CDB1500AWS3 Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

Actually, I did two repairs:
1) Ordered SUB 12002218 (Front Bowl Tine with Sleeves), part #9. Received it in the mail and made the repair in about five minutes. Then the next day the handle broke, which is repair 2.
2)Unscrewed all screws around the stainless doors (10 screws), then gently pulled up on the stainless plate at the point of the door latch. Pulled the old latch out, placed the new one in, then replaced the stainless cover and screws and it works good as new. These two repairs saved hundreds of dollars in repair costs by repair people.

Removed ~12 screws holding the inside liner onto the door. Pulled off the two connectors (one with black and one with white wires). Replace the handle and latch mechanism. Redid connections and replaced screws. Viola. (Be sure to buy BOTH the handle and latch mechanism- I don't see how you could easily install the handle on the mechanism myself, and what broken in my case was the black handle).

The upper arm assembly removes easily by unsnapping a plastic part or two that holds it in place.
Once the arm assembly is removed, you simply remove the screw that holds the arm on, replace the arm, and replace the screw. The key thing here is that you need a "star drive". This is a screw driver or bit that has a star shaped end. I don't know what size it is.

I removed the screws around the top and halfway down the sides of the inside of the door. I found that you dont have to remove all 10 screws to access the assembly. Reach in and pulled out the assembly, there was enough slack to pull it out above the door. Pull the connectors off and slide the new ones on. Set the new assembly back in place, insert the 2 top screws first, and then the rest. That was it...very simple to change.

Took out the six Torx head screw out of the door inner liner. Lifted the liner off. The handle mechanism was easily repaired by allowing the old part to fall out and snapping the new one in. It took me longer to find my Torx screwdriver than to fix the handle.

first, i removed the inner door panel exposing the latch assembly. i then disconnected the wiring to switches noting their locations. removed and replaced with new latch assembly, connected all wiring back to their corresponding switches, assembled the inner door panel and checked to make sure the latch was working properly.

Ensure to order part # PS1559543, which is the complete assembly although the diagram doesn't show this, and not PS2100626 which doesn't include the handle. The new assembly is a different style than the original therefore you should replace the complete assembly.

This was an easy fix. Remove the eleven torque screws on the door and separate the inner door panel enough to remove the old assembly. Remove the wire connections from the door switches, reconnect to the new assembly, and reinstall the assembly and inner door panel.

First, shut off the circuit that the dishwasher is on. Remove the 10 - 12 screws that secures the inside waterproof panel to the door. There are two electrical connections are either side of the handle (latch assembly) that need to be removed. No need to disconnect any other connections or reservoirs. The handle comes right out. Seat the new one in door front opening. Reconnect the electrical leads and reseat the interior panel. I would put in the 2 screws are either side of the handle first; then the 2 at the bottom on either side and then the remaining. This is a very easy DIY job.

After only 2 years, the Amana dishwasher door began to stick severely. If finally stuck so bad that I had to break the handle to get the door open. The replacement latch and handle fit perfectly and it only took a few minutes to get the screws off of the inner door panel to access the broken latch.

First I turned off the circuit / power to the dishwasher.
took out bottom rack
found correct torq bit [thats the kind of allen wrench] used with 1/4 exten. & ratchet wrench. Cracked loose all the screws then took them out.made a note this inner door panel fits inside outer door frame.Then lifted this out /away to access door latch which had electric wires to it.This whole assembly you pulled out from two outer pins that held it in place.Be careful and pull easy and evenly. Then I removed the latch and saw one side was broken. Installing new one you have to be easy and use some force, bend a touch to get both pins into holes. do one side then the other. Then partially tilt the whole assembly to get latch into door opening and push it down into where outer pins go into yokes to hold it in place.Then you must be careful when placing inner door panel back down into outer door.put all the screws in loose,then tighten. I was concerned about water leaking but had no trouble. It seems there is a seal across the bottom of that inner door and when you close door it butts up against another seal across opening on the bottom.Put bottom rack in, closed door, and turned on power. Gave it a rinse & hold and no leaks.

Removed inside cover.
removed part.
disconnected switches.
plugged wires onto new part.
placed part in.
put inside cover on and screwed down.
Note: be careful of the bottom of the inside cover.

First I removed the screws from the inside of the door exposing the latch assembly. Removed the old part and installed the new assembly. Don't screw it on to the door untill the cover is on again.
First I ordered only the latch without the handle. Found after opening it up the handle was broken on the inside so had to order the assembly. It's a piece of cake to install. If you're having touble opening the door don't think because the handle looks ok from the outside it's not broken.. probably is. Partselect.com is the greatest company to deal with. I'd recommend them to anyone and have.
Sam

Removed all the screws holding the inside panel of the door to the door itself. Lifted out the old broken door latch. Pulled the wire clips from the 2 switches located on either side if the door Latch assembly. This is a bit difficult. You have to keep working the wire clips back & forth; Up & down until the clips are free from the switch metal contacts. Reinstall the wire clips on the new door Latch assembly making sure you attach the black wires and white wires on the same side of the new latch assembly as on the one removed. Replace the new latch assembly aligning the mounting holes on the door with the new latch holes. Replace the inside panel aligning the holes and replace the screws. The screws were the star head type so you need a special driver bit. I used the box the latch came in the prop up the inside door panel while I worked.

Took a while to figure out what had to be done. Brackets have to go under the metal frame which involves dropping the compartment. That is done by removing the screws which are hidden under the door gasket. Once I knew what had to be done it was simple.

I pulled out the dishwasher enough to tip it back and put a block of wood underneath the front leveling foot.
This step gave me more room to work on the valve.
I removed the lower cover plates to expose the valve.
I disconnected the incoming water line and unplugged the electrical connection.
I then unscrewed the bracket to release the valve from the case and took off the rubber hose attached to it.
I installed the rubber hose on the new unit and installed the bracket back in place. I then wrapped some Teflon tape on the threads of the valve fitting and re-installed the water supply line. I re-installed the electrical connection.
I then turned on the water to check for leaks. Once I was certain there were no leaks, I re-installed the lower cover plates and took out the wood block and pushed the dishwasher back into place and re-installed the screws that held it in place.
I then ran a load of dishes to make sure everything was working properly.