DU40JV Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

I used a voltmeter to see if 120 volts was present at the right time in the cycle; it was, so the actuator was the likely culprit. I ordered one on a Monday afternoon about 2:30, and it appeared on my doorstep Tuesday, shortly after noon! It took less than 15 minutes to replace the actuator - removing the 7 Phillips-head screws, lifting the panel, popping out the upper actuator, removing the two wires, putting them on the new actuator, popping it in and putting the panel back on. Worked like a charm. Happy wife . . .

just unscrew the inside panel. using a torx screw driver. disconect vericarefully the bad actuator and install a new one. put back everything in back order .

romoved 3 screws, removed spray arm support nut. pulled off spray arm support, replaced new spray arm support and spray arm support nut

Popped off the plactic screen filter (3 screws). Droped in the new Spary Arm and put back together.

You guys are AWESOME! I ordered the part on a Wednesday afternoon and received it Thursday morning. So all and all I didn't even have to wash any dishes by hand.

I pulled out the old gasket and put in the new one. You need to stretch it a bit as you guide it in the track.
It was very easy but did not solve the problem.
Apparently, Maytag dishwashers are known for a leaky soap dish which I figured out after the door gasket was replaced. The problem is usually with the soap dish latch. You need to take the inner door off, disassemble the soap diehs, out a new gasket and latch on, reassemble, and you should be all set.

removed lower dish basket. then removed 3 screws lifted element cover and removed center hold down nut lifted spray nozzle nad installed new parts. dishwasher is working like new.
thanks for asking.

Removed dishwasher door liner and removed soap dish door latch assembly. Removed latch from assembly and replaced with new latch. Had trouble replacing assembly in correct sequence. Had to go on line and look at sequence picture to replace assembly correctly. Installed new gasket and replaced liner in door. The new gasket and latch solved my leak problem.
Thank you PartSelect

The dripping water was coming from bottom right side of the door, almost directly beneath the detergent dispenser. Looking closely at the drips, I could see that they were coming from saturated insulation that is between the inner and outer door layers. I took the inside piece of the door apart and sure enough I could see water had been getting through the door latch and running down the inside of the door. I could see that the grommet around the door latch was cracked and brittle, so I replaced it and was pretty sure that would resolve the problem. But when I put the door all back together and did a test run, I had a leak even bigger than the first, but this leak appeared to be through the door seal at the bottom right. I then ordered a new door seal, which took only 5 minutes to replace and resolved the leak. I think the old door seal was too worn out at that spot and just by removing and replacing the inside door layer, it must have not made a good seal at that point. But I recommend starting with the door latch and grommet first, since that is a $4 part, and then proceeding with the door seal, a $43 part, only if necessary.

I disconnected the dish washer and pulled it out. I laid it on its back, unplugged the electrical wires,removed the electrical magnet and pried the shaft seal out with a flat screwdriver. I gently packed the new seal into place with the flat screwdriver. I connected the electrical magnet and wires. I then installed the dish washer and ran it through a cycle. I am pleased to say the dish washer does not leak now.

At first I tried putting the spring into the lid where the shorter extension of the spring fit tightly into the recessed part of the lid. (If you look at the lid where the hole is for the spring and pin, you see that there is what looks like the arm of the letter "Q".) This worked, but the lid would only open with limited force and would hang down when the dishwasher door was closed.
After looking at it again, I positioned the spring so that the shorter extension of the spring ran through the partially open portion of the spring hole. (Looking at the cup laying flat on the ground, you see that the bottom of the pin/spring hole has a slit in it). This allowed the spring to have greater tension and I have had no more problems. The lid opens with force and stays closed when the dishwasher door is closed (vertical).
This may be a little confusing as I do not know the technical terms for any of this stuff, but I just mess with stuff til it works or breaks, whichever comes first! haha

My husband removed the screws that hold the inside panel in place to expose the contral panel area. He disconnected the wire connections and removed the part to replace. One of the relay housings cracked and he had to glue it back together before he could reassemble the whole thing. I did not include drying time in the repair time estimate. After reassembly, the dishwasher worked like a charm.
Many thanks to PartSelect.com and my husband!

From other comments on this site, I learned that 2 people fixed the problem with a new door gasket; 3 fixed the problem by replacing the dispenser latch. I tried the gasket and it helped some (obviously needed replacement anyway) but then learned that the rubber boot around the soap dispenser latch was torn into two pieces. Replaced it and good-to-go.

I determined that the problem was the door switch after disassembling the door and noting a broken electrica switch. After receiving the new part, I replaced the whole door switch assembly, and the dishwasher turns on and works fine.

In front of the dishwasher, my wife and I noticed pooling water when the cycle was running. I was fearing the worst, that the tub was leaking from underneath, or that the supply system was leaking and I was going to have to take the whole sucker out. Not so.

I saw that the door gasket was very hard and corroded from our local hard water. I got to this site and saw that others replaced the dispenser door latch grommet, too, and four bucks was a reasonable add-on to make sure the whole thing was dry later.

The door gasket itself was about a five minute repair. No real tools required, except that a blunt pushing tool is helpful. The only trick was making sure that both sides were relatively equal on the bottom.

The dispenser door latch thingy was a bit more complicated. The driver set I was using fortunately had a Torx bit that fit the plastic door panel screws. I then tried dissembling the door solenoid/release mechanism, but I should have just undone the nuts and taken the whole thing off without taking the small pieces apart. Anyway, I replaced the grommet easily and then got all the small stuff put back together OK.

This was an easy repair without pictures or instructions.

I removed the inside panel. This exposed the rear of the control panel. I carefully replaced the defective switch. Only one was bad but of course i replaced both.