KDTM384EBS1 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

PartSelect intentionally shipped obsolete part that could not possibly fit a dishwasher. The part looked to be a rectangle door seal for a freezer/ref. You make it impossible to return the part. I find it interesting that you sent the correct install video and wrong part.
Suggestion: After you print a shipping label take a picture of the part and shipping label before it is boxed. The customer should not have to send you a picture of the wrong part and the serial number of the appliance for a refund. You did not need the serial number to ship it.

I will never use your company again William Dewberry

Pulled dishwasher out of compartment, removed all parts underneath. removed inner parts, removed pump assembly. Installed new pump assembly and grommet. Reassembled in reverse order, test ran and unit was operating normal and no leaks.

It was very easy.

Very easy. I removed the two screws on the base plate, then the two screws that attach the washer to the cabinet, and pulled the washer out of its slot. I installed the broken side and closely checked the other side and felt it didn't need repairing. I put it back together and the door works very well.

Thanks,
Ted K.

I located the water inlet valve underneath. After moving the dishwasher out from the cabinet, I tilted it . Then I disconnected the black hose with the pliers . Using the adjustable wrench I unscrewed the water feed to the valve . I then unscrewed the valve from the frame and disconnected the wire plug by unlocking and slipping it away from the valve. To install I did all this in reverse.

Replaced door latch

Simply take out the lower dishwasher rack, grab a pair of pliers and gently pry the old assembly off and snap the new assembly into place. It's very easy.

Replacing the rear wheel assembly isn't as easy as replacing the front, which took 5 minutes. You have to align the tine row, so it takes a few minutes more. But I'm a tiny woman with long nails, and if I can do it, you can do it!

Just watch the video, follow the directions, and you can't go wrong.

removed and installed cords with screw driver

1) Pull out dishwasher from under counter. 2) Disconnect spring located at the bottom on each side of dishwasher. 3) Using socket remove pulley wheels from each side at bottom. 4) Install new pulleys on each side. 5) Wind pulley cord around both wheels and attach to one end of the spring on each side. 6) Using pliers extend other spring end to lower frame of dishwasher on each side. 7) Open and close dishwasher door to test. 8) Replacement complete

Watch video and followed instructions. Very easy!

The 1st person i had contact with wasn't any help choosing the correct part. Paid about $30.00 for the wrong part. Paid $8.00 more to ship the wrong part back for reimbursement. Meanwhile my son went to a local repair shop and got the right part for less than $40 and the repair shop installed the part on the rack for free
I was not happy with Part Select! Part Select cost me time and money and didnt get the job done

Removed the upper rack and replaced both side with new upper rack adjusters that are now metal and not plastic!

In this case the dishwasher had already been installed for a few years. After removing it, we inspected it and saw it needed a bit of TLC. The transport wheels on the back were missing, making it harder to move around without scratching the tile and some of the original hardware was rusted or broken off. I looked up the parts easily here on PartsSelect using their parts breakdown diagrams and was glad to see what I needed was still available. We had a licensed plumber relocate the hot water line and drain for us to make things a bit easier.
A licensed electrician had also moved the power line over to the new location and left a wire sticking out of the bottom of the wall to hardwire the dishwasher in again. We decided to convert the dishwasher to be able to be plugged into a standard 20amp wall outlet instead. We had already purchased a kit with a nice long cord and strain-relief snap on plastic fitting that snapped onto the metal incoming power box on the bottom front of the dishwasher. Using the supplied wire nuts, etc., we connected the wires and ground wire to the proper wires from the dishwasher and ground lug. We put the dishwasher aside and then went to work on converting the power wire coming out of the bottom of the wall, to a conventional outlet. I am mentioning all this because in our first attempt we unfortunately put the receptacle a bit high off the floor and the new power cord plug end, stuck out and hit the back of the dishwasher so it would not go all the way in and was sticking out from under the counter top. I tried using one of those flat adapter cables, but even that still stuck out to far. So we ended up relocating the outlet box as low as we could on the wall and this allowed the plug to stick out into the opening area at the bottom rear area of the dishwasher so it could now be slid all the way in under the kitchen counter properly. I hope that bit of trial and error will save you some time if you ever decide to go the pluggable route too.
The new installation required the use of the dishwasher side mount brackets, so we had to purchase a replacement set of those, complete with the hardware to screw them down.

This project took a bit longer than planned due to the power plug problem, one which we will remember for any other similar appliance relocation projects, as well as the time to get our new parts in that we had to order, but other than that the rest went smoothly and the dishwasher was relocated successfully.

Per suggestions from other reviews, I looked for You Tube videos for replacing this part. The video I used was completely necessary, but moved way too fast, so required lots of stopping, rewinding and starting again. But I managed to get the old rack adjuster removed and the new one installed without too much trouble.
Then I tried installing it in the pull-out rail. The front connector on the new adjuster would not fit into the appropriate slot. Initially I thought maybe the part was defective, but determined that the dimensions were as accurate as my eye and tape measure could evaluate. Finally, I settled on the expedient of filing away at least 1/16" from one edge of the slot so that the connector would drop into place.
Not sure why this discrepancy existed but the problem appears to be resolved.