MDB6658AWS Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Just slide the old upper dishrack forward to the end. The stops on either slide must be removed . Only difficulty was getting the plastic stops to open up. We used a thin metal knivre to wedge into the opening.

Removed 2 each screws from counter top. Pulled washer out 1'. Installed springs and linkage by hand with door closed. Push washer back reinstalled 2 screws.

da basket don't come with rections so you gota figer it out yor sef. I tride pullen the handle off and it work then I tride pushen it on the other basket and it work to. Then i tride swapen dem and it work so thats how ya doit

I removed the four screws that hold the front kick plates on. Then, I removed the hose clamp (on the right side of the pump that secures the top shower hose assembly to the pump assembly. Then I pulled the dishwasher out, and pulled out the four black snap clips that hold the insulation in place. I then folded the insulation back and reached inside the dishwasher to disconnect the hose assembly. On the top spray arm is a nut that is easily removed without any special tools.
Be sure to save the rubber washer unless you order a new one along with the top shower hose.
Overall, an easy fix. Saved about $100.00 by doing it myself.

Looked into the problem, cleaned the sprayers out to no avail. Looked at drawings of dishwasher and noticed it had a filter. That seemed to be the next easiest thing to check. Removed the lower spray arm with channel locks, then removed the filter housing by removing 6 screw, removed old filter, replaced with new and reversed the above steps for re-assembly.

Piece of cake!

I TOOK THE INSIDE PARTS ABOVE THE MOTOR APART AND TRIED TO CLEAN ALL THE CALCIUM AND MINERAL DEPOSITS THAT WERE PRVENTIN WATER FROM GETTING THROUGH. THERE WAS A LOT OF CALCIUM. MOST OF IT i WAS ABLE TO CLEAN AFTER A LOT OF SCRAPING AND SOAKING IN VINEGAR AND CLR. THE VINEGAR WAS THE MOST EFFECTIVE OF THE TWO.
i BROKE THE FILTER GUARD WHEN I TOOK IT APART. I SHOULD HAVE CHECKED ONL.INE BEFORE i START IT. THE SECONDARY FILTER ASSEMBLY WAS TO FAR GONE DUE TO MY MISHANDLNG AND HEAVY DEPOSITS INSIDE THE FILTERS. PUTTING IT BACK WITH THE NEW PARTS WAS EASY BUT I HAD TO SUBSITUTE SCREWS BECAUSE THE ORIGINAL ONES WOULD NO LONGER HOLD TWO PARTS TOGETHER. THE PARTS WERE LEAKING TO MUCH WATER. ONCE I HAD IT BACK TOGETHER THE SECOND TIME IT WORKED FINE. HOWEVER I HAD REALIZED THAT THE O-RING WAS NOT MISSING (MY BAD EYES DID NOT SEE IT IN PLACE AND SO I THOUGHT I HAD LOST IT). i EMAILED PARTS SELECT FOR A RETURN AUTHORIZATION BUT NEVER HEARD BACK FROM THEM. MAYBE I NEED TO GIVE THEM A FEW MOR DAYS. THE O-RING COST $3.76 AND MY WIFE WILL NOT BE HAPPY TIL I GET THAT BACK. PARTS SELECT DIAGRAM AND PARTS PHOTOS AND ANOTHER WEBSITE WERE A BIG HELP..

Unscrewed the 2 screws securing the dishwasher to the counter. Unscrewed 2 front panels. Shut off water valve. Disconnected water intake. Pulled dishwasher out 5 inches. Removed broken spring, replaced it. Checked the door movement. Scrubbed the door rubber gasket of calcium deposits & debris. Replaced the Teflon tape on the water intake. Reconnected water hose. Opened water valve. Checked for leaks at the water intake location. Ran 1 dishwasher cycle again for leaks. Pushed the dishwasher back under the counter. Secured the 2 screws on top of the dishwasher to the counter. Reattached the 2 front panels and enjoyed a glass of wine.

Seemed like I was getting more food stuck on my dishes than cleaned off. Because I've had this problem before, I already knew how to remove the lower spray arm and take off the large white housing beneath the spray arm with a special nut driver (shaped like a star) to get at the parts inside. The white plastic filter that circles the lower sprayer center was totally clogged and bent out of shape and was preventing the spray arm from turning. The microfilters built into the large white housing part that I removed using the special driver were also clogged from years of use. I cleaned the microfilters by agitation in water with lots of vinegar, poked the calcium deposits out of the holes that were clogged in the lower spray arm, and put the whole thing back together with the new plastic filter I bought from this site. Works like new again.

removed old and broken and replaced. The best part was, the turn around time from partselect. The fastest delivery of anything I ordered that part a 2 in the afternoon and had it the NEXT day, without specifiying any extra rush shipping. Right part too! Amazing job! Thanks

When the (overpriced) replacement silverware basket arrived (rapidly, within a few days of my ordering) I was shocked and angry that the handle for the basket was not included--nor were instructions included as to how to remove the old handle from the old basket in order to fasten it to the new basket. Therefore, I spent a considerable amount of time trying to pry the handle off the old one, which was quite tricky: There were four slots which held the plastic "catches", and they had to be pushed out simultaneously. I had to fiddle with it for at least a half hour, trying various implements, until I found that I could push them out simultaneously by wedging butter knives into the slots and then easing the handle off. (I was careful to position myself so that I wouldn't slip and stab myself with the blunt butter knife.) After that, the handle snapped fairly easily into the new basket's slots.
In the end, while I was glad to be able to recycle the old handle, I wish that the basket and shelves were made more durably so they wouldn't have to be replaced, or that they could be replaced at a more reasonable price.

