MDB9150AWS Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Maytag repair man 1 year ago caused most of the damage after I took the front cover off - the repairman broke off most of the screws holding the front panel in place leaving me to replace the front assembly.

The repair was easy - save yourself and do it yourself vs paying someone alot of money to only make it worse in the long run...

Figured out that the only thing that could be causing this was a bad inlet valve. Repair was really easy. Didn't even have to pull machine out from under cabinet. First removed kick plate. Then placed towel under the old valve. Undid the power connections and water lines (in and out). removed the to screws holding the valve to the body of the washer. With the valve free, removed the brass elbow and installed it on the new valve. Reinstalled the valve and all connections. Works like a charm.

I took the bottom rack out of the dishwasher. I then took the filter guard and bottom spray arm out. Then I took the screws out of the filter guard to get to the rinse arm. I took the filter guard off, took the old rinse arm out and put in the new one. Have to make sure it is completely resting inside there. Then I put the filter guard back on. Put the screws back into the filter guard, put the two arm seals down around the rinse arm, put the bottom arm spray with guard back into the notches, put the screw top on so it can screw back in and the dishwasher is ready to go. Just make sure that you don't have a lot of soap built up, it will not clean the dishes right nor will the spray arms move. I had to call my appliance person out, and I have so much built up from soap, that I had to order a new filter guard and top and bottom spray jets. I now know to switch back to powder or liquid soap, because the tablets make a huge built up of soap... I have these parts on order now. In the meantime, I am cleaning out the jets with dishwasher magic and vinegar while I am waiting for my new parts. I now know how to put things back together so when I have this happen again I will know how to do it to save me the 63.00 office call and parts. I am happy that I know where to get my parts when I need them or break them by accident on trying to put my dishwasher back together again. Thanks.

I did not move the dishwasher out. It is a fairly tight space underneath, but the water inlet valve is located toward the front, so it wasn't too bad. The steps were:

1) unplug the power and turn off the water to the dishwasher.
2) remove the 2 wire connectors.
3) use the nutdriver to remove the 2 screws that hold the valve to the side of the dishwasher.
4) use a wrench (5/8") to remove the nut where the water goes into the valve. This takes some patience since you can't turn the wrench very far in the tight space.
5) remove the water outlet hose by using pliers to squeeze together the clamp and move it up the hose. Then twist the valve to free the hose and remove it from the valve. The nibs on the clamp are small and take a little time to get them squeezed together. If the hose has been on there a long time, you will have to twist the valve a few times to free it up.
6) now you will have to remove the sleeve that the nut was screwed onto. I had to take the valve to my vise to hold it. Then it wasn't too hard to remove.
7) use teflon tape before you reassemble. Just go in the reverse order.
8) hope there isn't a leak. Mine didn't.

The new water inlet valve seems to have fixed the problem!

It takes about 5 min. to disassembled the lower jet system. As you disassemble, make sure you clean all the filters, and asses the integrity of the filters. If they are broken, you need to replace. Once you get to the impeller, you know it is broken because the lower part is loose. To replace you need to firmly hold the impeller as you unscrew the top screw. If the housing gasket is broken or too loose, replace. Otherwise you will have leak. Refer to your models diagram for proper assembly.

Took off old, snapped in new.

Open the door all the way. Remove the 7 screws along the perimeter with a Torx screwdriver. Then close the door. Remove the two screws at the bottom of the side of the outside of door panel with a phillips. With the palms of your hand flat on the panel slide the panel up about 1/2 inch and it falls toward you. Follow these steps in the opposite direction to install the new door. I did however replace the two phillips screws last.

I aligned the V-shaped tabs on the inner side of the part with the slots in the mating part and simply pulled the old part out (it was already disengaged from the wheels in the metal rail). I then inserted the new part into the slots. One side went in well, but the other side required the part to be bowed slightly to match up the V-shaped tab with the slot. Then the hard part was getting the wheels in position to snap them on. Once in position, it took a bit of effort to engage the snaps in each wheel. I was afraid of breaking the new part. These snaps are very stiff and even with the notch between them there isn't any give, but I was able to apply enough constant, steady pressure to finally get them to snap in without breaking.

Removed four screws on bottom plate. Located repair site on outside of cabinet. Had to hook spring on bottom rear plate by brail. Then attached linkage to spring and ran stiff wire through linkage to raise it above arm. Called a man with stronger but larger hands had him stretch the spring while I guided linkage over arm and into the slot using the wire. Removed stiff wire with needle nose pliers and reassembled front plate.

threw out the broken and put in a fantastically improved new one. very easy (would have done it sooner if I'd known it was that simple to find it online and order it) thanks

Was extremely easy to remove that existing rackings(upper and lower), install the new racks and snap in the new spray tower. It now looks like we have a new dishwasher. We are hoping that it will last another 10+ years.
We will recommend your site to friends.

I removed the door panel by unscrewing the 12 allen screws and found that the handle hinges broke & latch assembly locking gear was worn down...just normal wear & tear. this diagnostic process just took 45 minutes...remove the door, identify the problem, remove the parts, reassemble the door. I then ordered the parts online.

Once the parts arrived, it took me less than 45 minutes to re-remove the door, reconnect the 4 wires to latch assembly, snap the latch handle into place, and reassemble the door.

I took apart the lower spray arm apart and removed the 6 hex screws. I noticed that the little plastic circle thing had been ripped off the dome-shaped thing. I replaced the part and put it all back together.

Remove bottom rack. Unscrew the retaining ring on the wash arm, remove along with wash nozzle. Unscrew the eight retaining screws on the filter cover and remove (be carefull not to lose the two plastic bushings). Pick off and set aside the wash fan. Remove the six retaining bolts on the discharge housing. Pull up and remove the discharge housing. Remove the gasket (buy a new one, cheap and easier) with small screwdriver. Push gasket into new assembly. Under plastic nut with pliers and take off the plastic bushing that the wash arm rides on. Install new housing assembly with the parts that was taken off in the reverse order. Be carfull when installing the filter cover to make sure the drain outlet is aligned or mated to drain. Gently push down until the filter in down and continue reassembly.


(PS: Never use Sears parts, they extrembly slow as well unable to deliver on time).
Wash your dishes

I took off the front bottom panel for an easy access. The valve is located on the left. Shut off water to the dishwasher. Remove the bracket that holds the valve. Remove hoses and 2 wires on the valve switch. Install new valve by revesing the steps above.