MDB7100AWW Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Figured out that the only thing that could be causing this was a bad inlet valve. Repair was really easy. Didn't even have to pull machine out from under cabinet. First removed kick plate. Then placed towel under the old valve. Undid the power connections and water lines (in and out). removed the to screws holding the valve to the body of the washer. With the valve free, removed the brass elbow and installed it on the new valve. Reinstalled the valve and all connections. Works like a charm.

Simply remove the washer nut,then pull the float assembly. As far the lever,just unscrew the screw and replace the actuator lever. What was great about everything I was able to go to the presented diagram. This allowed me to find the exact parts I needed. Of course make sure you have the model number.

We have a nine year old Maytag dishwasher. The handle latch is plastic and over time with the many repeated uses it cracked and broke. I went to the local appliance repair shop and found the part in their data base but it would take ten days to get and cost $22.
My wife and I thought it might be time to get a new dishwasher but after checking out prices at $500 or more, I decided to search on line and repair it myself.
I found the part easily and quickly on Partselect.com and it was actually half the price of another internet dealer. The photographs helped me confirm I was buying the right part. It cost $6 plus shipping and I was amazed that it arrived in two days to California. It was easy to install, simply by removing the interior panel and slipping the new piece into place in the handle. The dishwasher works like new.
Thank you, Partselect.com for a quick answer to our problem!

The repair was very involved, but from previous experience cleaning the dishwasher, it was worth not having to buy a new one. I removed all of the lower parts down to the motor shaft. That process is tricky, but if you do it methodically, and slowly, it is not too bad. The real problem wash the scum that was left behind by the soap used in the dishwasher. After removing all the parts, I ordered the parts I could not clean, and cleaned the parts I could. I figured out that the door was leaking because of the soap scum buildup on all the parts, causing the water level to raise faster than it could be pumped out. After I received the new parts, I simply put everything back together and it works better than ever now. I used the parts layout on your website to help in aiding me to put everything back correctly. I am very appreciative that I can get parts easily through your website, and not have to hire a "service technician" to come out and do the same thing, for the price of a new washer. Thanks!

I took the bottom rack out of the dishwasher. I then took the filter guard and bottom spray arm out. Then I took the screws out of the filter guard to get to the rinse arm. I took the filter guard off, took the old rinse arm out and put in the new one. Have to make sure it is completely resting inside there. Then I put the filter guard back on. Put the screws back into the filter guard, put the two arm seals down around the rinse arm, put the bottom arm spray with guard back into the notches, put the screw top on so it can screw back in and the dishwasher is ready to go. Just make sure that you don't have a lot of soap built up, it will not clean the dishes right nor will the spray arms move. I had to call my appliance person out, and I have so much built up from soap, that I had to order a new filter guard and top and bottom spray jets. I now know to switch back to powder or liquid soap, because the tablets make a huge built up of soap... I have these parts on order now. In the meantime, I am cleaning out the jets with dishwasher magic and vinegar while I am waiting for my new parts. I now know how to put things back together so when I have this happen again I will know how to do it to save me the 63.00 office call and parts. I am happy that I know where to get my parts when I need them or break them by accident on trying to put my dishwasher back together again. Thanks.

Make sure dishwasher is powered off. Remove all inner door panel screws. Lift inner door panel upward and lean against the tub. Use a putty knife or spatula to lift old lower foam seal. Make sure door seal area is clean. Start at one end, butt new foam against the side of door and slowly pull glue strip backing while pressing foam down from left to right. Reverse door assembly.

Make sure dishwasher if off and door unlatched. Remove lower kick panel 4 screws and remove 1 screw securing float switch arm. Hold float stem with pliers and remove bottom stem nut. Remove float and re-install the new float with reverse procedure listed.
Super fast shipping on items!! Great service.

