CDB1500AWS3 Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed the screws around the top and halfway down the sides of the inside of the door. I found that you dont have to remove all 10 screws to access the assembly. Reach in and pulled out the assembly, there was enough slack to pull it out above the door. Pull the connectors off and slide the new ones on. Set the new assembly back in place, insert the 2 top screws first, and then the rest. That was it...very simple to change.

Ensure to order part # PS1559543, which is the complete assembly although the diagram doesn't show this, and not PS2100626 which doesn't include the handle. The new assembly is a different style than the original therefore you should replace the complete assembly.

This was an easy fix. Remove the eleven torque screws on the door and separate the inner door panel enough to remove the old assembly. Remove the wire connections from the door switches, reconnect to the new assembly, and reinstall the assembly and inner door panel.

Took out the six Torx head screw out of the door inner liner. Lifted the liner off. The handle mechanism was easily repaired by allowing the old part to fall out and snapping the new one in. It took me longer to find my Torx screwdriver than to fix the handle.

simply pulled out old one slowly inserted new one (stretching slightly) Presto done

I'm telling this story for my husband who is a pretty handy guy--I watched him do the repair. I had had someone out to look at the dishwasher and they said it would be $284 to fix this one little thing because you couldn't buy the one little part separately, you had to buy a whole new motor. Since the dishwasher is old, it didn't make sense to invest this much in it--might as well buy a new one for that kind of money. My husband did some looking around and found the part on your site and installed it himself. So the cost was under $40. The dishwasher is now working better than it had been for a while.

Turned off water at the shutoff valve. I did not turn off the power, but it is recommended you do so. I pulled the dishwasher out from under the cabinet and used a car jack to lift the front off of the ground. Disconnected the water supply and the rubber hose that fills the dishwasher tub. There are two 7mm screws that hold the water pump to the frame. If you do not have a 7mm socket, the easiest thing to use is an interchangeable screwdriver. When the screw bit is pulled out, the empty screwdriver is a 7mm. Used adjustable wrench to remove the brass water port for the supply line. Teflon tape to all connections and hooked everything back up. My supply line was old and was leaking, so I had to run out and get a new one, so that added about 30 minutes to what would have been maybe a 20 minute repair.

Removed the old one....slid in the new one.

UNSCREWED THE LOWER PART BY PLIERS AND HAND. COULDN'T UNDERSTAND WHY THE LOWER
PART WAS AVAILABLE BUT THE UPPER SPRAY ARM
WAS NO LONGER AVAILABLE WHEN THEY BOTH GO TOGETHER..

Actually, I did two repairs:
1) Ordered SUB 12002218 (Front Bowl Tine with Sleeves), part #9. Received it in the mail and made the repair in about five minutes. Then the next day the handle broke, which is repair 2.
2)Unscrewed all screws around the stainless doors (10 screws), then gently pulled up on the stainless plate at the point of the door latch. Pulled the old latch out, placed the new one in, then replaced the stainless cover and screws and it works good as new. These two repairs saved hundreds of dollars in repair costs by repair people.

Easy! Unscrewed panel, took off old latch, put on new. Took about five minutes.

unscrewed inner lining removed old ,put in new,replaced screws,done

The repair went easy. Just unscrewed the inside door panel and latch assembly. Then put the new one in. The only bad thing was I purchased the latch assembly with out the handle and found out mine was cracked. I looked back on-line and couldn't find just the handle. Everybody sold it with the latch assembly. I thought I would save the 2 bucks buying the assembly without the handle. But in the end the door seals tight and no water leaks.

After disassembling accumulator assembly looking for reasons that washer not washing properly, I noticed accumulator filter had failed. The plastic (or whatever material it is) covering the holes was torn in a couple of different holes. Realizing that this was not the reason for the loss of pressure I investigated a little more and found that water arm going into the docking station was extremely worn with much play. Water pressure was compromised because of it. I replaced filter and docking station and now its like a new dishwasher again. Saved a dishwasher from the landfill!

I had to remove the the old retainer from the old wash arm ,install it on the new arm by snapping it on then I snapped the arm with the retainer up top of dishwasher.

took 6 screws out around the top of the door.pulled the door apart popped the old handle out ,put the new handle on.snapped the handle assembly back in place.good idea to turn circuit breaker off to dishwasher.their or 2 wires on handle assembly.