KUDS25SEBL0 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

This gets a little lengthy... but it explains where Cascade Dishwashing Powder came up with its brand name - it's been a cascade project.
I started by replacing the Middle Wash Arm Tube as the old tube developed leaks. As others have stated this is a new design but directly replaceable and easy to do.
This didn't solve the cleaning issue so reading the experiences of others on this site realized I also had broken parts in the Upper Spray Arm Assembly and the Upper Wash assembly. I replaced these and the dishes were suddenly much, much cleaner. These were very easily replaced.
I did find that I did not need the Mount for the upper spray arm (PS402277) as a redesign of the Upper Spray Arm Mounting bracket no longer required it - the bracket simply clipped in -the diagram was out of date.
Everything seemed to go well for about 3 loads when the dishwasher started leaking heavily out of the bottom of the door. I then noticed that the lower Wash Arm Bearing Ring and the Seal, Lower Spray Arm had disintegrated so I replaced those but this didn't affect the leaking. Someone had stated that if the lower wash arm assembly had too much 'wobble' that it cause 'waves' that would leak out the front door... mine had some wobble so I added a nylon washer from Ace Hardware that reduced wobble but still leaked.
I then replaced the Door Seal Kit - this was by far the most difficult part as the door needed to be removed and it was somewhat difficult - and it seemed apparent after we had removed the door that these parts weren't the problem but we replaced them anyway.
Also, someone else had noted that they had to attach the door seal (this is NOT the gasket that goes around the door opening) with a sealant - I had the same problem; the original seal fit tightly with friction but the new replacement required an adhesive - I used silicone. Still leaked.
From here on I can't guaratee any useful information: I took the strainer screen out of the bottom of the dishwasher and found one slightly loose screw holding what I believe is the 'pump outlet' according to the diagram. I had also read that the water fill is controlled not by the float at the bottom of the washer but by the electronics and it was suggested that I disconnect the DW from the power to 'reset' the timer, this I did and hit the 'Cancel' cycle a couple of times to make sure that all programs were cancelled. Whether any of this made a difference I have no idea - except that the dishwasher suddenly stopped leaking and hasn't leaked a drop for at least 20 washes. So I don't know, for sure, why it leaked or how I fixed it, but it's working and washing great now - except the tines on the lower rack are beginning to rust out and breaking off. The rack is pretty expensive but so far I've saved a lot of money and my family thinks I'm a dishwasher genius.

Managed to open the dishwasher without breaking anything else! 1ST TURN OFF THE POWER SUPPLY AT THE BREAKER BOX,SAFETY IS PARAMOUNT! Took the kick plate off at the bottom, unscrewed the bottom of the front panel and removed the interior door screws. Removed top panel with the circuit board attached, be very careful doing this as you can destroy the circuit board if it cracks or bends.Unplug it and set it aside. remove the broken door handle and insert the new one with the simple metal and spring mechanism. put it all together in reverse order. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN ANY OF THE SCREWS OR YOU CAN STRIP THEM AND HAVE MORE PROBLEMS! I have to say I was surprised how quickly the part arrived during some of the worst weather conditions up north. Very pleased!

I disasembled the inner door and replaced the door switches with new ones.

I removed inner face of door, cut wires leading to door switches, and then installed the new door switches and wire harness.

I removed the rubber boot on the top of the water dispersal unit ( stainless steel wand ) by turning it counterclockwise and the wand came off with ease. I then removed the top unit under it by removing the 8 torx screws and removed it. Under the unit is a cover with 1 torx screw to be removed and removed the cover to access the unit. I was unable to loosen the 1/4" nut on the shaft as it was very tight so I had to remove the unit and lock the motor armature with a piece of wood and removed the bolt. Using the kit I purchased I installed the new parts as required and it works as good as new.

The whole problem started with the upper vent on the door being plugged up with a whole bunch of labels that had been washed off of a bunch of tin cans that were washed prior to recycling them. Te high water float was also gummed up for the same reason and overflowed on the floor, I pulled it up and out and cleaned it up also, it works as good as new.

