KDFE304DWH0 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed 2 screws that fasten dishwasher to underside of countertop. Pulled dishwasher out from under the countertop for access to sides. Hooked link on door, threaded cord around 2 wheels, hooked spring to back of dishwasher, stretched spring and hooked to eye on end of link cord. I found it very difficult to hook spring to link then try and stretch spring to hole at back of dishwasher. Easier to pull spring and link towards each other and connect. Note: This link was actually different from the original. The plastic end that connects to the door actually hits the first wheel when door is closed but it doesn't seem to prevent the door from locking properly (old design was better). However, I shaved this plastic end to provide better clearance.

Thought this would be much easier than it actually was. Long story short, ended up calling is an appliance professional to install the part.

Removed the old hose, after loosing metal looking rings. Installed new hose ad finally tight firmly the looking rings, using wrench and socket.

First, I bought the door balance link to replace the broken links that connect to the springs.

Because I didn't have enough slack to simply pull out the dishwasher far enough to reach the springs, I had to disconnect the water line and electrical wiring.
The only reason my repair took as long as it did was because there was so little room underneath the dishwasher for disconnecting the water line. I had to buy a shorter adjustable wrench. Also, I had leaks after reconnecting the water line. I had to tighten the compression nut as far as it would go. The nut wrapped around a white substance that had been applied to the threads (I believe this is called pipe tape), which did the trick for sealing the leak.

The repair was a complete success! The parts arrived fast and the information from other customers on the the PartsSelect website was invaluable.

I turned off the power to dishwasher first. Removed bottom plate to get to leveling legs. Lowered the legs as to be able to pull and skid dishwasher out from under counter.
Once dishwasher is removed from under locate the 4 screws on right side that hold racks remove them.
I would recommend replacing both skids on both side while you have the dishwasher pulled out.
Very easy to replace new rack slid once old rack removed.
The rack come assembled with skid and plastic holders.
This repair is a 10 minute repair per side.
Thanks Bob Seese

The water valve float lever was broke. So I replaced that and the water level switch. Probably didn’t have to replace switch. Very easy!!

I basically used the instructions provided with the "Your Order Has Shipped: email from you. It was quite easy. Thank You!.

Hardest part was pulling dishwasher away from cabinet, making sure to not disturb water and drain line. I replaced both door springs which are on the two sides and attached to the dishwasher frame towards the back. This necessiatated pulling the dishwasher about 2/3 out of cabinet. After attaching both springs to frame, replacing the balance kit was a breeze .One screw to remove and then replace with new pulley unit. Attach the supplied cord with attached fittings to spring and then around two pulleys and mounting point on frame. Done . Push dishwasher back into cabinet, reattach two screws to underside of counter. Probably did not require new springs as they seem heavy duty and were not broken upon examination but ordered them also and replaced just in case. Most problem would be with broken cord in balance link kit

The rinse aid cap fixed the problem of leaking rinse aid sta9n9ng the dishwasher every time. What an easy and cheap fix.

thought it could be due to the overfill control switch,so ordered one and replaced one in the washer. However, it did not solve the problem. Having a repair company coming to look at the dishwasher. Tipped the washer on its back and switch was readily accessable. Only had to open plastic covering over the switch, disconnect the wires and install new switch and reconnect the wires.

Pulled off the old rollers and snapped on the new ones. Easy as can be!

Removed old housing parts and replaced them with the new parts I ordered. Very easy

Two of the four small nylon/plastic tabs on the adjusters that support the top rack on the rack slides, broke off (one on each side).

Before the new parts arrived, I printed the limited (but definitely helpful) instructions that were available and familiarized myself with the adjuster assemblies.

As practice, I took one adjuster assembly apart making notes of any "gotchas." The main gotcha I found is that the nylon/plastic parts are easy to break (obviously) as prying is involved during removal and replacement. It took me about 20 to 25 minutes to take one side apart and about 10 minutes to put it back together again.

When the new parts arrived, I was able to do the first side in about 10 minutes (removal and replacement), and the second side in about 5 minutes, all because I had printed the instructions, familiarized myself, and practiced. I hope this helps.

simply line up the new pin with the rectangular slot in the kick panel and metal panel behind, slide the pin in and turn it with a flat blade screw driver.
NOTE: the original pin was black. A black replacement part cost $29 plus shipping! A knock-off pin was only $6 plus shipping. I got the cheap one and colored it with a black Sharpee marker before installation.

Pulled off old seal. Pressed into groove the new door seal. No parts required.