KDTM404EBS3 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

A Mouse friend had seen fit to chew through the original drain line. I used my Model Number, and was able to order the correct part . It arrived the next day. The job itself is fairly straight forward. You will need to access the rear of the machine. This may include shutting off, and disconnecting the water supply line. (Adjustable wrench). Mine is under the sink, on the "Hot" side. You may also need to un-plug the unit. (recommended) . A pair of (Pliers) will be needed for the spring clamp.

Following a utube video made it easy. Removed the outer cover of the door to expose latch. Two screws remove the latch, pay attention to how it was positioned and put the new one on and then replace the panel. But first turn off the electricity to the unit at the fuse box.

The repair was easy. First remove the entire rack from the dishwasher. There are three clips that hold the rack adjuster in place. It's relatively easy to see how to loosen the clips to remove the old rack adjuster. I took a couple of photos before I loosened the clips to help remember where they belong. When putting the rack adjuster it's important to move the rack height adjustment release lever up and down until the vertical part of the rack adjuster easily slides into the slot in the upper rack bracket. Once the rack adjuster in in it's proper location replace the three clips removed at the start of the procedure. Place the rack back into the dishwasher.

I looked up the repair on youtube and followed along step by step.
I am a 64 year old female and the job was easier to do while watching a repairman than it would have been to read instructions.
The internet is great for some things!

Removed old gasket, cleaned track thoroughly, then followed instructions from video on Part Select order form. Instructions very clear and precise. Getting the new gasket was a little tedious at the corners but take your time and work the gasket with your fingers as shown on the video.

It was easy to remove the old parts by using a screwdriver to push in “tabs” that kept retainer clips in place. Once removed, it was a matter of easy assembly in reverse and then re-clip. It became clear that the problem was because a few tabs that click into the sliding track and worn to the point where they no longer retained a tight connection to the track causing the upper rack to tilt with weight to front or back. Sure, the parts are a bit pricey but not when compared to a repair visit or a new KitchenAid which otherwise was functioning perfectly.

1) clear out the dishwasher
2) remove unit securing screws from top or sides of DW and cabinetry near the top or under the counter top
3) gently pull the dishwasher from the cabinetry about 20" is plenty, mind the connecting hoses and electrical connection
4) close the door! pull back the insulation from the area of the hinge and photograph both sides - this will save you the pain of going online
5) you will see the cord, the tensioning wheel assembly and the door balance spring on both sides
6) with the door closed to relieve tension on the cord, remove the cord from the balance spring - this can be done w/o tools at this point
7) remove the 5/16" screw from the plastic tensioning wheels and remove the tensioners, cord - leave the springs in place if not replacing them
8) install the door end of the cord to its hook on the hinge, install the new tensioning wheel assembly, install the old 5/16" self tapping screw through the lower wheel and into the outer hole in the frame
9) thread the cord from the door over the upper wheel and lower wheel. the lower wheel has cord retaining tabs to hold the cord on the assembly
10) hook the eye end of the cord to the balance spring and you are finished with the first side - repeat operations for the other side, reposition the insulation and slide the washer back in its cavity - do not forget to reinstall the stabilizing screws in the upper washer frame
11) you've done it!
12) have a cuppa and do your second washer that hasn't failed yet - it will soon.

Hardest part was figuring out how to release and remove upper rack as mine did not match the instructions. After that is was tricky but not overly difficult. The instructions on-line did not make sense, but it all was fairly intuitive process. Take some before pictures, lol. Dishwaswasher works great.

I did not relize that the drain hose was in two parts. Naturally I ordered the wrong half. So after I relized my mistake, I re-ordered the correct part. Once the correct part was received the repair was easy and went well.

Searched internet found a YouTube video not quite the same model but close enough to get me going and the steps were the same

I turned off the power to dishwasher first. Removed bottom plate to get to leveling legs. Lowered the legs as to be able to pull and skid dishwasher out from under counter.
Once dishwasher is removed from under locate the 4 screws on right side that hold racks remove them.
I would recommend replacing both skids on both side while you have the dishwasher pulled out.
Very easy to replace new rack slid once old rack removed.
The rack come assembled with skid and plastic holders.
This repair is a 10 minute repair per side.
Thanks Bob Seese

The old tine row came out easily and the new one was easy to pop into place. I was pleased that it was so easy to order a replacement part.

Unplug dishwasher and slide it out from under cabinet. Remove old broken link (a heavy string between two plastic parts) and replace with new one. Slide dishwasher back and plug it in. Very easy and no tools required.

repair went smooth for the grommet. suggest a small of vasoline to ease installation of grommet

I removed and reinstalled the new gasket per the video instructions, but I found the corners to be much harder to install than indicated. I finally used a large, flat, dull screwdriver to carefully push the gasket all the way in, and used my fingers to feel whether the gasket was all the way in. I figured if the gasket wasn't all the way in, I would have a leak at the bottom of the door because the top of the gasket would stick out farther than the bottom, which is exactly what the original symptoms were. Perhaps I didn't need a new gasket? There was no visible damage. Pushing in the corners of the original gasket may have fixed it, but the new gasket worked perfectly! Thanks, Part Select!!