OEMM1-DU5J Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

Unscrewed the inside door panel. Removed the reservoir assembly. Disconnected the wax motor. Replaced it with the new motor. Replaced the new o-ring. Done. The hardest part was finding out why it was not working and how to fix it. Google for a long time in order to find some idea what to do. Then took the door apart to see the reservoir and the wax motor. After that, it was pretty easy. HTH

Attaching the part to the door only took a few minutes but getting the dishwasher out over the hardwood floor that was installed after the appliance was put in was a pain. I had to remove a piece of the hardwood floor and use some technique to get it out of the opening so that the springs were visable. There is no problem after that. I would recommend using work gloves to stretch the spring over the retaining notch on the door so that you don't pinch your hand.

Everything is straight forward with the following two exceptions; The threads that hold the motor fan to the impeller are left hand, and it takes a special tool to remove the top rotating assembly. It took about 4 hours to figure out what to do, and make the tool . I put it back together in about 20 minutes.

The problem was the rubber end on the upper shower head pipe at the pump. Not to hard . Slide dishwaser half way ouy the ptpe is on the right side.The bottom end is is just a clamp the top drops in from the top, inside there is a nut above the upper shower head. You can unsrew the nut with your fingers, it is right above the upper shower head.There it a washer at the top of the pipe that should be replaced that doesnot come with the pipe

first I turned off the water to the dishwasher, and turned the power off for the dishwasher.
removed the 4 screws from bottom panel
then removed the 2 screws from the bottom of the counter,
at this point I could pull the dishwasher out. then figured out where the part went and attached.
pushed the dishwasher back and lined up the holes under the counter, put those in first, the put the bottom panel back on, turned the water back on, and flipped the breaker switch.
Reading the other stories really did help me get some idea of what needed to be done

Unscrewed bottom panel. I could see right spring in proper position, left spring lying on floor, and broken linkage. Ordered part from partselect.com. To install, had to unscrew dishwasher attachment to counter, loosen leveling legs, pull it out a bit, then could replace linkage and reattach spring, retighten leveling legs, then push back in and replace screws and bottom panel.

Remove the lower panel by taking out the 2 screws on top and 2 at the bottom of the panel. To diagnose the problem, verify that there is water supplied from the valve under the sink to the water supply valve under the DW. This can be done by turning off the valve under the sink, disconnecting the copper supply line under the DW then turning on the valve under the sink to see if water passes through the line.

The float switch is located on the left front (as you face the DW). This is activated by the float in the tub. Check to be certain that the float is not restricted. The contact point on the switch is a spring loaded plunger. It should depress as the float rises and pop back out as the float returns to its low point.

Turn off the circuit breaker for the DW. To remove the switch, pull off the two electric leads from the switch. Mark the top lead with a piece of tape. Then remove the one philips screw. Replace the switch by reversing the procedure. Note that you have aligned the float contact point with the float.

The repair was very easy. The door gasket was a little short, but I gently streched it to the proper length. I replaced the other parts as a precaution as some others said they were really the source of the original leak. It went very smoothy and NO MORE LEAKS.

Attempted repair was quick & simple. Removed 7 torx screws, and then pulled the wax motor out of its holder. Pulled 2 wires off, and replaced old motor with new motor. Reattached wires, & reassembled.
Only problem was this did not fix the problem, so back to square one, but worth a shot.

I removed the screws holding on the interior door panel. This exposed the soap dispenser latch mechanism. After removing the two retaining screws I transferred the original parts to the new retainer and replaced the grommet prior to reinstallation of the mechanism and interior door panel. A savings of probably $100.00 or more for a service call and parts. Should last a few more years.

Removed 7 Torx Screws ... removed inner door panel ... snapped off the selinoid after noting the exact original position ... removed the Latch assembly 2 hex head screws ... removed the old Grommet which was crumbling apart ... stretched the new grommet in place. Then did the steps in reverse to complete a successful repair.
Thanks to your website, quick turn-around service and customer's repair stories, I probably saved a few dollars but mostly, I realized how much I love my dishwasher now more than ever!

I removed lower cover panel. Removed two wires. (one on each end of the element. Removed two nuts on the element. Took out old part. Put new part in and reversed procedure. Works fine now.

First I replaced the soap door grommet -- door still leaked. Then I went for the really expensive part ($40) -- the door gasket. The old one came right out and the new one went right in -- 15 minutes tops -- and the door no longer leaked.

Thanks to all the previous posters for their hints.

Removed covers on the bottom of dishwasher so I could get access to area. Measured no voltage on water inlet pump. removed to wires from foat switch, one screw to remove float switch. When I pressed the float switch button to activate the switch would not move. Ordered and replaced the switch. 30 minutes tops

easy repair. The foam has to go over some wires but if you stretch it alittle as you place it all goes well