KDHE704DSS0 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Hardest part was pulling dishwasher away from cabinet, making sure to not disturb water and drain line. I replaced both door springs which are on the two sides and attached to the dishwasher frame towards the back. This necessiatated pulling the dishwasher about 2/3 out of cabinet. After attaching both springs to frame, replacing the balance kit was a breeze .One screw to remove and then replace with new pulley unit. Attach the supplied cord with attached fittings to spring and then around two pulleys and mounting point on frame. Done . Push dishwasher back into cabinet, reattach two screws to underside of counter. Probably did not require new springs as they seem heavy duty and were not broken upon examination but ordered them also and replaced just in case. Most problem would be with broken cord in balance link kit

I basically used the instructions provided with the "Your Order Has Shipped: email from you. It was quite easy. Thank You!.

The rinse aid cap fixed the problem of leaking rinse aid sta9n9ng the dishwasher every time. What an easy and cheap fix.

thought it could be due to the overfill control switch,so ordered one and replaced one in the washer. However, it did not solve the problem. Having a repair company coming to look at the dishwasher. Tipped the washer on its back and switch was readily accessable. Only had to open plastic covering over the switch, disconnect the wires and install new switch and reconnect the wires.

I turned off the power to dishwasher first. Removed bottom plate to get to leveling legs. Lowered the legs as to be able to pull and skid dishwasher out from under counter.
Once dishwasher is removed from under locate the 4 screws on right side that hold racks remove them.
I would recommend replacing both skids on both side while you have the dishwasher pulled out.
Very easy to replace new rack slid once old rack removed.
The rack come assembled with skid and plastic holders.
This repair is a 10 minute repair per side.
Thanks Bob Seese

Not a difficult repair, but made more difficult than it should have been by KitchenAid's decision to attach the track from the outside,rather than the inside. Remove the top and bottom racks (top rack just lifts off its tracks). After turning off power, remove the trim panel below the door, then open the door and undo the screws holding the tabs at the top where the dw is attached to the underside of the countertop. Lower the adjustment legs at the bottom front with an adjustable or sized end wrench. Assuming enough slack in the supply and drain hoses and power supply line, just pull the dishwasher about halfway out which will give access to the bolts holding the track mounts. You'll have to pull back the insulation to access the bolts. Then with a nut driver or socket wrench remove the bolts, put the new track in place and bolt in. Actual replacement takes less than five minutes. All the prep work to get to the mounting bolts is most of the work. If you have to disconnect the hoses or power it's a bit more, but I didn't have to do that. I made the mistake of only ordering the one track that failed (outraged that I have to replace this after only 5 years or so and too cheap to buy both), but in retrospect, I can see that I should have bought both. The opposite side is not in great shape and will need to be replaced at some point.
Not a difficult repair-well within most people's skill level. But really KitchenAid - either design the track to last longer or make it easy to replace without pulling the dw out!

The water valve float lever was broke. So I replaced that and the water level switch. Probably didn’t have to replace switch. Very easy!!

Removed old housing parts and replaced them with the new parts I ordered. Very easy

Two of the four small nylon/plastic tabs on the adjusters that support the top rack on the rack slides, broke off (one on each side).

Before the new parts arrived, I printed the limited (but definitely helpful) instructions that were available and familiarized myself with the adjuster assemblies.

As practice, I took one adjuster assembly apart making notes of any "gotchas." The main gotcha I found is that the nylon/plastic parts are easy to break (obviously) as prying is involved during removal and replacement. It took me about 20 to 25 minutes to take one side apart and about 10 minutes to put it back together again.

When the new parts arrived, I was able to do the first side in about 10 minutes (removal and replacement), and the second side in about 5 minutes, all because I had printed the instructions, familiarized myself, and practiced. I hope this helps.

Pulled off old seal. Pressed into groove the new door seal. No parts required.

Following the video was quick and easy. Without the video it would have been slow and painful.

Pull the old seal out and push the new seal in. Done. Easy. The only issue is the door is still leaking and I have to replace the seal and the plate that goes across the bottom of the door.

Order both this seal and the seal for the bottom of the door at the same time.

I watched online repair video for replacing the part. 3 different clips held the part in place. Video showed how to properly remove each clip & also how to put them back on once part is replaced. Video was immensely helpful because I was afraid I break something else trying o remove them! I ordered & replaced the part by myself without help from my husband. My daddy would've been so proud. :)

1) clear out the dishwasher
2) remove unit securing screws from top or sides of DW and cabinetry near the top or under the counter top
3) gently pull the dishwasher from the cabinetry about 20" is plenty, mind the connecting hoses and electrical connection
4) close the door! pull back the insulation from the area of the hinge and photograph both sides - this will save you the pain of going online
5) you will see the cord, the tensioning wheel assembly and the door balance spring on both sides
6) with the door closed to relieve tension on the cord, remove the cord from the balance spring - this can be done w/o tools at this point
7) remove the 5/16" screw from the plastic tensioning wheels and remove the tensioners, cord - leave the springs in place if not replacing them
8) install the door end of the cord to its hook on the hinge, install the new tensioning wheel assembly, install the old 5/16" self tapping screw through the lower wheel and into the outer hole in the frame
9) thread the cord from the door over the upper wheel and lower wheel. the lower wheel has cord retaining tabs to hold the cord on the assembly
10) hook the eye end of the cord to the balance spring and you are finished with the first side - repeat operations for the other side, reposition the insulation and slide the washer back in its cavity - do not forget to reinstall the stabilizing screws in the upper washer frame
11) you've done it!
12) have a cuppa and do your second washer that hasn't failed yet - it will soon.

Hardest part was figuring out how to release and remove upper rack as mine did not match the instructions. After that is was tricky but not overly difficult. The instructions on-line did not make sense, but it all was fairly intuitive process. Take some before pictures, lol. Dishwaswasher works great.