MDB7601AWW Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

I turned off the electricity at the circuit breaker. Sitting in a chair in front of the opened dishwasher with the partially opened door resting on my knees, I removed the 10 screws lining the inside of the door (setting them in order on the cabinet above -- 2 are different length so this helps keep them in order.
I tilted the inner cover on the door up (which is what the screws had been holding). With the door not fully open because it was on my knees, I was able to position the cover so that I did not have to remove the connection to the soap dispenser.
The two middle screws removed earlier were the screws that held the latch in place, so the assembly was already loose at this point. I put a black mark on the assembly to mark the side that the black wires were attached. Then with the pliers removed the plugs that were connected to the switches on either side of the assembly. Then marked the replacement assembly with the black mark on the same side as the one removed. I attached the plugs to the the replacement assembly using the black mark as reminder for which side was which.
I lined up the latch on the door where it goes, lowered the lid (lifting the lower edge over the base a little), lined up and started the latch screws (middle 2), then started all of the other screws and then tightened them all. Closed the lid and tested the latch. It was closing correctly now. I turned on the electricity and tested to make sure all was now working properly.

Had to purchase complete rack adjuster for forty dollars instead of roller assembly or, even better, an axle for five dollars because Maytag wants to gouge us. Anyway, removed rack from washer, removed screws holding plastic cover on adjuster, removed adjuster from rack, replaced with new part and re-assembled. Be sure the spring steel part is in cover. FYI part was correct and shipped quickly. Thanks.

I pulled the dishwasher out from under the countertop. It was quit easy to get to in the lower left front corner of the appliance. I loosened up the bracket that was holding the valve in place. Removed the wires, and taped and ID them so that I would know which one went where. Removed the hose clamp, pulled the hose off and removed the old valve. Put the new one back in just as I removed the old one in the same order. It was a snap! This is not the first time I have used PartSelect! Our evaporate fan went out on our refrigerator a couple years ago, replaced that. A shelf broke in our refrigerator twice, each one different at different times bought both from Part Select. This is the first place I look for help with repairs! I at least attempt to save money, then if it's too difficult I will hire a repairman. So Far, PartSelect has saved me a lot of money on doing it myself! Thanks PartSelect for making small repairs easy to tackle yourself, along with reasonable prices for parts!

if you have a screw driver with the Star end it is a matter of minutes to do the repair. Simply undo the roller guide keepers at the end of the rails and remove the top shelf. Once this is done place the shelf on it's side and remove the 6 screws holding the roller assembly and reinstall the new assembly. Slide rollers into each guide at both sides and reinstall the guide keeper.

Wallah......

First I opened the breaker on the dishwasher removing power from the unit. Then I removed the Torx head screws on the cover on the back side of the front door. Then I pulled off the stainless steel sheet metal panel which exposed the door latch. Then I unplugged the electrical connectors to the two micro switches on the assembly, next I plugged in the connectors on the new latch assembly and postioned the latch back on the mounting holes. Replaced the stainless steel sheet metal and put the screws back.

First and foremost, turn off the power to the dishwasher at the breaker panel. Next, open the door and remove all of the Torx screws along the door edge, except the bottom two. The inner skin will open enough, and there is sufficient slack in the wires, to change out the latch assembly without completely removing the whole inner door skin. Next, remove the wire harness plug from the right switch and then insert it onto the right switch of the new assembly. Do the same with the wires for the left switch. Note, you may need a pair of pliers to remove the wire connector from the switches. Place the switch back in place, lining up the screw holes properly, and replace all of the Torx screws. Turn the breaker back on and you are done.

Not only could I get the part from PartSelect.com quicker than I could from Sears, the total cost with shipping was the same as Sears wanted for just he part!

Peeled off the old foam strip, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, let dry completely, applied new foam strip,replaced door interior done I wish repairing relationships with fiance and kids were one tenth this easy.

