KDTM404EBL3 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Still not sure it is repaired. Still have water leakage around upper edge of door on control data panel. We just experienced an issue with the auto drain system, the first since door seal repair and door latch replacement???? Is the latching mechanism suppose to secure the door?
If so it isn't?
Not a great success story. A new washer may be in the cards

Removed the old rack clips from the top rack, freeing the rack and removed the bracket holding the adjustable bracket

Replaced the rack bracket and hung the rack back onto the rails

Disconnected the damaged hose extension from the dishwasher outlet drain hose and the connection to the sink drain. Removed two clamps. One a spring clamp and the other a screw clamps. Connected the new extension hose with a spring clamp to the dishwasher outlet drain hose. Connected the other end to the sink drain with a screw clamp. Checked for leaks. Good to go!

Gently pull the old door seal out of it's track observing the orientation of the seal and the amount of extra seal at the ends of the seal grove/track..
Start installing the seal on one side leaving about the same amount of extra seal as original seal before removal.
Be sure the seals orientation is the same as the seal that was removed.
Carefully pressing the seal into the grove/track designed to hold the seal. Be careful to fully seat the seal into the grove/track.
The corners will be a little tricky, but carefully press and seat the new door seal all the way around. There should be a little extra seal after you get to the end of the grove/track.
Good luck, the new door seal solved my water leak.

The rubber door seal was easy after watching the video. I key point however is that you do have to stretch the seal just a little bit. The video says not to. If you don't like I didn't originally, the seal will only extend from one side to the other without about an inch excess that folds on the bottom of each side. The door still leaked a little without the excess folded on each side. I did one side at a time and pulled out the new seal along the side before curving to the top, and just stretch it slightly to allow the excess. This stopped the leak.

The lower door seal was ok to do. The most important step there is to remember how the front door panel is installed. Taking pictures before and during removal may help. It is awkward to do by yourself, but can be done. I found that putting a balled-up towel at the top of the door helps when trying to reinstall the front panel.

At first I thought I needed a new bottom rack for my dishwasher. Out of curiosity, I watched the installation video and realized that the Tine Row installed separately and that was the only part I needed. I am appreciative of being able to access that video and the money I saved. Installation took seconds to complete.

Removed old housing parts and replaced them with the new parts I ordered. Very easy

Removed the inner panel, remove electrical connection to dispenser, remove dispenser, metal tabs that hold it in, are a bit hard to pry metal tabs, and when installing net dispenser tabs are also a little difficult to pry tabs to install but doable. So far works like it should.

I did a Youtube search and discovered there were a couple that showed the replacement in detail. I watch the entire process once and then had my laptop beside the upper rack and paused the video after each step. That worked well

The 1st person i had contact with wasn't any help choosing the correct part. Paid about $30.00 for the wrong part. Paid $8.00 more to ship the wrong part back for reimbursement. Meanwhile my son went to a local repair shop and got the right part for less than $40 and the repair shop installed the part on the rack for free
I was not happy with Part Select! Part Select cost me time and money and didnt get the job done

Initial inspection of the issue and research suggested the door latch was malfunctioning / broken. I bought the part and expressed it home. The installation involved removing the door screws on the inside of the door, separating the front and back panels, unplugging the door latch, removing it from its niche and popping in the new one. Reverse the take apart and it was done. Very simple swap. Hardest part was juggling the two halves of the door and preventing the door for trying to close in the process as the bulk of the weight is in the outside half of the door.

The new part did not fix the issue. The door strike was the next part that could be broken / malfunctioning. I ordered that part as well and replaced it. In the process of replacing it I found that the original door strike had been installed upside down. I am guessing it was installed at just the right pitch, or maybe even bent at the manufacturing facility, so that it latched. No idea how it managed two years like that. I installed the new one correctly and the door latches perfectly. Both parts I removed from the unit I will retain if my new parts should fail in the future.

I closed the water at the tank and opened all the hot water faucets in the house thereby draining static water from the inlet hose at the valve. Then I unscrewed the inlet hose from the valve, unscrewed the valve body from the support bracket under the tub, unplugged the electrical plug from the valve body, and removed the outlet hose. I installed the new valve using the reverse sequence. Then I closed all the hot water faucets, turned on the hot water at the tank, and purged air from each of the faucets. I then started the dishwasher and ran it through a complete cycle, periodically checking it for leaks, and found none. Total time for uninstall and reinstall - about 30 minutes. Not bad for an 80 year old.

unplug, disconnect water, remove all screws holding the machine in the cabinet. slide out the machine to access the 4 bolts hold the rail. Have a prop to hold basket in place as you remove old rail> Plastic clips front and back, hold the basket to the rail. Be careful not to break, not include with the replacement rail. If you are not handy with tools and no insight...hire it done

Due to the way I installed the appliance originally it was not necessary to disconnect supply water nor the drain connections. When the cord broke the spring came out of the point of connection to the appliance. It some "finagelling" to reattach the spring.After some "select vocabulary" it hooked into the correct spot and the rest was history.

Popping out the old tine rows was very simple and required no tools. The only issue was that the spacing of the replacement tines was different from the original parts and there was not enough space between the tines and the basket to snap the clips back on to hold the tine row. I went to my band saw and cut the extended ends off of the clips and then they snapped into place perfectly. This would have been a 20 minute, no tool job if I didn't have to run to the band saw.