw holding the switch to the frame. Remove switch. Install wires on new switch and install switch using the screw. Be sure to get the plastic float arm under the switch. Raise float and observe the switch clicking on and off. Replace lower plates and restore power.

Remove lower cover, 4 Phillips screws. Remove bracket with float switch, two hex head screws in the rear. After removal pull switch wires, two in plastic housings. Remove float switch, one small Phillips head screw. Remove float switch lever, one Phillips head screw. Clean the bracket and lever. Replace the lever and lube with silicone. Replace the float switch, (new one) and replace wires. Reinstall install bracket with original hex head screws. Replace lower cover. Done.