MDB9601AWB Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Peeled off the old foam strip, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, let dry completely, applied new foam strip,replaced door interior done I wish repairing relationships with fiance and kids were one tenth this easy.

after reading a article on problems the logic one was frist the door. Order the part ,took off the inter panel with star slot (10)exposed the handle and switch. Removed it, abit hard at frist,then replacement went in easy , the washer worked.
I guess I was lucky because on the other side of handle similar type of part thats maytag for you.

remove 11 screws, remove old latch after disconnecting electrical wires, connect wires to new latch assembly, and replace 11 door screws. Easy breezy.

The big problem is that you cannot purchase the wheels only. I found that out after ordering the rack track because that looked like what I needed. But it didn't come with the wheels. So I returned it. Then I went to the basement and found things in my junk boxes and fixed it without purchasing the complete parts. Cost: 10 cents for two nuts vs $60 for the required parts.

Spent 1 hr following video. Difficulty was taking part apart & attaching new latch handle to latch assembly. Called PS tel support & spoke w/Breanna who was patient & tried her best to coach me. Sent photos to her via email to show what part looked like. Her boss discovered latch was attached upside down. Tried very hard to reattach in the correct direction. To no avail. Was advised to call Whirlpool tech. Instead, contacted handyman to complete repair.

The first tine pivot broke and parts select sent me out A NEW ONE RIGHT AWAY. THE NEW ONE WENT RIGHT IN. FOR THE LATCH ASSEMBLY I SIMPLY REMOVED THE SCREWS AROUND THE DOOR AND TOOK OFF THE OLD LATCH AND PLUGGED THE NEW IN PUT BACK THE SCREWS AND THE JOB WAS DONE. IT ONLY TOOK ME AROUND 10 MINUTES.

First turned off power to dishwasher. Then, I removed all the screws on the dishwasher door. Removed old plastic door latch from wire assembly piece. Pressed on latches for square small wire boxes connected to wire assembly piece to be able to handle wire assembly plastic piece without attachment to dishwasher. Tried to snap door handle to wire assembly plastic piece, but didn't seem to fit - was too tight. Checked for discussion online and found that it required heavy pressure to snap in place. Used pliers to clamp down on outer plastic on wire assembly piece to squeeze fit door latch plastic hooks in place. This was difficult, but with heavy pressure finally managed to snap in outer hooks. Then with difficulty snapped in inner hooks. Was afraid of breaking new plastic piece, but all worked out well. Door has never opened and closed so well!!

It was very easy to install, took maybe 5 mins if that, and works like a charm -

*Remove "caps" from ends of the slide rails by pressing in the tab, this will allow you to remove the rack entirely -

*Remove the rack from main dishwasher body -

*Remove original torx screws -

*Remove the assembly, which comes apart in 2 sections, and note location as you do it ( I counted how many "rungs" from the nearest corner -

*Keeping the "inner" section, replace the "outer" section with the new piece -

*Fit the new piece and the original piece back together with the rack in between -

*Screw the torx screws (which you kept right?) back in -

*Slide the rack back intothe slide rails -

*Replace the end caps on the rails -

***Et voila! you're done, and happy to not be ripped....again.

Many outfits in my area would NOT sell the part and wanted to come install it themselves for as much as $250, what creeps!!

Any housewife could and should do this, and although I'm pretty handy, this is very definitely the kind of thing homeowners should do themselves if for no other reason than to have the satisfaction of knowing they didn't get ripped off by callous and immoral repair services.

All i had to do was ....first unplug the dishwasher,then remove 10 of the Torx head screws on the inside of the door.(from the top down)
With that done i could open the cover without taking it off. then unplug the switches,and replace the new handle.
screw the cover back in place.
done! piece a cake!
MD
PS (don't forget to plug it back in)

Simple. Unscrew the old one, replace with the new one.
The best part- Online said it would take 5-7 days to recieve thru the mail. It arrived the very next day!!!!

Read the Q & A, watched the videos and tried not to drop any screws into the wash tub. Walter from Tucson, AZ made a great point about not overtightening any screws that bed into plastic.

Removed top tray. Removed old wash arm (rotating) and installed new one using a screw driver.

Manualy un-snapped station docking (w/flapper) and removed. Snapped in new one.

Accumulator was as easy as just removing srews and replacing the part. The Float I broke by accident and was more complicated to replace required 2 people to manage parts.
Dishes finally coming out clean!

First of all, rather then spending the 44 dollars on the main door seal simply cut yours in halve and trim a quarter of an inch from the disintegrated ends and use superglue and glue these ends together. this glued end will now be up top and in the middle and new clean ends will be down in the corners. next I removed the plastic door panel using a torxhead screwdriver, I just stuck the new inner foam pad on the old one. Then I glued rubber washers to the inner frame about 1/8 thick in the top 2 corners only. Finally I reattached the plastic door being careful not to tighten the torx head bolts just tight enough. It's dry and working good.

First, we removed all of the screws around the perimeter of the interior door panel and lifted it up. (we didn't take it completely off because that would have required disconnecting wires so we just held it up out of the way.)

Second, the plastic on the latch assembly was broken so that part came out fairly easily. The hard part was disconnecting the metal prongs that plug it in to the door control wires. We tried everything--prying, pulling--and finally got all three of us in there. One pulled on the latch end of the prongs, the other pulled on the door wiring end of the prongs, and I squeezed the prongs in-between with needle nose pliers. This broke the prongs on the latch side, which was fine since we were replacing the entire latch (the directions in the service manual we downloaded didn't give any indication that disconnecting the prongs would be difficult--I feel like there must be a trick to it, but breaking the prongs worked fine too!)

Third, we plugged in the prongs of the new latch--went in easily!--and popped the new latch into place in the door. It wasn't held securely, probably because of the broken plastic, but we replaced the inner door and screwed it in place, and when we shut the door it worked.