DU4K Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

Attempted repair was quick & simple. Removed 7 torx screws, and then pulled the wax motor out of its holder. Pulled 2 wires off, and replaced old motor with new motor. Reattached wires, & reassembled.
Only problem was this did not fix the problem, so back to square one, but worth a shot.

Once I removed the inside panel from the door replacing the switch was pretty simple. completed the job in less than twenty minutes.

This was the third appliance I have repaired with the help of Parts Select in the last three months.

Initially thought this issue was the dishwasher door gasket, but after reading post on this site about door latch grommet, removed 7 "hex screws" pulled inside of dishwasher door away and traced water from leak back to soap dispenser latch/grommet area so instead of ordering door gasket ordered door latch and grommet. Replaced grommet only (in addition to 7 "hex screws" had to remove 2 additional screws to get to it) which took some maneuvering. Re-aligned grommet and latch, inserted and tightened all screws that had been removed. Works great - no more water leaking!

Removed covers on the bottom of dishwasher so I could get access to area. Measured no voltage on water inlet pump. removed to wires from foat switch, one screw to remove float switch. When I pressed the float switch button to activate the switch would not move. Ordered and replaced the switch. 30 minutes tops

First I replaced the soap door grommet -- door still leaked. Then I went for the really expensive part ($40) -- the door gasket. The old one came right out and the new one went right in -- 15 minutes tops -- and the door no longer leaked.

Thanks to all the previous posters for their hints.

Unscrewed bottom panel. I could see right spring in proper position, left spring lying on floor, and broken linkage. Ordered part from partselect.com. To install, had to unscrew dishwasher attachment to counter, loosen leveling legs, pull it out a bit, then could replace linkage and reattach spring, retighten leveling legs, then push back in and replace screws and bottom panel.

Remove the motor and impeller housing assembly from the unit by disconnecting the motor wiring plug, green ground wire, removing the drain and transfer hose, wash arm assembly and three screws for the filter assembly. A plastic locking ring secures the housing assembly into the unit and is removed by rotating aft about an eighth turn. The impeller is removed from the motor shaft by unscrewing the left hand threads on the fan that attaches to the end of the impeller. The impeller has longitudinal splines that engage the motor shaft, so it has to be removed by pulling straight off of the motor shaft. My impeller was stuck on the motor shaft, so I used a dremel tool with a cut off wheel and sliced through the impeller to loosen it. Installed a new motor shaft oring, and then slid the new integrated seal/impeller onto the motor shaft and secured with the fan (remember left hand threads). Reassembled unit and no leaks...

Removed the inside door panel. Removed the 2 mounting screws to release the latch retainer assembly. Used needle nose pliers to squeeze the posts to release the rinse aid actuator. THIS was the most difficult part since they are made of plastic (didn't want to break it). Removed the spring. Mine did not have a "pivot" to remove since it was a older model, but this would be removed next. Removed old gasket around soap door latch. Pulled tabs hugging the square wax motor actuator and remove. Removed the clear plastic slider. Pulled out the old door latch. Reversed process to put back together. Make sure the gasket around the door latch is pushed all the way down onto the slot of the latch. As a precaution, I also replaced the reservoir O-ring for the rinse aid tank which was quite worn as well. When it's all apart take the cap off the rinse aid reservoir and the reservoir container drops out super easy. That is where the O-ring is. Very glad they had the parts I needed!!

Removed door interior, confirmed with tester that power was reaching door cut-off switch, but not power on other side of switch when engaged. Noticed that little switch button frozen in shut position, assumed switch had burned out. Installer new door cut-off switch with new (dual) switch units in place, plugged in unit and it ran perfectly.

The dishwasher was running perfectly, but over time it leaked more and more. We were ready to throw it out, when I searched the internet and saw stories about a tiny gasket commonly failing. I couldn't believe that could be the trouble, but ordered the $3.75 part. Unscrewed the door, slipped out the old gasket and slipped on the new one. Screwed the door back. And the result? THE LEAK IS FIXED! Unbelievable. The old gasket had gotten stiff, probably exposure to soap, and it wasn't sealing properly. That $3.75 part saved us hundreds and hundreds of dollars and will give us extra years of use from our dishwasher.

I removed the inside door cover, unpluged the accuator, removed the two screws holding the dispenser latch in place. Replaced both the latch and rubber groumet. returned the door to normal operation and verified no leaks was present.

First I removed power to the dishwasher. The inside panel of the dishwasher door is held on with several screws with Phillips heads. Remove those and the panel comes off. There is a silver metal guard that you have to pull off being careful not to tear the insulation that is on the other side. Then there is one hex head screw to take off the handle latch assembly. You remove this assembly and take off the wires to the two switches on each side of the assembly. The replacement part doesn't come with the black plunger that pushes on the switch buttons so you have to remove it from the old assembly. This was the only difficult part, I essentially destroyed the old plastic assembly getting it out. But putting it in the new assembly was easy. Then I attached the wires to the switches in the new part and reassembled everything. Works like a charm now.

Very simple. Remove bottom panels. Remove one screw holding old switch in place. Move wire connections from old switch to new one. Cleaned and lubed the switch actuator. Mounted new switch. Checked that float and actuator worked freely. Left bottom panels off till I ran a load - just to be sure all was OK. Remount bottom panels...Done! P.S. Don't forget to turn power off to dishwasher any time you work on it!!

First i bought inner door seal and that didnt work,so i read some of the other repair reviews and found that it was the soap cup latch gasket.When i removed the cover from the door you could see where the water and soap was getting in and running down to the lower right side of the door.Once i looked at the door latch gasket it was easy to see it was torn and worn out.I did replace all four gasket's just for assurance down the road.

I first made sure the new gasket was long enough and it matched the original. Next I used the tip of a screwdriver to pick out a corner of the old gasket and then pulled the entire thing out. I noticed the old one stopped at the bottom of the gasket well. The new one was much longer and I thought I might have to cut it to length. Well I'm glad I didn't. If you start on the right side and work your way up and around with a 2 in. piece longer then what the old one was. I carefully tucked it in the bottom and closed the door. Glad I didn't cut the new one. Instructions would have been nice. Overall an easy fix. I'm very mechanically inclined so I knew better.