LDF7811WW001 LG Dishwasher - Instructions

Simple, removed screws securing machine in the cabinet, then pull the unit out of the cabinet space about 10 inches. Springs are accessible within this extension. You need strong hands to extend the springs and attach them. Once attached, push machine back in place and re-install the anchor screws. In my situation, only one spring was broken, so the attached side revealed the correct slot to place the hook on the top position, the bottom position has a plastic lead for the spring, and that lead is attached to a rope to the door hinge. Note: Replace BOTH springs, even if only one is broken.

Unscrewed the screws, displaced the dispenser and re installed the screws

Pull the dishwasher out from underneath the countertop took 2 minutes unscrewed the panel on the side one minute put the connector on one minute screwed the panel back on 1 minute put the dishwasher back underneath the counter two minutes very easy job

Turn off the power at breaker box. Disconnect the power at dishwasher since I needed to pull the unit all the way out of the cabinet to get to screws on the back side for this model. Find and remove the screws to the cover. Remove cover. In my case, the rope on the connector assembly had snapped. I replaced spring and connector identically to functioning side. Did need a pair of pliers to provide enough tension on spring to install. Reconnected cover and power and moved back into the cabinet. Easy repair and my wife wondered why I hadn't done it sooner.

Relocated dishwasher to garage and set it up on a table (easier on back having it elevated). Connected temporary water supply, drained to a bucket.

Removed pump, and found it severely corroded, indicating leakage from pump shaft seal in sump. Inspection of seal revealed excessive wear, requiring sump replacement (there is no way to replace just the pump seal). I have photos of old pump & sump, but I don't see any way to upload them.

Removed sump from dishwasher with all components attached, swapped components over to new sump, reinstalled sump (with new sump gasket) and started dishwasher to check for leaks. The heater was the most difficult component to swap. Reinstalling the sump assembly was tricky.

Reinstalled dishwasher into kitchen cabinet.

Disconnect washer - pull out and turn on it's right side. Remove bottom plate (2 screws). Water intake valve is attached to water line. Disconnect water line. On the other end of the pump is a rubber hose. Disconnect hose by using a pair of pliers to open pipe clamp. Disconnect the electric line by pulling the pronged plug out of the pump. The part is composed of the pump and a metal mounting plate. They are connected by 4 screws. Remove the screws and pull out the back half of the pump. The front of the pump is attached to the washer frame by 2 screws. When removed you will notice an o-ring that forms the seal between the two halves. Remember this when installing the new pump. You will have to take the new pump apart because the whole part will not fit through the frame opening, thus the need to make sure the o-ring is properly seated. You can either install the mounting plate to the frame then attach the pump half or with half of the part in front of the frame and the other half behind the frame connect the two, then attach it to the frame. Reconnect incoming water line using teflon tape and a crescent wrench. Reconnect out-flow line with the pipe clamp and attach the power line. Since you have to take the new pump apart make sure the o-ring is properly seated as it will have a tendency to fall out. Reassemble the rest.

Snapped the rollers on.

Loosened 3 screws and unhooked supply line and electric box and pulled it out.

When I found the problem to be the check valve I reinstalled the drive motor and water pump, ordered the part I needed,Installed the new check valve, installed the rest of the parts and did a test run which corrected the problem.

Turn off circuit breaker. Turn off water at shutoff valve usually located under sink. Disconnect water line from dishwasher. Disconnect wires for the power feed from cord, Marked corresponding wires upon removal for re-installation. Remove 2 mounting screws that secure dishwasher to counter. Slide dishwasher out from counter and turn upside down. Use a blanket to prevent scratching of surfaces. Locate component on the back portion of the dishwasher. Unplug 2 wiring harnesses. My part was held on by 2 phillip screws. One in front, the other in the back along the leg bracket support. Once removed, reverse the order of removal. The i a You Tube video you can locate fr this removal. They said that you needed to release a clip to get the part out. Mine had a screw holding it on the back side. This difference cause about an extra 1/2 hour before I was able to figure out that there was NO clip that was being shown on the video. After that, The replacement went smoothly and we were having the dishes washed later that day.

The inside gasket deteriorates over time - However replacement is easy. the main thing you have to remember is after you remove the old gasket, install the new one starting at the middle top of the tub and work your way down both sides. Also, don't push the gasket all the way in...only enough to hold in place. When you close the door the gasket will form a better seal around the door.

pulled dishwasher out of cabinet, removed side panel held by screws front and back, removed broken tension rope installed new rope, replaced side panel pushed dishwasher back into cabinet and fastened
to countertop, door works like new now, (the chief cook is happy as she can be)

My husband was able to slide the dishwasher out, and quickly replace the old connector assembly for the new ones. The old connector assembly had broken at the “rope”. Now the door opens slowly and is as good as new.

The repair took right at one hour. Repair length of time will depend on what all you have to disconnect to get your dish washer out so you can remove both side panels where you will be able to access the door springs, etc. There is a door spring on each side and I recommend replacing both connectors cords while you have the dishwasher out. Mine were both broken. One thing I noticed when doing my repair was that the bracket that is on the bottom of the door was not aligned properly to the small pulley that the connector cords travels under. If yours is out of alignment you will be able to tell once you get the connector cord installed. I used heavy pliers to bend the bracket slightly inward so the connector cords rides in the center of the pulley and not off to the outside as before. This may be why mine broke in the first place. After part replacement, reinstall the door panels and put the washer back in service. There are also YouTube's of this repair so you can see what you are getting into. Basic repair.

Took off the broken one and snap on the new one.