DU2J3 Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

just unscrew the inside panel. using a torx screw driver. disconect vericarefully the bad actuator and install a new one. put back everything in back order .

romoved 3 screws, removed spray arm support nut. pulled off spray arm support, replaced new spray arm support and spray arm support nut

Pulled out the old gasket and pressed in the new one. No more leakage.

Popped off the plactic screen filter (3 screws). Droped in the new Spary Arm and put back together.

You guys are AWESOME! I ordered the part on a Wednesday afternoon and received it Thursday morning. So all and all I didn't even have to wash any dishes by hand.

I pulled out the old gasket and put in the new one. You need to stretch it a bit as you guide it in the track.
It was very easy but did not solve the problem.
Apparently, Maytag dishwashers are known for a leaky soap dish which I figured out after the door gasket was replaced. The problem is usually with the soap dish latch. You need to take the inner door off, disassemble the soap diehs, out a new gasket and latch on, reassemble, and you should be all set.

Ordered 3 parts first ..all came within two biz days..forgot the toe panel, called it was here the next day! The people that assisted me were wonderful! My husband did the repair. the dishwasher looks like new!!!!! I will order from Part Select again and again...extremley pleased. Now if only we could cover the Refrigerator in Black it would look like a whole new kitchen!

advisor showed a 30% chance that the part in question would solve my problem and it did. Had help from my 12 year old so it was a great teaching moment. She particularly liked when I forgot a part in final installation and she had to remind me to install before closing up the repair. 15 minutes total. Awesome fun!

ordered new gasket, watched the video that was in the order conformation on how to install which was very easy to understand. the actual installation was right on the money. Thank-you.

Unscrewed the 2 screws securing the dishwasher to the counter. Unscrewed 2 front panels. Shut off water valve. Disconnected water intake. Pulled dishwasher out 5 inches. Removed broken spring, replaced it. Checked the door movement. Scrubbed the door rubber gasket of calcium deposits & debris. Replaced the Teflon tape on the water intake. Reconnected water hose. Opened water valve. Checked for leaks at the water intake location. Ran 1 dishwasher cycle again for leaks. Pushed the dishwasher back under the counter. Secured the 2 screws on top of the dishwasher to the counter. Reattached the 2 front panels and enjoyed a glass of wine.

My husband removed the screws that hold the inside panel in place to expose the contral panel area. He disconnected the wire connections and removed the part to replace. One of the relay housings cracked and he had to glue it back together before he could reassemble the whole thing. I did not include drying time in the repair time estimate. After reassembly, the dishwasher worked like a charm.
Many thanks to PartSelect.com and my husband!

At first I tried putting the spring into the lid where the shorter extension of the spring fit tightly into the recessed part of the lid. (If you look at the lid where the hole is for the spring and pin, you see that there is what looks like the arm of the letter "Q".) This worked, but the lid would only open with limited force and would hang down when the dishwasher door was closed.
After looking at it again, I positioned the spring so that the shorter extension of the spring ran through the partially open portion of the spring hole. (Looking at the cup laying flat on the ground, you see that the bottom of the pin/spring hole has a slit in it). This allowed the spring to have greater tension and I have had no more problems. The lid opens with force and stays closed when the dishwasher door is closed (vertical).
This may be a little confusing as I do not know the technical terms for any of this stuff, but I just mess with stuff til it works or breaks, whichever comes first! haha

On my dishwasher, one linkage broke, making the door feel heavy to raise and lower. Because there are two door springs, one on either side, I decided to replace both plastic linkages even though only one broke, because it would only be a matter of time before the other plastic link failed and I would have to do the repair all over again. Remove the 2-piece panel at the bottom front of the dishwasher. It's held on by four hex-head screws which also have slots for a Philips screwdriver. The springs can now be seen on both sides of the door, at the bottom. Remove two screws that anchor the dishwasher to the underside of the counter. Gently ease the dishwasher a short distance out from its under-counter recess, just far enough to gain access to the springs. Make sure not to put any excessive strain on the water inlet tubing, drain hose or electric power cable by pulling the dishwasher out too far. Close and latch the dishwasher door so that the springs are in minimum tension. Note the slot that the linkages hook into on the door levers. Hook the small end of the spring into the hole in the metal bracket. Slide the linkage onto the other end of the spring. Stretch the spring to slide the free end of the linkage onto the door lever and into the appropriate slot. Push the dishwasher back into its recess and replace all screws and panels.

I disconnected the dish washer and pulled it out. I laid it on its back, unplugged the electrical wires,removed the electrical magnet and pried the shaft seal out with a flat screwdriver. I gently packed the new seal into place with the flat screwdriver. I connected the electrical magnet and wires. I then installed the dish washer and ran it through a cycle. I am pleased to say the dish washer does not leak now.

***BEFORE STARTING BE SURE TO TURN OFF THE POWER!!
THE SPRING TENSION WAS GONE THAT WOULD KEEP THE DOOR FROM FALLING. KEEP IN MIND THERE IS A DOOR SPRING AND LINKAGE ON BOTH SIDES OF THE DOOR. SO BUY 2 OF EACH AND RETURN THE ONES YOU DON'T USE. IF YOU REPLACE THE LINKAGE ON ONE SIDE YOU MIGHT AS WELL CHANGE THE OTHER ONE SINCE IT'S ONLY A SMALL PLASTIC PIECE.
FOR ME THE SPRING WAS GOOD - ONLY REPLACED THE LINKAGE. REMOVED THE PANEL AT THE BOTTOM AND THE 2 SCREWS THAT HELD IT UNDER THE COUNTER TOP. I DIDN'T DISCONNECT THE WATER BUT WAS ABLE TO PULL THE UNIT OUT JUST ENOUGH (10 INCHES OR SO) TO GET TO THE SPRING. HELD IT IN PLACE WITH THE VISE GRIP SO IT DIDN'T FALL BEHIND THE UNIT. FYI - YOU MIGHT HAVE TO ADJUST THE TENSIONER ON THE BOTTOM IF YOUR SPRING TOOK A WALK WHEN THE LINKAGE BROKE. BE CAREFUL PUSHING THE UNIT BACK UNDER THE COUNTER. TOOK ME ABOUT AN HOUR AND SAVED SOME MONEY

Turn off power, remove the lower kick plate and lower trim panel with the nutdriver. The float switch is in the front on the left. Remove the two wires on the switch. Use a #1 philips to remove the one screw holding the switch to the frame. Remove switch. Install wires on new switch and install switch using the screw. Be sure to get the plastic float arm under the switch. Raise float and observe the switch clicking on and off. Replace lower plates and restore power.