MDB6650AWS Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

1) Emptied Dishwasher (roll-around model)
2) Tipped it onto its back
3) Removed Toe Kick (2 screws) and Bottom Cover (4 screws) (screw driver)
4) Opened Door to access side panel (careful not to let it drop on my fingers)
5) Using Torx driver, removed two screws holding side panel on. This makes it easier to access the linkage and spring.
6) Removed broken link
7) Installed new link and spring noting the spring direction from the spring on the other side of the door.
8) Pulled spring over the bottom rail bracket with pliers.
9) Reinstalled panels in the reverse order.

This was really easy. I just took out the two screws securing the unit to the counter top and slid it out about 6 inches. Broken plastic spring linkage was obvious and easily accessible. I didn't know there was one on each side, I would probably have went ahead and ordered both and replaced them at the same time.

from inside the door remove torx screws down each side and top , pull panel back , removed 6 screws from back of dispenser ,unplug 1 wire connection ,reverse procedure , real easy repair.

I remove the inner door panel, disconnected two quick release connectors, unscrewed the old part from the inner panel and installed the new one.

The new part arrived quickly and was the perfect match.

It is such an easy snap-on repair that a child could do it. I am grateful that your company had a picture so I could compare my broken part with the ones you guys have as I couldn't find my model number. I took my time to do the job right, so it took me almost 15 seconds! lol

I first removed the bottom access panel and 2 upper screws holding the dishwasher to the counter. Be sure to remove the standing water in the bottom tray. I pulled the chassis far enough forward to reach where the top shower hose attaches ( the supply line and wire had enough slack to move the chassis ). Not knowing how the rotating shower arm attached, I unscrewed the ribbed retaining ring above it, and found the whole assembly came loose - freeing the upper end of the shower hose. Put a shallow tray under the lower end of the shower hose to catch the remaining water and loosen the hose clamp to free the remaining end of the hose. Transfer the rubber washer at the top end and the hose clamp at the bottom, to the new hose and install. A quick repair, but one that shouldn't be needed on a 4 year old dishwasher.

I pulled the AC to the device, took the door apart , unscrewed the mounting to the door, unplugged the wires to it, plugged the wires on the new part, screwed it to the door, and finally put the door back together. Oh yeah, had to plug AC back in.

Attaching the part to the door only took a few minutes but getting the dishwasher out over the hardwood floor that was installed after the appliance was put in was a pain. I had to remove a piece of the hardwood floor and use some technique to get it out of the opening so that the springs were visable. There is no problem after that. I would recommend using work gloves to stretch the spring over the retaining notch on the door so that you don't pinch your hand.

I first removed both lower front shields,(4 screws)
I then shut off water supply to inlet valve from hot water supply. I removed the water hose from inlet valve,two electrical terminals,( I put tape on right side terminal and lettered with an R as not to mix up the two terminals)removed the hose clamp,removed valve from frame.I reinstalled in reverse procedure.I turned the water back on and checked for leaks.I started the normal cycle and water flowed into the dishwasher as designed.

The lower spray arm of this model has a chronic problem with the plastic seams splitting and the horizontal blast causing door leaks. This was the third spray arm replaced on this unit. Rather than simply replacing the spray arm with the OEM device purchased, I used a solder gun to reweld the seam on the spray arm. I expect that the additional welding will provide many more years of service than the OEM replacement part. They should really improve the quality of the replacement part to prevent splitting. A metal replacement would be worth $50 and provide a better repair than the plastic arm.

Finished the project in 50 minutes, including eating lunch in between. Steps involved: 1. Open the dishwasher door and remove the 10 screws holding the inside door to the front of the unit (need to use a star head with your screw driver for the special screws). 2. Close the inside part of the door and insert a screw, pencil or anything that will fit in the latch to keep the door closed (this will keep the door from continually falling onto you while you work). 3. Gently pull the front latch off it's mounts (the latch is snapped into two plastic anchors and has to be "popped" out. My plastic anchors where broken so the latch came out very easy). Also, you may have to disconnect the two wire harnesses from the sides of the latch unit. Look closely and you will see two plastic stems that hold the wired parts in, you just have to push the two stems back just a bit and gently pull the wiring units away from the latch. Make sure you remember which side you removed them from. 4. There is a plastic sheath protecting the main control module from getting moisture on it. It is glued on so you have to remove it. This is the only thing I wasn't prepared for as I had no glue to replace it. I found some double sided sticky tape that I used which seemed to work well. 5. Find the screws holding the main control module and the rest of the screws in for the front panel cover that you will be replacing and remove them (you will need a small socket wrench for this) 5. The main wiring module is also held into place with approximately four smaller plastic moulded clips on the top and 3 or 4 longer plastic moulded clips on the bottom. You will be replacing this plastic part so you don't have to worry if they break while removing the control module (it's still a good idea to never force anything to the point of breaking). 6. Once you have the main control module and the front plastic panel removed, replace it with the new part and screw it back into place saving the control module for last. 7. Snap the control panel module back into place and replace the screws you took out when removing (this was the most difficult step in the entire project as the control module is hard to snap back into place. I finally tilted the upper part of the module into place under the top-smaller clips and then snapped the bottom into place. Make sure the entire control module snaps in and be very careful not to break any of the plastic clips). 8. Replace the plastic sheath that covers the control module (I used double sided sticky tape) You will also notice the plastic sheath has two cuts in it for the latch area. You can just put those over the latch and line up the sheath where you have to glue it back. 9. Snap the center latch into place and then reconnect the wiring harnesses. 10. Close the inside door panel and put the 10 screws back in (make sure to go around the outer edge of the door with a flat screw driver and make sure it "pops" into place behind the plastic outer cover)... 11. Check your dishwasher to make sure it works. Some of the push buttons seemed stiff but this was due to having a new front panel, just need to push a little harder to run it). Good luck!!

My handy husband was able to take it apart easy, and then your online site was great at showing us exactly which parts were needed to replace. Then a few mintues to put the 4 pieces together and now I've got all the room I need for the extra dishes!!The whole experience was so easy and very helpful!! thank-you very much!!

Although the (top) dishrack assembly included the nylon wheeles, it was easier to replace the old one by disengaging it from its wheels and installing the new rack on the old wheels kept in the slider track. The snap hook that held each wheel to the old rack was popped loose (finger pressure) and the old rack removed. The new rack was held in place and each of the four wheels snapped to it. Each wheel fits into a wire post on the basket and the plastic hook snaps onto the wire frame. The most difficult part of the 'repair' was removal of the handle from the old silver ware basket. I used screwdrivers to simultaneously pry the four tabs of the halde out of the slots on the basket and pulled (hard!) the handle off. It snapped easily into place on the new basket.

Turned off water at valve, removed float switch, removed water inlet vlv. Replaced and reassembled. Still not water going into the machine. I have no voltage to the valve or float switch. I then took the door apart to find there were burnt wires as well as a burn mark on the control panel. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the door seal has failed and water got into the door. Had to replace dishwasher with a new one.

I simply connected the two hoses to the valve plugged in the two wires and it was working!