***BEFORE STARTING BE SURE TO TURN OFF THE POWER!!
THE SPRING TENSION WAS GONE THAT WOULD KEEP THE DOOR FROM FALLING. KEEP IN MIND THERE IS A DOOR SPRING AND LINKAGE ON BOTH SIDES OF THE DOOR. SO BUY 2 OF EACH AND RETURN THE ONES YOU DON'T USE. IF YOU REPLACE THE LINKAGE ON ONE SIDE YOU MIGHT AS WELL CHANGE THE OTHER ONE SINCE IT'S ONLY A SMALL PLASTIC PIECE.
FOR ME THE SPRING WAS GOOD - ONLY REPLACED THE LINKAGE. REMOVED THE PANEL AT THE BOTTOM AND THE 2 SCREWS THAT HELD IT UNDER THE COUNTER TOP. I DIDN'T DISCONNECT THE WATER BUT WAS ABLE TO PULL THE UNIT OUT JUST ENOUGH (10 INCHES OR SO) TO GET TO THE SPRING. HELD IT IN PLACE WITH THE VISE GRIP SO IT DIDN'T FALL BEHIND THE UNIT. FYI - YOU MIGHT HAVE TO ADJUST THE TENSIONER ON THE BOTTOM IF YOUR SPRING TOOK A WALK WHEN THE LINKAGE BROKE. BE CAREFUL PUSHING THE UNIT BACK UNDER THE COUNTER. TOOK ME ABOUT AN HOUR AND SAVED SOME MONEY

On my dishwasher, one linkage broke, making the door feel heavy to raise and lower. Because there are two door springs, one on either side, I decided to replace both plastic linkages even though only one broke, because it would only be a matter of time before the other plastic link failed and I would have to do the repair all over again. Remove the 2-piece panel at the bottom front of the dishwasher. It's held on by four hex-head screws which also have slots for a Philips screwdriver. The springs can now be seen on both sides of the door, at the bottom. Remove two screws that anchor the dishwasher to the underside of the counter. Gently ease the dishwasher a short distance out from its under-counter recess, just far enough to gain access to the springs. Make sure not to put any excessive strain on the water inlet tubing, drain hose or electric power cable by pulling the dishwasher out too far. Close and latch the dishwasher door so that the springs are in minimum tension. Note the slot that the linkages hook into on the door levers. Hook the small end of the spring into the hole in the metal bracket. Slide the linkage onto the other end of the spring. Stretch the spring to slide the free end of the linkage onto the door lever and into the appropriate slot. Push the dishwasher back into its recess and replace all screws and panels.

I took off bottom front and kick plate. Retrieved the spring which had flown to the rear of the unit. Cannot pull unit out because the trim piece on the counter top was put in after the unit was screwed to the underside of the counter. So... I noticed that you could move the plate the bottom of the spring hooked into by unscrewing a long quarter inch hex head bolt and bring the plate forward where I could hook the bottom of the spring into the plate. I had first hung the door spring linkage on the door (looked at the opposite side to see how it was arranged) then onto the top of the spring. The difficult part was keeping the bottom of the spring in its hole in the plate while moving the plate back in place. After I got it past the flange where the bolt screwed in, I screwed the bolt in and pulled the plate back to match the opposite side distance which put tension on the spring. The door now works. I am fortunate to have my husband's tools available.

Turn off power, remove the lower kick plate and lower trim panel with the nutdriver. The float switch is in the front on the left. Remove the two wires on the switch. Use a #1 philips to remove the one screw holding the switch to the frame. Remove switch. Install wires on new switch and install switch using the screw. Be sure to get the plastic float arm under the switch. Raise float and observe the switch clicking on and off. Replace lower plates and restore power.

Never having repaired a dishwasher before, I disassembled everything I dared to until I found the root of the problem--part of the impeller had broken into several little bits. It wasn't apparent where the pieces came from, but the on-line diagrams and product photos helped. The broken impeller didn't want to come off the shaft, so I just crunched it up with a pair of vise grips. That seemed to be the gentlest solution for the pump bearings. The bits of impeller also took out the pump housing, which I could have ordered with the impeller had I been more observant. [insert four more days of washing by hand here] Inspect all parts for damage and clean out all stray chunks of food and plastic before reassembling!