KDI-20D KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Tranfered wheels from old rack to replacement rack. Silverware caddy was a bit too big for the replacement. I gently bent the prongs on the rack a little and its fits perfect.

Repair was awful without instructions. Instructions were requested twice with no response. Attempted without instruction and broke the sleeve. Reordered but not through Partselect

Finally listened to advice of others online and decided to replace inlet valve. Btw, the problem is NOT the inlet screen. It was completely clean in my case. Issue is with internal seals that swell over time and restrict flow leading to low water level.

Unplugged unit, removed lower front panel (two screws on outside upper corners), undid compression fitting on inlet supply line, removed two screws holding valve bracket to frame, disconnected electrical connections to valve, used pliers to compress hose clamp to remove valve outlet hose, used adjustable wrench and some elbow grease to remove small inlet elbow (its on tight!) from valve inlet, put teflon tape on elbow threads to reinstall on new valve, reverse removal instructions to put everything back. All done! MUCH cleaner dishes!

Repair was fairly easy, had to swith the mounting bracket from the old valve no problem. Install reconnected the water and the dishwasher works great now!

I was trying to avoid having to buy a new dishwasher before the holidays. I went on YouTube and found the dirty dishes may mean bad water inlet valve. So, I used my meter to see if the valve was bad and sure enough it was. I ordered the part from Part Select. Once I received the part I removed the old one. Be sure to put a towel down to catch the excess water. The bracket that came with the new prt was a different configuration, but i swapped the new with old and it worked. I addition to the valve being bad the dishwasher upper and lower arms were somewhat clogged. I looked online again and followed YouTube instructions to clean. The dishwasher is cleaning like it is new. I would recommend to anyone doing work on their dishwasher to use part select and thoroughly clean the upper and lower arm.

Removed the door cover and replaced the bi-metal.

Very easy. Disconnect power to the dishwasher via a breaker or fuse. Open the door and remove just the 4 screws on the inside lip of the door. Do not remove the screws hoding the closing brackets. Remove the front glass and chrome panel between the control panel and the kick panel. This will give you access to the soap cup and bi-metal. Remove the one retaining screw and remove the bi-metal,taking note of the position of the wires. Remove the wires, by grasping the connectors (I used needle nose pliers for this), not the wires, and re-intsall them on the new bi-metal. Re-install bi-metal on soap cup assembly, "cock" the release lever by closing the soap cup cover and manually trip the bi-metal to make sure it will release the lever and open the cover. Re-install the front panel with screws. Restore power and test appliance.

Removed bottom cover. Opened the door to take pressure off old springs. Removed the both old springs,with pliers. Replaced with the new springs. The new springs are not adequate for our heavy door.Our door has a wood, cabinet matching cover. The door falls down, if not held firmly. The springs are not as heavy duty as the old ones.

The previous pump needed to be removed, install new. New pump mounting bracket hit existing mounting bracket from an adjacent part. 1. Wire contacts removed 2. Copper incoming line was disconnected from brass elbow. 3. Hose to pump removed using pliers for wire clamp, and flat head screw driver to prod hose off. The used pump is now in one's hand. The new pump would not fit using existing screw holes. The mounting bracket was moved to the left, using the one pre-existing hole and right hole in mounting bracket. The left hole of the mounting bracket was used as location for another hole to be bored/drilled out. Two drill bits of different sizes were used, along with the same sheet metal screw which was in previous mounting bracket assembly. Pump design has been changed from two wire coils to one wire coil. 1. The hose was re-connected using pliers. 2. Copper compression fitting lined up with brass elbow again. 3. Two Wire contacts were attached; previously there were Three contacts. 4. Second screw was added in newly bored hole. Plenty of room moving to the left. There is one loose wire contact.

Took off front panel and removed the faulty part, installed the new one and started it up.