MDBF750AWS Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

We took out old racks and installed the new ones. On another note, after ordering (or trying to order) parts from appliances older than 10 years old several times, I think manufacturers stop making parts after 10 years. So if you're thinking of replacing a part on an older appliance, try to look for it sooner than later.

First of all, rather then spending the 44 dollars on the main door seal simply cut yours in halve and trim a quarter of an inch from the disintegrated ends and use superglue and glue these ends together. this glued end will now be up top and in the middle and new clean ends will be down in the corners. next I removed the plastic door panel using a torxhead screwdriver, I just stuck the new inner foam pad on the old one. Then I glued rubber washers to the inner frame about 1/8 thick in the top 2 corners only. Finally I reattached the plastic door being careful not to tighten the torx head bolts just tight enough. It's dry and working good.

First, we removed all of the screws around the perimeter of the interior door panel and lifted it up. (we didn't take it completely off because that would have required disconnecting wires so we just held it up out of the way.)

Second, the plastic on the latch assembly was broken so that part came out fairly easily. The hard part was disconnecting the metal prongs that plug it in to the door control wires. We tried everything--prying, pulling--and finally got all three of us in there. One pulled on the latch end of the prongs, the other pulled on the door wiring end of the prongs, and I squeezed the prongs in-between with needle nose pliers. This broke the prongs on the latch side, which was fine since we were replacing the entire latch (the directions in the service manual we downloaded didn't give any indication that disconnecting the prongs would be difficult--I feel like there must be a trick to it, but breaking the prongs worked fine too!)

Third, we plugged in the prongs of the new latch--went in easily!--and popped the new latch into place in the door. It wasn't held securely, probably because of the broken plastic, but we replaced the inner door and screwed it in place, and when we shut the door it worked.

The part broke off a while ago, and I did not want to call a repair person. The machine still ran, so I ran it with the part missing - the glasses were not very clean, but the repair call was expensive...

I figured that I had a snowballs chance of finding the part number on a molded plastic piece with no numbers printed on it. Boy was I wrong. I was able to choose the part off of a schematic of my machine right on the website and it linked me to the right part order form, so I did not even have to go back and find it on a list.

When the part came, all I had to do was unclip the old mount- with my fingers- no tools, and snap in the new part.

A for maytag for making it easy to fix
A+ for PartSelect for making it so darn easy

Removed assembly holding the docking station to insure the passageway was clear. I reversed the flappers and noticed an improvement in cleaning then decided to order a new part. Installation was simple and the repair seems to have worked well.

I removed eight screws and installed the new parts. The replacement factory parts are better then the originals and the latch handle should not break again. Had I called for service it would have cost $149 (not incuding parts) just for them to show up to look at it and tell me that they need to order these same parts. Plus, I would have had to wait an addtional two weeks for them to order the parts and come back to do the repair since most service companies do not carry parts with them. Their parts are marked up and would have cost 30% more for the same factory parts I order from you. The parts including shipping were $36.30 and I had the repair completed in three days, including standard shipping time. Quite a savings! and very easy to complete the repair.

Thank you!

Who ever assembled the parts for shipment, put the latch on backwards and it was extremely hard to take the latch off of the main part. Now matter how hard I tried, I was unable to re-attach the latch until I used a file on the plastic insert to file off the inside edges until they fit. It does work now, but it could have been made much easier if they had simply positioned the latch in the correct position in the first place.

Remove all interior door panel screws with a torx head screwdriver (drill). Pull the interior panel up from the door far enough to access the switch assembly. Pull it out and remove the 2 electrical connectors from the old switch (using a small screw driver as a pry bar if needed). Remove the old switch and handle (that may be broken off and still in the door). Push the electrical connectors onto the new switch assembly, making sure the handle is down toward the opening and the connectors are on the same side as they came off of the old switch. Align the mounting screw holes of the switch with the threaded holes on either side of the switch. Push the interior panel back together and align the two holes with the switch holes (those 2 screws go through the door panel and the switch assembly). Replace the remaining interior panel screws. Done!

1 - Disconnect the electrical power
2 - Open the dishwasher door
3 - Use Allan wrench to remove the screws from the inside door panel
4 - Separate the inside pane from the door
5 - Remove the latch assembly
6 - Use a screw driver or pliers to remove the electrical connectors from the broken latch assembly
7 - Connect the electrical connectors to the replacement latch assembly
8 - Place the replacement latch assemble in the door
9 - Replace the inside door panel
10 - Replace the screws to secure the inside door panel
11 – Reconnect the electrical power

Open door fully. Remove all screws that hold inside panel to Front panel. Carefully remove Inside panel being VERY CAREFULL not to pull wiring out of door switch [top of door] and operator switch panel [also top of door]. Remove door switch, next remove 3 screws holding switch panel in place. Remove the top plastic section where switch panel mounts and set aside. Carefully remove green ground wire from bottem hinge for door. [right side] Next CAREFULLY remove front panel from hinges using EXTREME CARE not to let hinges "free fall" to the open position. Remove old panel. Install new panel in the reverse order as the old one was removed. DO NOT PANIC if you happen to pull the "ribbon cable' out of panel switch. It will plug back in very quickly and only one way. Just make sure it is "seated" in plug. The "key word" for this panel replacement is CAREFULLY.

Disconnect the power,open panel and remove screws with the exception of the two bottom ones. This allows the panel cover to be opened far enough to pull latch assembly clear.
Remove electrical contacts (2) and put defective unit aside. Connect new latch unit to both wire saddles,line up unit with proper holes and install two screws. Once fixed in place,install all other screws and switch power back on.Do a short test run to check for any leaks

If you have already figured out what the problem and the part number is, and have gotten this far, then you probably already know how to fix it and do not need instructions. But if you do, I took the following steps:

1) Use a #T20 star bit to remove the screws from the inner door panel. [Note: I would use a manual screw driver as opposed to a drill/driver, because you are less likely to accidentally strip the threads in the screw holes];

2) Lift the panel up and detach the wire harnesses from the metal receptacles attached to the old assembly.

3) Remove the old latch assembly, and then press the wire harnesses into the metal receptacles on the new assembly. [Note: You may have trouble getting the wiring harnesses out. If you pull hard enough you can get them off, but if you truly cannot, simply detach the metal receptacles from both the new and old latch assemblies and place the old metal receptacles on the new assembly with the wire harnesses still attached. If you choose this method, be careful with the little plastic retainer bars that secure the metal receptacles, they are pretty easy to break.];

3) Put the new latch assembly in its seating and re-secure the inner door panel. If you used a drill/driver before, I would really switch to a manual driver at this point.

4) Take the dishes out of your bathtub, and place them in the dishwasher.

5) Close the door back.

6) Stare.

Removed filter cover and filter and found the plastic chopper sleeve was stripped out. Followed instructions that came with the seal kit to replace it.

threw out the broken and put in a fantastically improved new one. very easy (would have done it sooner if I'd known it was that simple to find it online and order it) thanks

Removed screws on inside of door and replaced door latch, put screws back in and everything has worked fine.