Spent 1 hr following video. Difficulty was taking part apart & attaching new latch handle to latch assembly. Called PS tel support & spoke w/Breanna who was patient & tried her best to coach me. Sent photos to her via email to show what part looked like. Her boss discovered latch was attached upside down. Tried very hard to reattach in the correct direction. To no avail. Was advised to call Whirlpool tech. Instead, contacted handyman to complete repair.

The first tine pivot broke and parts select sent me out A NEW ONE RIGHT AWAY. THE NEW ONE WENT RIGHT IN. FOR THE LATCH ASSEMBLY I SIMPLY REMOVED THE SCREWS AROUND THE DOOR AND TOOK OFF THE OLD LATCH AND PLUGGED THE NEW IN PUT BACK THE SCREWS AND THE JOB WAS DONE. IT ONLY TOOK ME AROUND 10 MINUTES.

The big problem is that you cannot purchase the wheels only. I found that out after ordering the rack track because that looked like what I needed. But it didn't come with the wheels. So I returned it. Then I went to the basement and found things in my junk boxes and fixed it without purchasing the complete parts. Cost: 10 cents for two nuts vs $60 for the required parts.

First, I recommend asking PartSelect for help to insure you have correct part. They tell me the pictures on the web site are provided by Maytag and are copywrited so they can't change them. The pictures are incorrect and misleading. However, it's a known problem, so the PartSelect people will steer you in the right direction. Bottom line in my case, I needed the lower cost part that included more pieces (counter-intuitive so I was glad I called). Got the right part the first time in about 3 days regular shipping.

As far as install, you need a "Torx" screwdriver (screw heads have a star-like pattern) to remove the screws along the inside of the door. From there, the old latch is accessible and easy to remove. As others have mentioned, the hardest part is removing the wire harnesses on either side of the latch. They have a slide on compression clip holding them on, and I think that time and ambient moisture must cause them to get stuck very tightly. I originally thought there was something locking them on, but in the end, I was able to pull and wiggle them loose with by applying slight inward pressure on the prongs with long nose pliers. You have to be careful not to damage the parts when attempting to pull them apart. It's nice that the part I ordered includes new switches, so if I caused any damge removing the old ones, it didn't matter. Just take extra care on the side with the wires and plastic connectors, since those parts aren't included and are more involved to replace if you damage them.

Overall, a very simple repair. The repair stories from others on the site were very helpful and gave me confidence when I ran into the small snag mentioned, since others had the same problem. Hopefully the additional detail I've provided on that issue will help fill any gaps.

remove 11 screws, remove old latch after disconnecting electrical wires, connect wires to new latch assembly, and replace 11 door screws. Easy breezy.

All i had to do was ....first unplug the dishwasher,then remove 10 of the Torx head screws on the inside of the door.(from the top down)
With that done i could open the cover without taking it off. then unplug the switches,and replace the new handle.
screw the cover back in place.
done! piece a cake!
MD
PS (don't forget to plug it back in)

It was very easy to install, took maybe 5 mins if that, and works like a charm -

*Remove "caps" from ends of the slide rails by pressing in the tab, this will allow you to remove the rack entirely -

*Remove the rack from main dishwasher body -

*Remove original torx screws -

*Remove the assembly, which comes apart in 2 sections, and note location as you do it ( I counted how many "rungs" from the nearest corner -

*Keeping the "inner" section, replace the "outer" section with the new piece -

*Fit the new piece and the original piece back together with the rack in between -

*Screw the torx screws (which you kept right?) back in -

*Slide the rack back intothe slide rails -

*Replace the end caps on the rails -

***Et voila! you're done, and happy to not be ripped....again.

Many outfits in my area would NOT sell the part and wanted to come install it themselves for as much as $250, what creeps!!

Any housewife could and should do this, and although I'm pretty handy, this is very definitely the kind of thing homeowners should do themselves if for no other reason than to have the satisfaction of knowing they didn't get ripped off by callous and immoral repair services.

Simple. Unscrew the old one, replace with the new one.
The best part- Online said it would take 5-7 days to recieve thru the mail. It arrived the very next day!!!!