CDB1500AWS3 Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed the basketsThen removed the bottom spray arm with nut driver. Removed the cover and spray tower assembly. removed screw holding broken impeller. Replaced and reversed process. Really easy. As an aside. This dishwasher has been a major disappointment. lots of things not holding up. Didn't go cheap when buying it. Nice to find a site with good prices for parts

After examining the door and main seal around the dishwasher I thought everything looked okay. I looked online to order a new seal anyway and discovered from others that the leak was probably the insulation strip inside the door rather than the seal around the dishwasher. I ordered an insulation strip and it arrived a couple days later. I removed the seven screws of the interior door cover and disconnected the electrical. After removing the old insulation strip and installig the new one I reconnected the electrical wiring/plugs, put the door cover back on, and reinstalled the screws. Total time was about 15-20 minutes and the leak stopped. It was very easy and saved the cost of a repairman or a new dishwasher. I'm very glad that I "listened" to others and went with the new insulation strip.

The repair was as easy as 1, 2, 3.. 1) Open box that the new dishrack was shipped in from PartSelect. 2) Take old and dry rotted dishrack out of my dishwasher. 3) Place new dishrack into my dishwasher.

Less than 5 minutes.

First shut circuit breaker to dishwasher and close water valve under the sink. Remove the screws that hold the dishwasher to the counter, then remove the bottom cover plates. I slid the diswasher out almost all the way...On the left side bottom I could see the old water inlet valve was attached by 2 hex screws and a clip with 3 wires..after removing the 2 screws and clip I was able to remove the water line (place something to catch a small amount of water) and remove the black rubber hose from the old intake valve by squeezing the clip.. Removed the brass nut from the old valve you'll need it. I installed the new water inlet valve by connecting the old brass nut
(replace with new thread seal tape) , replace the water line and black rubber hose...attach to frame with the 2 hex screws and replace clip with wires...I slid the dishwasher back under the counter, turned the water on and power back on...I ran the dishwasher before I secured it in place to check for leaks...Dry as a bone...I then secured it to the counter and replaced the bottom plates.. the dishwasher is working like new...everything comes out spotless...Sometimes repairs are not as hard as they look, just take your time.

1. Removed 4 screws holding latch and controls module to the door.

2. Went back to your site to check how to get the control module to come loose from the door. I gave it a good upward hit with my hand and it came off. There was wiring that prevented the module from coming completely free. But there was enough room to get to the latch.

3. Used a screwdriver to fish out the broken latch parts.

4. Inserted the new latch and gave it a tap to spring the pivot pins into place.

5. Replaced the 4 screws that hold the latch and control module to the door. Job done.

First I removed two bottom plates (two screws on each) Then I pulled dishwasher out about six inches. That's as far as it would go because I did not disconnect the water and drain hoses. That was enough to remove the broken cable and collect the disabled spring. I then reattached the new cable to the spring and reworked them into position. NOTE: There is a right and left cable and spring set-up. I used the "good" side as a guide. I then pushed the dishwasher back into place and replaced the two bottom plates.

Remove the 4 screws at the lower panel, turn power off to dishwasher, remove single 1/4 attaching screw from float switch, open the door remove the old float assembly. Make sure you install the float in the machine first than side the switch over the end of the float before screwing it back in.

I turned off the electricity at the circuit breaker. Sitting in a chair in front of the opened dishwasher with the partially opened door resting on my knees, I removed the 10 screws lining the inside of the door (setting them in order on the cabinet above -- 2 are different length so this helps keep them in order.
I tilted the inner cover on the door up (which is what the screws had been holding). With the door not fully open because it was on my knees, I was able to position the cover so that I did not have to remove the connection to the soap dispenser.
The two middle screws removed earlier were the screws that held the latch in place, so the assembly was already loose at this point. I put a black mark on the assembly to mark the side that the black wires were attached. Then with the pliers removed the plugs that were connected to the switches on either side of the assembly. Then marked the replacement assembly with the black mark on the same side as the one removed. I attached the plugs to the the replacement assembly using the black mark as reminder for which side was which.
I lined up the latch on the door where it goes, lowered the lid (lifting the lower edge over the base a little), lined up and started the latch screws (middle 2), then started all of the other screws and then tightened them all. Closed the lid and tested the latch. It was closing correctly now. I turned on the electricity and tested to make sure all was now working properly.

I pulled the dishwasher out from under the countertop. It was quit easy to get to in the lower left front corner of the appliance. I loosened up the bracket that was holding the valve in place. Removed the wires, and taped and ID them so that I would know which one went where. Removed the hose clamp, pulled the hose off and removed the old valve. Put the new one back in just as I removed the old one in the same order. It was a snap! This is not the first time I have used PartSelect! Our evaporate fan went out on our refrigerator a couple years ago, replaced that. A shelf broke in our refrigerator twice, each one different at different times bought both from Part Select. This is the first place I look for help with repairs! I at least attempt to save money, then if it's too difficult I will hire a repairman. So Far, PartSelect has saved me a lot of money on doing it myself! Thanks PartSelect for making small repairs easy to tackle yourself, along with reasonable prices for parts!

There was a tear in the fine filter (fabric) on the accumulator. This can be seen by looking in dishwasher without having to disassemble anything. Food was being sucked in and sprayed back out on dishes.

Disassembled, cleaned, replaced part then reassembled.

Cleaned out the spinning sprayers -- used toothpicks to clean out holes, flushed with water.

Cleaned out under the accumulator.

Works like new.

First I opened the breaker on the dishwasher removing power from the unit. Then I removed the Torx head screws on the cover on the back side of the front door. Then I pulled off the stainless steel sheet metal panel which exposed the door latch. Then I unplugged the electrical connectors to the two micro switches on the assembly, next I plugged in the connectors on the new latch assembly and postioned the latch back on the mounting holes. Replaced the stainless steel sheet metal and put the screws back.

I removed all the screws from inside of the door. I disconected the two wire harness and removed the door latch. I replaced it with the new latch. Put all screws back in the door. Every thing works good. It was vary easy to do.

Difficulty was primarily because there were no instructions for the procedure so trial and error. I suggest: 1) Turn off power circut to the dishwasher. Then remove the star headed screws on the panel with door open and this separates the interior plastic door liner from the exterior door panel 2) remove the 4 screws inside the door that are the final fasteners for the exterior panel and the metal brace 3) bottom of the old door panel is curled and needs to be bent back slightly at the bottom 2 corners with a screw driver or pliers so the old panel can be removed by sliding the panel upward past corner brace while being careful with the electrical connections 4) once the old panel is removed the new one can be slid down the door arms and the interior screws attached 5) finally install the star head screws holding the interior panel and the new exterior panel. Restore electrical power and enjoy the new look of the ss panel.

Peeled off the old foam strip, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, let dry completely, applied new foam strip,replaced door interior done I wish repairing relationships with fiance and kids were one tenth this easy.

after reading a article on problems the logic one was frist the door. Order the part ,took off the inter panel with star slot (10)exposed the handle and switch. Removed it, abit hard at frist,then replacement went in easy , the washer worked.
I guess I was lucky because on the other side of handle similar type of part thats maytag for you.