OEMM1-DU5JV Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

Unscrewed the 2 screws securing the dishwasher to the counter. Unscrewed 2 front panels. Shut off water valve. Disconnected water intake. Pulled dishwasher out 5 inches. Removed broken spring, replaced it. Checked the door movement. Scrubbed the door rubber gasket of calcium deposits & debris. Replaced the Teflon tape on the water intake. Reconnected water hose. Opened water valve. Checked for leaks at the water intake location. Ran 1 dishwasher cycle again for leaks. Pushed the dishwasher back under the counter. Secured the 2 screws on top of the dishwasher to the counter. Reattached the 2 front panels and enjoyed a glass of wine.

ordered new gasket, watched the video that was in the order conformation on how to install which was very easy to understand. the actual installation was right on the money. Thank-you.

advisor showed a 30% chance that the part in question would solve my problem and it did. Had help from my 12 year old so it was a great teaching moment. She particularly liked when I forgot a part in final installation and she had to remind me to install before closing up the repair. 15 minutes total. Awesome fun!

I disconnected the dish washer and pulled it out. I laid it on its back, unplugged the electrical wires,removed the electrical magnet and pried the shaft seal out with a flat screwdriver. I gently packed the new seal into place with the flat screwdriver. I connected the electrical magnet and wires. I then installed the dish washer and ran it through a cycle. I am pleased to say the dish washer does not leak now.

Turn off power, remove the lower kick plate and lower trim panel with the nutdriver. The float switch is in the front on the left. Remove the two wires on the switch. Use a #1 philips to remove the one screw holding the switch to the frame. Remove switch. Install wires on new switch and install switch using the screw. Be sure to get the plastic float arm under the switch. Raise float and observe the switch clicking on and off. Replace lower plates and restore power.

***BEFORE STARTING BE SURE TO TURN OFF THE POWER!!
THE SPRING TENSION WAS GONE THAT WOULD KEEP THE DOOR FROM FALLING. KEEP IN MIND THERE IS A DOOR SPRING AND LINKAGE ON BOTH SIDES OF THE DOOR. SO BUY 2 OF EACH AND RETURN THE ONES YOU DON'T USE. IF YOU REPLACE THE LINKAGE ON ONE SIDE YOU MIGHT AS WELL CHANGE THE OTHER ONE SINCE IT'S ONLY A SMALL PLASTIC PIECE.
FOR ME THE SPRING WAS GOOD - ONLY REPLACED THE LINKAGE. REMOVED THE PANEL AT THE BOTTOM AND THE 2 SCREWS THAT HELD IT UNDER THE COUNTER TOP. I DIDN'T DISCONNECT THE WATER BUT WAS ABLE TO PULL THE UNIT OUT JUST ENOUGH (10 INCHES OR SO) TO GET TO THE SPRING. HELD IT IN PLACE WITH THE VISE GRIP SO IT DIDN'T FALL BEHIND THE UNIT. FYI - YOU MIGHT HAVE TO ADJUST THE TENSIONER ON THE BOTTOM IF YOUR SPRING TOOK A WALK WHEN THE LINKAGE BROKE. BE CAREFUL PUSHING THE UNIT BACK UNDER THE COUNTER. TOOK ME ABOUT AN HOUR AND SAVED SOME MONEY

My husband removed the screws that hold the inside panel in place to expose the contral panel area. He disconnected the wire connections and removed the part to replace. One of the relay housings cracked and he had to glue it back together before he could reassemble the whole thing. I did not include drying time in the repair time estimate. After reassembly, the dishwasher worked like a charm.
Many thanks to PartSelect.com and my husband!

I tried tightening the latch (this had worked once before), but it was already tightened as far as it would go, and door still leaked. So I suspected the gasket, because the old one looked like it had lost its elasticity and was caked with crud. I tried cleaning it in place, but it still leaked. So I ordered a new gasket. However, it was back-ordered, so I tried removing the old gasket and cleaning it. It came out very easliy ( I had expected it to fall apart). Then I cleaned it good under running water, kneading the crud out of it. I also cleaned ou the groove, then I replaced it and that fixed the leak. So I didn't need the new gasket.

Access to the soap dispenser is easy just screws. One of the two hex head screws that hold the mechanism assembly is buried by a lever and required a with a special offset wrench, I used bent needle nosed pliers to loosen and remove the screw quarter turn at a time. The blocking lever was a snap-in and maybe could have been removed with high force, not generally recommended for 14 year old plastic parts. In hindsight I would use a digital camera to record the mechanism, due to a absence of any detail cartoons of the assembly. The lever arm load spring required tweezers to remove and re-install.

removed the 2 stops that held in the upper basket. rolled the old one out and slid the new one in. the replaced the stops. cake and pie!!

just pulled out old gasket
pushed in new one

I removed the inside cover of the door (6 to 8 screws), disconnected the wiring and wrote down where they needed to plug back into. Slipped the new dispenser door latch grommet over the latch, re-connected the wires, laid the door's inside cover back into place and replaced the screws. No leaks since. I have to say that without the help on partselect.com I would have wasted time and money in replacing the door's gasket. I'll definately check back here when any problem arises.

removed inner dor panel . then the soap dispencer replaced seal around the latch .replced panel

I first replaced the seal/grommet around the soap dispenser latch, which was leaking, but did not totally stop the leak. I ended up ordering the door gasket too. Both were very easy to replace. My wife wanted a new dishwasher, but let me take a crack at fixing the leak first. Woo Hoo - big $$$ saved.

The problem would rarely happen if the dishwasher was fully loaded vs. lightly loaded; which would produce a lot of water rapidly during the spray cycles. (or empty during the house inspection!). Removing and replacing the door gasket is super-easy.