KDTM704ESS2 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

In this case the dishwasher had already been installed for a few years. After removing it, we inspected it and saw it needed a bit of TLC. The transport wheels on the back were missing, making it harder to move around without scratching the tile and some of the original hardware was rusted or broken off. I looked up the parts easily here on PartsSelect using their parts breakdown diagrams and was glad to see what I needed was still available. We had a licensed plumber relocate the hot water line and drain for us to make things a bit easier.
A licensed electrician had also moved the power line over to the new location and left a wire sticking out of the bottom of the wall to hardwire the dishwasher in again. We decided to convert the dishwasher to be able to be plugged into a standard 20amp wall outlet instead. We had already purchased a kit with a nice long cord and strain-relief snap on plastic fitting that snapped onto the metal incoming power box on the bottom front of the dishwasher. Using the supplied wire nuts, etc., we connected the wires and ground wire to the proper wires from the dishwasher and ground lug. We put the dishwasher aside and then went to work on converting the power wire coming out of the bottom of the wall, to a conventional outlet. I am mentioning all this because in our first attempt we unfortunately put the receptacle a bit high off the floor and the new power cord plug end, stuck out and hit the back of the dishwasher so it would not go all the way in and was sticking out from under the counter top. I tried using one of those flat adapter cables, but even that still stuck out to far. So we ended up relocating the outlet box as low as we could on the wall and this allowed the plug to stick out into the opening area at the bottom rear area of the dishwasher so it could now be slid all the way in under the kitchen counter properly. I hope that bit of trial and error will save you some time if you ever decide to go the pluggable route too.
The new installation required the use of the dishwasher side mount brackets, so we had to purchase a replacement set of those, complete with the hardware to screw them down.

This project took a bit longer than planned due to the power plug problem, one which we will remember for any other similar appliance relocation projects, as well as the time to get our new parts in that we had to order, but other than that the rest went smoothly and the dishwasher was relocated successfully.

Remove power source, then remove old power cord.Run new power cord through existing opening ang attach to existing power box on bottom o f dishwasher. Install electrical leads and device ground. Reinstall cabinet bottom. Check out operation by running a cycle. All ok!

Easy. Part just snapped in and took all of about a minute. Now the top rack doe snot slide back and forth.

followed directions, a kid could have done it,

Pushed to be into place

Pulled the dishwasher out and took the two door balance links off and put the new ones on and attached to the spring. It was very quick and easy

1st pull dishwasher out. attach the new cable to the spring. reinstall the spring on the frame. Use pliers to pull slack in the cable to attach the cable to the door. The hardest thing about the install was putting the screws in the side of the dishwasher to the cabinets.

remove the bottom plate with a nut driver and back off on the front leg adjusters. Slide out the dishwasher approx 8-10 inches and remove the broken link. The new one goes on easily. Look at the opposite side if in doubt as to how to attach. Slide the unit back in and tighten the leg adjusters until the unit is secure. reattach the lower front panel which hides the leg adjusters, etc. You're done!

I watched the provided video and followed the very easy installation instructions. It was awesome.

Unplugged dishwasher and turned off water supply. Removed bottom panel. Put rag under valve and unscrewed water inlet. Used ratchet and socket to remove screw from valve. Disconnected wires. Disconnected outlet. Installed new valve opposite of disassembly. Turned water back on. Plugged in and checked for leaks. Test ran.

I replaced the thermostat (part # PS11750035) along with the heating element (part # PS9494999) and the turbidity sensor (part # PS11757214). I also checked the filter (part # PS11759673) and it was very clean with no holes. The dishwasher still has water and soap suds standing in dishwasher after I ran it through different cycles. Also, when I run the sanitize cycle the sanitize light flashes red at the end. It doesn’t appear to completely filling with water. Also my hot water temperature is 130 degrees after running for 1 minute. I am at a loss! Any suggestions?

The 2 parts snap together .

I replaced the holder that connects the top dishwasher rack on the drawer slide. I took it apart carefully so I could remember how to assemble everything back. I did have trouble for a few minutes to get it clipped and I checked the opposite side. After I pondered it for a few moments and did a couple of trial runs at it, it magically slid into the slot, the other did, too, and it was good to go. So very, very pleased!

After Accessing Inner Panel of Door. Opened 8 Small Tang Clips Holding Unit. Cleaned Surface and Straightened Tangs. Popped Unit In Securely & Reassembled. Cleaned Drain Strainer to Load & Wash !

I just looked at the matching piece on the other side of the rack and used it as a guide to install the new part.