GDU20JV-CN Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Unscrewed the inside door panel. Removed the reservoir assembly. Disconnected the wax motor. Replaced it with the new motor. Replaced the new o-ring. Done. The hardest part was finding out why it was not working and how to fix it. Google for a long time in order to find some idea what to do. Then took the door apart to see the reservoir and the wax motor. After that, it was pretty easy. HTH

I removed the old door gasket and thoroughly cleaned the track. I placed the new door gasket in place- no problems.
I had to remove the 7 screws from around the door to access the old, crumbled gasket. This was accessed by removing 2 screws with a socket wrench. The old gasket pulled out and the new one slipped right in.
No more leaks!

Everything is straight forward with the following two exceptions; The threads that hold the motor fan to the impeller are left hand, and it takes a special tool to remove the top rotating assembly. It took about 4 hours to figure out what to do, and make the tool . I put it back together in about 20 minutes.

Turned off power. Removed lower, two panels. Turned power back on and started dishwasher. Saw leak from 7' drain hose. Turned off power, disconnected hose, ordered new hose, installed on washer and routed back to garbage disposal. Turned on power, checked for leaks (none) and replaced 2 front, lower panels.

first I turned off the water to the dishwasher, and turned the power off for the dishwasher.
removed the 4 screws from bottom panel
then removed the 2 screws from the bottom of the counter,
at this point I could pull the dishwasher out. then figured out where the part went and attached.
pushed the dishwasher back and lined up the holes under the counter, put those in first, the put the bottom panel back on, turned the water back on, and flipped the breaker switch.
Reading the other stories really did help me get some idea of what needed to be done

The problem was the rubber end on the upper shower head pipe at the pump. Not to hard . Slide dishwaser half way ouy the ptpe is on the right side.The bottom end is is just a clamp the top drops in from the top, inside there is a nut above the upper shower head. You can unsrew the nut with your fingers, it is right above the upper shower head.There it a washer at the top of the pipe that should be replaced that doesnot come with the pipe

Unscrewed bottom panel. I could see right spring in proper position, left spring lying on floor, and broken linkage. Ordered part from partselect.com. To install, had to unscrew dishwasher attachment to counter, loosen leveling legs, pull it out a bit, then could replace linkage and reattach spring, retighten leveling legs, then push back in and replace screws and bottom panel.

Once I removed the inside panel from the door replacing the switch was pretty simple. completed the job in less than twenty minutes.

This was the third appliance I have repaired with the help of Parts Select in the last three months.

Removed covers on the bottom of dishwasher so I could get access to area. Measured no voltage on water inlet pump. removed to wires from foat switch, one screw to remove float switch. When I pressed the float switch button to activate the switch would not move. Ordered and replaced the switch. 30 minutes tops

First I replaced the soap door grommet -- door still leaked. Then I went for the really expensive part ($40) -- the door gasket. The old one came right out and the new one went right in -- 15 minutes tops -- and the door no longer leaked.

Thanks to all the previous posters for their hints.

easy repair. The foam has to go over some wires but if you stretch it alittle as you place it all goes well

I removed lower cover panel. Removed two wires. (one on each end of the element. Removed two nuts on the element. Took out old part. Put new part in and reversed procedure. Works fine now.

Initially thought this issue was the dishwasher door gasket, but after reading post on this site about door latch grommet, removed 7 "hex screws" pulled inside of dishwasher door away and traced water from leak back to soap dispenser latch/grommet area so instead of ordering door gasket ordered door latch and grommet. Replaced grommet only (in addition to 7 "hex screws" had to remove 2 additional screws to get to it) which took some maneuvering. Re-aligned grommet and latch, inserted and tightened all screws that had been removed. Works great - no more water leaking!

The problem is a worn seal ring. That ring is inside the lower spray arm's spray nozzle support assembly. The wash arm spins on that assembly.

I unscrewed the lower spray nozzle popup, from the wash arm support. That part, from which the extending spray nozzle rotator pops out, simply unscrews, by hand, from the wash arm support. Then I could lift off the wash arm itself to get it out of the way for the next step.

With the wash arm removed, I could then gently pry off the flat filter cover which was underneath the wash arm (the filter cover is simply clipped on. Use a screwdriver).

Now, reaching inside where the that popup spray nozzle was screwed on, you can see and/or feel a tall skinny plastic piece in the center of it, which actually screws that wash arm support onto, well, the rest of the dishwasher.

With that "screw" removed by hand, I removed the wash arm support.

Inside that wash arm support the old ring seal can be removed and the new one inserted.

Simply reverse the process to re-assemble.

Note that it's hard to determine where, exactly, to put that ring seal, inside the wash arm support. But it seemed to me it didn't really matter as long as it was just in there.

The repair was very easy. The door gasket was a little short, but I gently streched it to the proper length. I replaced the other parts as a precaution as some others said they were really the source of the original leak. It went very smoothy and NO MORE LEAKS.