KDTE304DPA2 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed old tine rows and replaced with the new parts. No tools were needed. Each was replaced one at a time so the old ones could serve as a model for how the new ones were inserted and attached. Not much more complicated than changing a light bulb. Parts appear to be good original equipment quality but quite pricy for these very simple pieces.

Removed screws holding dishwasher in place. This dishwasher has one one the left and right side after you open the door hidden behind a plastic hole cover that you can pry out of place with a putty knife or some other thin tool. After this pull the dishwasher out about halfway and there are 4 screws on each side of the dishwasher (on the outside) that hold the top track assemble. Just unscrew these with the appropriate sized socket, remove the old track and screw in the new track. Super easy. Anybody can do this.

I followed the video on the site and it worked perfectly!

Pulled off old seal. Pressed into groove the new door seal. No parts required.

I watched online repair video for replacing the part. 3 different clips held the part in place. Video showed how to properly remove each clip & also how to put them back on once part is replaced. Video was immensely helpful because I was afraid I break something else trying o remove them! I ordered & replaced the part by myself without help from my husband. My daddy would've been so proud. :)

Pulled off old seal found center of new seal and pushed new seal into channel that old seal came out of starting at top middle underneath the latch

I simply had to hook up the power cord to the dishwasher so i could plug it into the outlet rather than direct wire the appliance. Everything went very smoothly. Everything needed for installation other than tools was provided. Easy to follow instructions if you know a little about electrical wiring.

Pulled dishwasher out from under the counter, removed faulty seal, installed new seal. Easy to understand directions are on web site.

Turned off power to the dishwasher. Removed the front panel via the screws on the inner wall of the door. Lifted and pulled out the front panel. Disconnected cable connections to fully remove the front panel. Pressed down on the latches to the left and right side of the door latch. Pulled out the door latch. Put in new door latch until it clicked into place. Reattached cable connections. Put the front panel back on with the screws. Turned back on power to the dishwasher.

Removed 2 screws that fasten dishwasher to underside of countertop. Pulled dishwasher out from under the countertop for access to sides. Hooked link on door, threaded cord around 2 wheels, hooked spring to back of dishwasher, stretched spring and hooked to eye on end of link cord. I found it very difficult to hook spring to link then try and stretch spring to hole at back of dishwasher. Easier to pull spring and link towards each other and connect. Note: This link was actually different from the original. The plastic end that connects to the door actually hits the first wheel when door is closed but it doesn't seem to prevent the door from locking properly (old design was better). However, I shaved this plastic end to provide better clearance.

thought it could be due to the overfill control switch,so ordered one and replaced one in the washer. However, it did not solve the problem. Having a repair company coming to look at the dishwasher. Tipped the washer on its back and switch was readily accessable. Only had to open plastic covering over the switch, disconnect the wires and install new switch and reconnect the wires.

Actually, I found a video on Youtube with excellent instructions once you got past the really simple stuff like disconnecting power and water and drain.
I would recommend just finding a fairly similar model on Youtube and follow their directions. It was really easy.

I basically used the instructions provided with the "Your Order Has Shipped: email from you. It was quite easy. Thank You!.

Two of the four small nylon/plastic tabs on the adjusters that support the top rack on the rack slides, broke off (one on each side).

Before the new parts arrived, I printed the limited (but definitely helpful) instructions that were available and familiarized myself with the adjuster assemblies.

As practice, I took one adjuster assembly apart making notes of any "gotchas." The main gotcha I found is that the nylon/plastic parts are easy to break (obviously) as prying is involved during removal and replacement. It took me about 20 to 25 minutes to take one side apart and about 10 minutes to put it back together again.

When the new parts arrived, I was able to do the first side in about 10 minutes (removal and replacement), and the second side in about 5 minutes, all because I had printed the instructions, familiarized myself, and practiced. I hope this helps.

Gently pull the old door seal out of it's track observing the orientation of the seal and the amount of extra seal at the ends of the seal grove/track..
Start installing the seal on one side leaving about the same amount of extra seal as original seal before removal.
Be sure the seals orientation is the same as the seal that was removed.
Carefully pressing the seal into the grove/track designed to hold the seal. Be careful to fully seat the seal into the grove/track.
The corners will be a little tricky, but carefully press and seat the new door seal all the way around. There should be a little extra seal after you get to the end of the grove/track.
Good luck, the new door seal solved my water leak.