Located circuit breaker for dishwasher and turned off breaker to secure power going to unit. Removed water spray bar arm inside dishwasher basin by unscrewing center nut and unclipping tabs against arm. Removed sheet metal access panels on bottom front of unit. Removed two individual plug in wires to temperature thermister. Removed 4 conductor plug wiring going to motor. Removed ground wire going to motor frame. Located plastic handle which cam locks motor / pump assembly into place. Pulled handle down gently to unlock from detent and turned clockwise to release pressure on assembly. Removed motor / pump assembly from dishwasher enclosure. Installed all new parts purchased as listed above utilizing parts breakdown aquired from PartSelect.com. Reinstalled motor / pump assembly in reverse order as listed above. Tested and ran unit with no problems. Thank You PartSelect.com, Robert.

Peeled off the old foam strip, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, let dry completely, applied new foam strip,replaced door interior done I wish repairing relationships with fiance and kids were one tenth this easy.

Actual i missed diagnosed the leak and ordered a very expensive door gasket. The leak was coming from shrinage of the wax resevoire o rig and the tab seal for the soap dispensor. I missed the trees the forest got in the way. The leak was dripping alond the front panel well away from the main door seal.

I cleans a the plastic surfaces and noticed a lip around the opening for the reservoire and used 150 sandpaper to remove it. Replaced the O ring, tab seal and bothe selonoids and cleaned everything. Put it back together. Works find lasts along time

It takes about 5 min. to disassembled the lower jet system. As you disassemble, make sure you clean all the filters, and asses the integrity of the filters. If they are broken, you need to replace. Once you get to the impeller, you know it is broken because the lower part is loose. To replace you need to firmly hold the impeller as you unscrew the top screw. If the housing gasket is broken or too loose, replace. Otherwise you will have leak. Refer to your models diagram for proper assembly.

First of all, rather then spending the 44 dollars on the main door seal simply cut yours in halve and trim a quarter of an inch from the disintegrated ends and use superglue and glue these ends together. this glued end will now be up top and in the middle and new clean ends will be down in the corners. next I removed the plastic door panel using a torxhead screwdriver, I just stuck the new inner foam pad on the old one. Then I glued rubber washers to the inner frame about 1/8 thick in the top 2 corners only. Finally I reattached the plastic door being careful not to tighten the torx head bolts just tight enough. It's dry and working good.

Sooooooooo, I ordered a new kick plate, it arrived promptly, tried installing it and it was being difficult. Removed plate above that and lined up new plate(kick plate) tried putting plate above it on and as when we installed the machine that upper plate was difficult. Removed upper plate to fcheck problem of installation and guess what? Stuck in the inside of the upper plate was the lower plate complete with sound insulation. Happy ending :-)

removed inner door panel. tested ythe Wax motor that operates the soap dispenser latch. It tested OK so I removed dispenser assembly. replaced the worn plastic parts and reinstalled the inner door panel.

Removed four screws on bottom plate. Located repair site on outside of cabinet. Had to hook spring on bottom rear plate by brail. Then attached linkage to spring and ran stiff wire through linkage to raise it above arm. Called a man with stronger but larger hands had him stretch the spring while I guided linkage over arm and into the slot using the wire. Removed stiff wire with needle nose pliers and reassembled front plate.

I replaced the door latch grommet just as everyone else has described on this site. It was pretty easy. I was amazed that such a little piece of rubber can let so much water get by. The inlet valve was not too bad either. Take the two bolts out that hold the bracket to the dishwasher. Remove the rubber hose on the back side and take loose the two electrical connections. My water line was long enough to pull it out in front of the dishwasher. Then I took the water line loose and removed the fitting. Installed the new one in reverse order of what I just described. These items took care of the bulk of the leaking problem. But I am in the process of ordering a new door seal which I hope resolves the rest of the issue. Also make sure you check the upper and lower control arms to make sure the spray holes are free of debris. This dishwasher was full of pieces of clear plastic that caused the spray arms to spray indirectly and towards the cracks of the doors.