KDTM504EPA0 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Still not sure it is repaired. Still have water leakage around upper edge of door on control data panel. We just experienced an issue with the auto drain system, the first since door seal repair and door latch replacement???? Is the latching mechanism suppose to secure the door?
If so it isn't?
Not a great success story. A new washer may be in the cards

PartSelect intentionally shipped obsolete part that could not possibly fit a dishwasher. The part looked to be a rectangle door seal for a freezer/ref. You make it impossible to return the part. I find it interesting that you sent the correct install video and wrong part.
Suggestion: After you print a shipping label take a picture of the part and shipping label before it is boxed. The customer should not have to send you a picture of the wrong part and the serial number of the appliance for a refund. You did not need the serial number to ship it.

I will never use your company again William Dewberry

Remove power source, then remove old power cord.Run new power cord through existing opening ang attach to existing power box on bottom o f dishwasher. Install electrical leads and device ground. Reinstall cabinet bottom. Check out operation by running a cycle. All ok!

followed directions, a kid could have done it,

Pulled the dishwasher out and took the two door balance links off and put the new ones on and attached to the spring. It was very quick and easy

Pushed to be into place

Easy. Part just snapped in and took all of about a minute. Now the top rack doe snot slide back and forth.

Removing and installing the new part was fairly simple. We removed the water hose first since it is the easiest to see. We then removed the screw holding the part to the metal frame. We slid out the part out of the holder to remove the black hose and electric plug (it is like the old phone jacks). After it was completely off we plugged in the electric to the new part which was very easy since it can only go in one way. We slid the new part in place and attached the black hose. We attached the piece to the frame with the one screw and last we attached the gold (garden hose) connection. We turned on the water to look for any leaks then turned the power on and ran it through a partial rinse to be sure there were no leaks.

Unscrewed mounting screw at top and bottom of duahwasher, pulled out dishwasher could see the pully on one side had broken. installed new part put dishwasher back in place and rescrewed mounting screws.

Disconnect top screws
Pull dishwasher out halfway
Notice how the other side is connected
Thread cord, use pliers to pull spring to connect.

Received the part. No instructions came with it. Luckily it was pretty simple to figure out. i removed the appliance from under the counter, saw how the part was attached on the other side and simply replaced the other side that was broken. Easy.

The repair itself was relatively easy. I basically only had to remove the two screws that were securing the diswasher to the cabinetry, disconnected the water line and extended the diswasher out approximately 10 inches. I then replaced the part by hooking the new cable assembly to the spring and using pliers expanded the spring so I could snake the other end of the cable through the pulleys and attach it to the door. The otherside was my guide. This part should be modified to replace the two plastic ends with metal counterparts. This would allow the part to have a longer life especially in my case since the plastic end broke and not the cable itself.

Removed the bottom cover plates.
Removed the screws holding in the dishwasher.
Removed old single moving roller and replaced with newly designed double rollers.
Installed link(string).
Replaced other side rollers and link.
Reinstalled dishwaser.

followed your very well done video clip exactly.

First we removed the two screws up under the countertop that secured the dishwasher in place. Next we pulled the d/w out from under the counter, having to unplug the power cord and feeding the drain hose into the d/w cavity from under the kitchen sink to allow this. On each side, attached to a metal spring was a nylon cord with plastic attachments that ran through two plastic pullies/wheels. The plastic piece on one of the nylon cords had broken...only on one side, so we were able to just look at the 'good' side to see how to attach and string the repair part through again. We pushed the d/w back in, made sure the drain hose under the kitchen sink wasn't kinked by pulling it back under the sink from the d/w cavity, plugged it in, replaced the two securing screws and were done. The old cord running through the pullies had always creaked when the door was opened, so while the d/w was out, we coated it w/ WD40. Piece-of-cake!