DWU8702AAE Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed the old door gasket and thoroughly cleaned the track. I placed the new door gasket in place- no problems.
I had to remove the 7 screws from around the door to access the old, crumbled gasket. This was accessed by removing 2 screws with a socket wrench. The old gasket pulled out and the new one slipped right in.
No more leaks!

I first removed both lower front shields,(4 screws)
I then shut off water supply to inlet valve from hot water supply. I removed the water hose from inlet valve,two electrical terminals,( I put tape on right side terminal and lettered with an R as not to mix up the two terminals)removed the hose clamp,removed valve from frame.I reinstalled in reverse procedure.I turned the water back on and checked for leaks.I started the normal cycle and water flowed into the dishwasher as designed.

first I turned off the water to the dishwasher, and turned the power off for the dishwasher.
removed the 4 screws from bottom panel
then removed the 2 screws from the bottom of the counter,
at this point I could pull the dishwasher out. then figured out where the part went and attached.
pushed the dishwasher back and lined up the holes under the counter, put those in first, the put the bottom panel back on, turned the water back on, and flipped the breaker switch.
Reading the other stories really did help me get some idea of what needed to be done

I simply connected the two hoses to the valve plugged in the two wires and it was working!

Unscrewed the inside door panel. Removed the reservoir assembly. Disconnected the wax motor. Replaced it with the new motor. Replaced the new o-ring. Done. The hardest part was finding out why it was not working and how to fix it. Google for a long time in order to find some idea what to do. Then took the door apart to see the reservoir and the wax motor. After that, it was pretty easy. HTH

I opened the dishwasher door, then used the Torx bit to remove the screws all around the edges of the door, and removed the inner part of the door. Then I removed the long metal plate at the part of the door farthest front (with the door open) and the large black plastic housing. The metal plate then became a useful tool to brace at an angle between the door and the body of the dishwasher. This not only held the spring-loaded door down, it also held the inner part of the door up against the body of the dishwasher.
One nut held the latch assembly to the door; I removed it with the nut driver.
On the latch assembly, there are two small plastic catches that keep the latch from sliding out, I held those out of the way with a blade screwdriver and slid the latch out.
The new latch then snapped into place, and I assembled the door again in the reverse sequence of disassembly.

received new basket without a basket handle; had to remove handle from old basket & attach it to new basket; took 2 separate tries to remove old handle & each try took about an hour; used screwdriver & pliers but had to be careful not to break handle; eventually used dimes to pry open & hold the attached sections of the handle open in order to free the handle from the old basket; we sure hope the new basket lasts a lot longer than the 2 years that the old basket lasted before it broke.

The repair was very easy. The door gasket was a little short, but I gently streched it to the proper length. I replaced the other parts as a precaution as some others said they were really the source of the original leak. It went very smoothy and NO MORE LEAKS.

Remove the lower panel by taking out the 2 screws on top and 2 at the bottom of the panel. To diagnose the problem, verify that there is water supplied from the valve under the sink to the water supply valve under the DW. This can be done by turning off the valve under the sink, disconnecting the copper supply line under the DW then turning on the valve under the sink to see if water passes through the line.

The float switch is located on the left front (as you face the DW). This is activated by the float in the tub. Check to be certain that the float is not restricted. The contact point on the switch is a spring loaded plunger. It should depress as the float rises and pop back out as the float returns to its low point.

Turn off the circuit breaker for the DW. To remove the switch, pull off the two electric leads from the switch. Mark the top lead with a piece of tape. Then remove the one philips screw. Replace the switch by reversing the procedure. Note that you have aligned the float contact point with the float.

I recieved a different part than was in the picture and description that I ordered, and was billed twice for it. I wasn't able to fix my dishwasher

Simply had to replace the clips in the correct position. Would have been a five minute job if I had noticed which way around the old parts went before removing them from the dishwasher to find replacements. It's amazing hoe many permutations there were before it all fit together perfectly.

We had tried to use dish washer cleaners, and they would work for a time, but we started spending more money on cleaner than we wanted. I ordered and then I replaced the lower spray arm. It took a little effort to get the top screw off, due to hard water deposits. The new one went on very easily, just screwed right in like the old one. It's working great and I really don't mind not getting a new one or paying for a service call!!!

i removed the bottom spindle inside of the washer compartment. laid the pieces out in order of which they were removed. found the impeller was busted where it attaches to the shaft of the motor. screw was missing but found it laying in the bottom (there is a screen that filters the water as it drains). replaced impeller and put parts back together in order. good as new.

Unscrewed bottom panel. I could see right spring in proper position, left spring lying on floor, and broken linkage. Ordered part from partselect.com. To install, had to unscrew dishwasher attachment to counter, loosen leveling legs, pull it out a bit, then could replace linkage and reattach spring, retighten leveling legs, then push back in and replace screws and bottom panel.

First I replaced the soap door grommet -- door still leaked. Then I went for the really expensive part ($40) -- the door gasket. The old one came right out and the new one went right in -- 15 minutes tops -- and the door no longer leaked.

Thanks to all the previous posters for their hints.