OEMM1-DU5J Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

I took off bottom front and kick plate. Retrieved the spring which had flown to the rear of the unit. Cannot pull unit out because the trim piece on the counter top was put in after the unit was screwed to the underside of the counter. So... I noticed that you could move the plate the bottom of the spring hooked into by unscrewing a long quarter inch hex head bolt and bring the plate forward where I could hook the bottom of the spring into the plate. I had first hung the door spring linkage on the door (looked at the opposite side to see how it was arranged) then onto the top of the spring. The difficult part was keeping the bottom of the spring in its hole in the plate while moving the plate back in place. After I got it past the flange where the bolt screwed in, I screwed the bolt in and pulled the plate back to match the opposite side distance which put tension on the spring. The door now works. I am fortunate to have my husband's tools available.

With watching Video on line it was fairly simply, my son knew exactly what to do, it took him about 20 minutes from start to completion and when tested, dishwasher ran great. We have used it six times and have not had a problem. I would highly recommend this part if you are having the same problem. The video was very good.

Turn off power, remove the lower kick plate and lower trim panel with the nutdriver. The float switch is in the front on the left. Remove the two wires on the switch. Use a #1 philips to remove the one screw holding the switch to the frame. Remove switch. Install wires on new switch and install switch using the screw. Be sure to get the plastic float arm under the switch. Raise float and observe the switch clicking on and off. Replace lower plates and restore power.

I disconnected the dish washer and pulled it out. I laid it on its back, unplugged the electrical wires,removed the electrical magnet and pried the shaft seal out with a flat screwdriver. I gently packed the new seal into place with the flat screwdriver. I connected the electrical magnet and wires. I then installed the dish washer and ran it through a cycle. I am pleased to say the dish washer does not leak now.

***BEFORE STARTING BE SURE TO TURN OFF THE POWER!!
THE SPRING TENSION WAS GONE THAT WOULD KEEP THE DOOR FROM FALLING. KEEP IN MIND THERE IS A DOOR SPRING AND LINKAGE ON BOTH SIDES OF THE DOOR. SO BUY 2 OF EACH AND RETURN THE ONES YOU DON'T USE. IF YOU REPLACE THE LINKAGE ON ONE SIDE YOU MIGHT AS WELL CHANGE THE OTHER ONE SINCE IT'S ONLY A SMALL PLASTIC PIECE.
FOR ME THE SPRING WAS GOOD - ONLY REPLACED THE LINKAGE. REMOVED THE PANEL AT THE BOTTOM AND THE 2 SCREWS THAT HELD IT UNDER THE COUNTER TOP. I DIDN'T DISCONNECT THE WATER BUT WAS ABLE TO PULL THE UNIT OUT JUST ENOUGH (10 INCHES OR SO) TO GET TO THE SPRING. HELD IT IN PLACE WITH THE VISE GRIP SO IT DIDN'T FALL BEHIND THE UNIT. FYI - YOU MIGHT HAVE TO ADJUST THE TENSIONER ON THE BOTTOM IF YOUR SPRING TOOK A WALK WHEN THE LINKAGE BROKE. BE CAREFUL PUSHING THE UNIT BACK UNDER THE COUNTER. TOOK ME ABOUT AN HOUR AND SAVED SOME MONEY

I tried tightening the latch (this had worked once before), but it was already tightened as far as it would go, and door still leaked. So I suspected the gasket, because the old one looked like it had lost its elasticity and was caked with crud. I tried cleaning it in place, but it still leaked. So I ordered a new gasket. However, it was back-ordered, so I tried removing the old gasket and cleaning it. It came out very easliy ( I had expected it to fall apart). Then I cleaned it good under running water, kneading the crud out of it. I also cleaned ou the groove, then I replaced it and that fixed the leak. So I didn't need the new gasket.

ordered new gasket, watched the video that was in the order conformation on how to install which was very easy to understand. the actual installation was right on the money. Thank-you.

advisor showed a 30% chance that the part in question would solve my problem and it did. Had help from my 12 year old so it was a great teaching moment. She particularly liked when I forgot a part in final installation and she had to remind me to install before closing up the repair. 15 minutes total. Awesome fun!

Access to the soap dispenser is easy just screws. One of the two hex head screws that hold the mechanism assembly is buried by a lever and required a with a special offset wrench, I used bent needle nosed pliers to loosen and remove the screw quarter turn at a time. The blocking lever was a snap-in and maybe could have been removed with high force, not generally recommended for 14 year old plastic parts. In hindsight I would use a digital camera to record the mechanism, due to a absence of any detail cartoons of the assembly. The lever arm load spring required tweezers to remove and re-install.

The repair went great. Very simple process to remove the old gasket and just press the new one in by hand. Total time to repair was 3 minutes. This was a very easy process, only needed to use a screw driver and my fingers to do it. The water leak was over. Anyone can do this repair. Don't think about getting a new dishwasher, or a plumber, as this is a very
simple repair that will easily do the fix!

removed inner dor panel . then the soap dispencer replaced seal around the latch .replced panel

Remove the old rack and slip in the new one. Took 5 min to figure out how to remove the upper rack. Now have "new" dishwasher. Great service by PartSelect.

I removed the gasket from the packaging & soaked it in hot water for approx 5 minutes to enhance the pliability of the rubber. I them opened the dishwasher door and removed the existing gasket, making sure I observed any specifics of the gasket, (ie...shape of gasket). I then cleaned any debris from the gasket channel. I took the new gasket from the water and folded it in half to determine where the middle was, and I started inserting the gasket beginning at the middle area of the channel, (just under the door latching mechanism). I finished inserting both sides and then closed the door for approximately 30 minutes to complete the gasket seating process. No leaks!!!

popped the two end caps off of the runners (the hardest part of the installation was figuring out how to pop them without braking them). Turns out just using a flat screw driver to start opening the cap lock did the trick. Once the end caps were off it was just a matter of rolling the old one off and the new one on and then putting the end caps back on.

The new basket wasn't an exact match, it's lighter weight and doesn't have the exact same configuration as far as the rows of tines. This will do us fine until it's time to replace the unit.

Actually following the online video is the way to go.