MDB6657AWW Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

I had two problems with the dishwasher. The top basket was loose, but the main problem was a plastic part inside the bottom assembly.

The part was backordered, so I re-ordered it through Sears. They said it would arrive in two days. Theirs came in two weeks, and their customer service was terrible.

Your "backordered" part came in two days, even before it was supposed to come had the part not been back ordered. I am delighted with your customer service and your company.

The illustrations on your website were excellent. They helped us not only to identify the part, but to diagnose the problem.

This was my first purchase through your company and if I ever need parts again, there is absolutely no reason to go anywhere else.

You have an excellent company, and great website! I bookmarked your page for future purchases.

After I ruled out a hose blockage I looked in the washer.

Took the washer assembly apart, pretty straight forward, used the parts diagrams on this site for help. Found the drain impellor was jammed with glass and had lost a lot of its fins.

Found exactly what I needed here. Had it back together in less than an hour, and it seems to be working like new.

Diagnosed potential problem from scematic diagram found at Parts Select .Com by entering model #. It was very likely the inlet water solenoid. Tear down was simple: Turn off water, disconnect water lines to and from solenoid, disconnect two electric terminals and remove part by removing two screws from dishwasher chasis. Before you buy the new solenoid, unscrew the water inlet elbow from solenoid and check the filter/screen inside the solenoid to make sure it isn't clogged. Assuming it's not, order the replacement part and reinstall in reverse order. Be sure to use plumber's tape on screw connections to make sure there are no leaks..... Also for ease of acces, you'll need to turn the dishwaher down on it's front. Put towels down to cushion the front and keep the controls from contact with the floor. Good luck!!

The replacement of the spring linkage was simple - the pulling out and pushing in of the under-the-counter dishwasher was the difficult and time-consuming part. The repair of the part took less than a minute.

The actual repair -
1. Hook the linkage to the dishwasher door
2. Hook the spring to the dishwasher base
3. Hook the spring to the linkage.

Getting the dishwasher out to be able to make the repair involved:
1. Unscrewing the base panel (6 screws had to be removed)
2. Unscrewing the dishwasher from the counter (two screws)
3. Turning off the water supply
4. Disconnecting the inline water supply from the dishwasher.

Once the part was replaced, I had to return the dishwasher to its original position, which meant performing the four steps (in reverse) used to pull out the dishwasher.

removed screws from inside plate of dishwasher door. The assembly was hanging free (not clipped to the door). the old handle was easily removed, and the new one was clipped onto the assembly and put back into place. The screws were then replaced.

We had been noticing that the door was becoming increasingly more difficult to open. Extra force was needed. (that's probably why the handle broke in the first place). After the repair, the door opens much more easily.

This was probably the easiest repair we had ever had to do. Not only does the door operate much more smoothly, but we saved the cost of a service call.

After removing parts, cleaned both upper and lower spray arms, blew out lead to the upper arm, and started to install the new parts.

Unfortunately, the Pump Housing Filter was still cold (freezing weather during shipment and left at the front door) and when I started to bend it into shape it broke in two places. So I tolk the old filter and some Lime away and slowly cleaned it with soft brush to open 95% of the holes.
Once ready it was installed along with the other new parts and the dishwasher works very well.

Simple homeowner repair.

1) turned off power to dishwasher
2) removed each piece of pump assembly (one at a time) from inside the dishwasher. I had no repair manual and didn't know that by rotating the lock lever under the dishwasher, I could have easily removed the entire pump assembly as a unit.
3) Reassmebled the pump assembly using new parts and installed in dishwasher.
4) Reconnected hoses and electrical connection
5) Turned power back on
6) Washed dishes... it's as good as new!!!!

With a straight edge screwdriver I carefully removed the plastic end caps on the rack support glider-shelves, replaced the old rack with the new rack, and then reattached the end caps.

I felt better about ordering the part Online after having talked to a sales person since there were several racks from which to choose. She reassured me that I was ordering the correct part number. I am a woman and 62 years of age, and I was pretty sure this installation would be a no-brainer. I just wanted to make sure I had the right part for the job.

I unscrewed the door panel. removed the plastic cover protecting the dispenser. unscrewed the dispenser (6 screws). I removed the old dispenser and put the new one on and put it all back together. It was pretty easy.

First I installed the spray diverter,then I installed the discharge housing nut and tightened it down. Last I snapped on the spray diverter cap.

Took off bottom plate for access. Slid part that holds bottom of spring forward so I could reach it without pulling dishwasher out of position. Hooked spring to bottom attachment, then connected door spring linkage to holder that is attached to the dishwasher frame. Adjusted the tension with the tension screw and buttoned up bottom plate.

All that was broken on the old detergent dispenser was the door but the door can not be ordered without buying the whole detergent/rinse aid assembly. When I got the new item I just removed the old door and replaced it with the new door that I had taken off the new one. I still have the new detergent/rinse aid assembly that I can keep if I need to change it in the future.

The only tricky part was fixed by reading another post on this website -- removing the plastic endcaps on the steel sliding brackets. This is a necessary step before replacing the wheels because the bracket needs to slide between two fully installed wheels.

To remove the endcaps, you must push the flat end of the endcap (the side of the endcap facing you) sideways toward from the dish carriage, with your thumb. Once that slides sideways, the entire endcap can be easily pulled from the bracket. Not much force is required for either step in removing the endcap. If you look closely at the endcap, there is an arrow to show the direction in which to slide the flat portion.

The wheel can be bumped onto the wheel axle by placing a wooden block against the outside of the wheel and then applying a gentle tap of a hammer to the block. Use a flashlight to make sure the wheel hub rests against the washer tub sidewall.

1. Removed 4 screws holding latch and controls module to the door.

2. Went back to your site to check how to get the control module to come loose from the door. I gave it a good upward hit with my hand and it came off. There was wiring that prevented the module from coming completely free. But there was enough room to get to the latch.

3. Used a screwdriver to fish out the broken latch parts.

4. Inserted the new latch and gave it a tap to spring the pivot pins into place.

5. Replaced the 4 screws that hold the latch and control module to the door. Job done.

Figured out that the only thing that could be causing this was a bad inlet valve. Repair was really easy. Didn't even have to pull machine out from under cabinet. First removed kick plate. Then placed towel under the old valve. Undid the power connections and water lines (in and out). removed the to screws holding the valve to the body of the washer. With the valve free, removed the brass elbow and installed it on the new valve. Reinstalled the valve and all connections. Works like a charm.