MDB9150AWS Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

When I tried to remove the hold down screw for the impellar, the impellar broke in half. I actually did npt need to go this far with disassembly as the problem was with water being retained in the rinse arm assembly and stagnating. This was due to calcium buildup clogging the drain holes. Clearing the holes resolved the problem.

Just slide the old upper dishrack forward to the end. The stops on either slide must be removed . Only difficulty was getting the plastic stops to open up. We used a thin metal knivre to wedge into the opening.

Un screwed the dishwasher from the underside of my kithcen counter. Removed the copper water hose(after turning off water valves). PUlled the dishwasher from under counter to expose the hinges. Hung the new linkage on the hinge. Stetched the spring from flange on the bottom of the dishwasher to the new linkage. Reattached hose and reconnected the unit to counter top. Job done.

da basket don't come with rections so you gota figer it out yor sef. I tride pullen the handle off and it work then I tride pushen it on the other basket and it work to. Then i tride swapen dem and it work so thats how ya doit

Removed 2 each screws from counter top. Pulled washer out 1'. Installed springs and linkage by hand with door closed. Push washer back reinstalled 2 screws.

Looked into the problem, cleaned the sprayers out to no avail. Looked at drawings of dishwasher and noticed it had a filter. That seemed to be the next easiest thing to check. Removed the lower spray arm with channel locks, then removed the filter housing by removing 6 screw, removed old filter, replaced with new and reversed the above steps for re-assembly.

Piece of cake!

I pulled the unit out its bay and saw that one spring was missing. I looked up the parts online and ordered replacement springs and linkages. Using the existing spring and linkage as models, I easily installed the new parts. I ordered spare parts in case the other linkage broke.

They just snapped in to place. Once I realized where they went. They are not the exact rollers needed but will do until I get the right ones. The rack will not come out as far as it should because of the difference. Other than that....easy.

Unscrewed the 2 screws securing the dishwasher to the counter. Unscrewed 2 front panels. Shut off water valve. Disconnected water intake. Pulled dishwasher out 5 inches. Removed broken spring, replaced it. Checked the door movement. Scrubbed the door rubber gasket of calcium deposits & debris. Replaced the Teflon tape on the water intake. Reconnected water hose. Opened water valve. Checked for leaks at the water intake location. Ran 1 dishwasher cycle again for leaks. Pushed the dishwasher back under the counter. Secured the 2 screws on top of the dishwasher to the counter. Reattached the 2 front panels and enjoyed a glass of wine.

On my dishwasher, one linkage broke, making the door feel heavy to raise and lower. Because there are two door springs, one on either side, I decided to replace both plastic linkages even though only one broke, because it would only be a matter of time before the other plastic link failed and I would have to do the repair all over again. Remove the 2-piece panel at the bottom front of the dishwasher. It's held on by four hex-head screws which also have slots for a Philips screwdriver. The springs can now be seen on both sides of the door, at the bottom. Remove two screws that anchor the dishwasher to the underside of the counter. Gently ease the dishwasher a short distance out from its under-counter recess, just far enough to gain access to the springs. Make sure not to put any excessive strain on the water inlet tubing, drain hose or electric power cable by pulling the dishwasher out too far. Close and latch the dishwasher door so that the springs are in minimum tension. Note the slot that the linkages hook into on the door levers. Hook the small end of the spring into the hole in the metal bracket. Slide the linkage onto the other end of the spring. Stretch the spring to slide the free end of the linkage onto the door lever and into the appropriate slot. Push the dishwasher back into its recess and replace all screws and panels.

Turn off power, remove the lower kick plate and lower trim panel with the nutdriver. The float switch is in the front on the left. Remove the two wires on the switch. Use a #1 philips to remove the one screw holding the switch to the frame. Remove switch. Install wires on new switch and install switch using the screw. Be sure to get the plastic float arm under the switch. Raise float and observe the switch clicking on and off. Replace lower plates and restore power.

I took off bottom front and kick plate. Retrieved the spring which had flown to the rear of the unit. Cannot pull unit out because the trim piece on the counter top was put in after the unit was screwed to the underside of the counter. So... I noticed that you could move the plate the bottom of the spring hooked into by unscrewing a long quarter inch hex head bolt and bring the plate forward where I could hook the bottom of the spring into the plate. I had first hung the door spring linkage on the door (looked at the opposite side to see how it was arranged) then onto the top of the spring. The difficult part was keeping the bottom of the spring in its hole in the plate while moving the plate back in place. After I got it past the flange where the bolt screwed in, I screwed the bolt in and pulled the plate back to match the opposite side distance which put tension on the spring. The door now works. I am fortunate to have my husband's tools available.

I removed the four screws that hold the front kick plates on. Then, I removed the hose clamp (on the right side of the pump that secures the top shower hose assembly to the pump assembly. Then I pulled the dishwasher out, and pulled out the four black snap clips that hold the insulation in place. I then folded the insulation back and reached inside the dishwasher to disconnect the hose assembly. On the top spray arm is a nut that is easily removed without any special tools.
Be sure to save the rubber washer unless you order a new one along with the top shower hose.
Overall, an easy fix. Saved about $100.00 by doing it myself.

When the (overpriced) replacement silverware basket arrived (rapidly, within a few days of my ordering) I was shocked and angry that the handle for the basket was not included--nor were instructions included as to how to remove the old handle from the old basket in order to fasten it to the new basket. Therefore, I spent a considerable amount of time trying to pry the handle off the old one, which was quite tricky: There were four slots which held the plastic "catches", and they had to be pushed out simultaneously. I had to fiddle with it for at least a half hour, trying various implements, until I found that I could push them out simultaneously by wedging butter knives into the slots and then easing the handle off. (I was careful to position myself so that I wouldn't slip and stab myself with the blunt butter knife.) After that, the handle snapped fairly easily into the new basket's slots.
In the end, while I was glad to be able to recycle the old handle, I wish that the basket and shelves were made more durably so they wouldn't have to be replaced, or that they could be replaced at a more reasonable price.

removed old and broken and replaced. The best part was, the turn around time from partselect. The fastest delivery of anything I ordered that part a 2 in the afternoon and had it the NEXT day, without specifiying any extra rush shipping. Right part too! Amazing job! Thanks