DU2J Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

The repair was EASY! Took bottom drawer out. Used tool to remove 3 screws that held belly screen and washer arms together. Used needlenose plyers to unscrew long pointed center screw (plastic!) then reassmenbled! Hey BATTA BING BATTA BOOM!

Actual i missed diagnosed the leak and ordered a very expensive door gasket. The leak was coming from shrinage of the wax resevoire o rig and the tab seal for the soap dispensor. I missed the trees the forest got in the way. The leak was dripping alond the front panel well away from the main door seal.

I cleans a the plastic surfaces and noticed a lip around the opening for the reservoire and used 150 sandpaper to remove it. Replaced the O ring, tab seal and bothe selonoids and cleaned everything. Put it back together. Works find lasts along time

First I had to unhook the electric, water line and drain hose. Then slide out the dishwasher. Took several days to find the drain hose - local stores only carried a 6 ft hose and I needed a 7 ft. Once I found it online, purchased it and recieved it I put it all back together and all is good.

First of all, rather then spending the 44 dollars on the main door seal simply cut yours in halve and trim a quarter of an inch from the disintegrated ends and use superglue and glue these ends together. this glued end will now be up top and in the middle and new clean ends will be down in the corners. next I removed the plastic door panel using a torxhead screwdriver, I just stuck the new inner foam pad on the old one. Then I glued rubber washers to the inner frame about 1/8 thick in the top 2 corners only. Finally I reattached the plastic door being careful not to tighten the torx head bolts just tight enough. It's dry and working good.

removed inner door panel. tested ythe Wax motor that operates the soap dispenser latch. It tested OK so I removed dispenser assembly. replaced the worn plastic parts and reinstalled the inner door panel.

Once I pulled the old broken drain valve lever lifter off the shaft, the shaft rotated counter clockwise. I then had to turn shaft back clockwise so there was enough room to slip the new part on. Needle nose pliers worked great to hold it in place while regular pliers in the other hand was used to turn the shaft.

Removed four screws on bottom plate. Located repair site on outside of cabinet. Had to hook spring on bottom rear plate by brail. Then attached linkage to spring and ran stiff wire through linkage to raise it above arm. Called a man with stronger but larger hands had him stretch the spring while I guided linkage over arm and into the slot using the wire. Removed stiff wire with needle nose pliers and reassembled front plate.

Took off the float, the jam nut was hard to get off, we ended up breaking the bottom piece of the float to get it off, but that was okay because we had a new float. The new float went on real easy and the jam nut went back on real easy. The foam insulation strip was real easy to get off we got a good hold of one end and striped it off slowly so there was nothing left on the door, then we cleaned the surface and put on the new insulation strip. We ran dishwasher to test it and there was no leak. Awesome. Cheap and easy to repair. We were impressed.

Myscanning other reviews i saw mention dishwahser developed a small leak on RHS of door. I assumed the door gasket and planned to order that. On of the dispenser gromet which is only a $5 part so ordered that as well. I first replaced the door gasket which is an easy 10 mins job and ran the dishwasher again, but it still leaked.

I then removed the 7 torx screws on the door panel which came away easily. It was obvious that water was in there, so i removed the two screw on the dispenser with a nutdriver to replace the grommet. This process took 20-30 mins. After reassembly the leak was gone.

Without the comments on the website i would never have thought of the disepenser as source of the problem.

It was difficult to use the guide provided online to determine what position to place the spring in. Finally I realized that the spring had to be placed with the tip that sticks out against the wall of the dishwasher to make the spring action work. The long and short pins were not a problem. How to place the spring was the main problem, but I finally figured it out. I did not need any special tools to accomplish this. I just used a kitchen knife to push the short pin into place.

This is the second time I've purchased parts from PartSelect.com. Actually called Lowe's parts hotline and got disconnected three times. Went online with PartSelect.com and purchased the items within 5 minutes. Parts arrived within 2 days. Will definitely be purchasing parts from PartSelect.com again when needed!!!

Removed the inner door panel-Removed the black cowling covering the timer and wires.
Removed the swicth assembly and installed new part.
Reassembled dishwasher.

I checked the operation of the two switches. One switch did not click, when button was pushed, as cleanly as the other. There was a bit of delay and play in the button when depressed, even sticking a bit.

I used a torx driver to remove the seven screws holding the inside door panel in place. Flipping it over exposed the dispenser mechanism. There were two hex nut screws holding the whole assembly in place and two wires attached to the wax motor. As an afterthought I had ordered the sealing grommet for the latch, and as it turned out, the main problem with the sticking latch was that the grommet had worn out and allowed the hard soapy water to leak into the slider assembly and build up a hard crusty residue that had helped to ware out the old wax motor. After completely disassembling all of the parts, I scrubbed the residue out of the housing, replaced the slider, latch, spring, and grommet. Next I snapped the new wax motor into place and connected the two wires. The whole thing went back in place and the two hex screws went back to hold it all together. Finally, the seven torx screws went back to put the door back together. The whole repair went without a hitch.

After checking this site for any clues I saw that others had the same problem and changed the door switch so I thought I would give it a shot.I removed the inner part of the door(plastic).It had about 8 screws.Then there was a plastic cover that covers the wiring that comes right out and there was the switch.There are really 2 switches that come with the latch.then take out one screw with the nut driver.Take the four wires off the old latch and install on the new latch.Then screw back into the door and put inside part of the door together.Close the door and turn on and away you go.I also turned off the power to play it safe.I was thinking of replacing the dishwasher cause it is 10 years old but now I can take my time and wait for a good deal.Thank you very much partselect.Also I ordered the part 12.00 Sunday nite and recieved it on Tuesday afternoon with no special shipping.Wow!

I used the parts blowup diagram on PartSelect.com and dissasembled the bottom wash assembly. Carefully examining how the washer arm rotated, I determined that the spray arm support nut had broken. The extended top of it has broken off. This nut, when tightened, allows the spray arm to rotate freely. In trying to diagnose the problem, I had even removed the motor assembly at the very bottom. When I reassembled it, I apparently did not seat the gasket well and did not tighten the bolts well, so when I tested the washer, water leaked out the bottom. So, I had to dissasemble it all again and properly torque the bolts. So, I really created another problem during the diagnosis.