My wife noted wood floor bucking up around dishwasher - pulled dishwasher out from counter, tipped it on it's side, looked underneath, & noted slight corrosion on top of motor -

Took motor/pump assembly completely off of dishwasher (comes out from the bottom) by flipping four little plastic cams on motor to the side & then took pump apart (starting at top & working down) till I got to the impeller/motor shaft seal.

Found plastic impeller worn through into two pieces & little spring thingy under the grinder-upper thingy broken.

Ordered Drain & Wash Impeller kit - got it a few days later - installed (new motor shaft seal didn't seem to be quite the same as far as fit, so I didn't use it - just used the impeller & new spring thingy)

Put it all back together & runs fine - no more leaks - (now just have to figure out what to do about warped wood flooring - oh well, it's old & is probably time for whole new kitchen floor anyway)

Note: This particular Kenmore model made by Whirlpool - takes Whirlpool parts.

Note 2: Needed only screwdrivers to do this whole thing - would have been a really quick/easy repair if I had known what the problem was & how it all comes apart. took a little time to figure it out. (I am a rank amateur at dishwasher repair)

Removed dishwasher lower faceplate.
Removed hose clamp at the dishwasher end.
Removed clamp at the garbage-disposal end.
Removed hose.
Pulled new hose.
Connected both ends of the hose.
Installed both clamps.
Tested.

Put wheels on new bottom rack and put back in dishwasher. Like that the back racks can lie down for pots and large dishes. Removed the the wash arm and replaced the ring. Too easy

Removed the 4 screws that hold on the 2 lower front covers. Removed the old broken spring with just my fingers. Put the new spring in, again, with just my fingers. Put the two covers back on. I didn't even need to slide the unit out from under the counter!

The mounting bracket was broken.

The parts ordered were a direct match due to the fantastic pictures supplied on this site.
A dealer wanted to order it and then I would have had to drive and pick it up - no way.

partselect.com first time user - very easy.

Normal handle replacemnt would have been by removeing the screws on the inside panel to release the front panel and permit access to the handle location.

The door being latched closed required aceesing from the exterior by removing all of the outer screws and outide panel, removing all of the interior components and then reaching the latch from outside. A most difficult process. Some other plastic clips were broken in this process.

Once the door latch was released, normal acces was easily gained and replacing the handle was relatively easy. After everything was reinstalled, the top outside pane was loose because the broken clips no longer held the panel in place. A self tapping screw, although visable but not too noticeable, holds the panel secure.

The unit is over 11 years old and plastic is not very durable. The handle was subject to being broken by normal everyday useage. A metal part would have been much better a design for this item.

I turned off the circuit. I removed the interior side of the door and then the plastic covering over the electrical wires and switches (I counterbalanced the door with a couple of half gallon juice containers). I removed the wires attached to the switch on the door handle and the door handle itself. The handle and switch parts disassembled and I replaced the switches (part of kit). I cut off the singed wire and the other three beyond the damaged portion and stripped the wires and connected the extensions (part of kit). I attached the new wires to the switches and closed up the interior door. Lastly, I turned the circuit breaker back on. All was well!

Just followed the instructions and used the old one as template to snap components together. Quality seems to be same as the original one and Part Select was some 15% plus less expensive then next best competitor

Directions were somewhat generic, but clear enough to figure out that I had to remove the toe plate and front cover below the main door to disconnect the two springs that held the door in tension. I then removed the old door seal (really a splash guard), and scraped off some scum. Then I pried apart a metal tab on each side of the door to facilitate lifting up on the two hinge rods on the door to get to the two corner water diverter pieces that really keep the water in the dishwasher. These two pieces deteriorate over time like the splash guard. The reverse assembly process was simple, NO LEAKS.

After doing some research in a repair book I decided to take a stab with a water inlet valve. With expedited shipping I ordered the part and within three days it was delivered. I installed it and the dishwasher seemed like it was trying to fill but still would not. After much cocnsternation I turned the water supply valve to the dishwasher a partial turn to close and I felt the water rush through the valve and the dishwasher then filled. Apparently the shut off valve must have been clogged plus it now leaked. I then replaced the shutoff valve and the copper pipe to the water inlet valve with flexible 3/8" tubing and the dishwasher thus far is running fine without leaks.