KUDP02IRWH4 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

This kit comes with the link cords and the balance wheels. I only needed the cords. I undid the set screws under the counter edge and slid the Dishwasher out from under the counter. One of the links had a broken cord and the spring had snapped to the very back of the space and was a bit hard to find. I used the good side as a guide to see how to thread the cord correctly. I did not replace the wheels since they appeared to be in good shape and looked like they might be a bit more difficult to replace than just the cord. For a second I thought I had ordered the wrong part because the new cord's attachment point at the hinge did not look exactly like the originals but the new design worked just like the original. I did need one other person to help stretch the spring and hold the door in the best position so I could attach the cord to the hinge. It's working perfectly now and I saved the wheels in case I need them later.

The upper spinner was laying in the top washer basket. I went online but no help was avaiable. Went to store where we purchased dishwasher and they gave me part number to order but not online I had to call to order. Part arrived in about three days. I took two screws loose on the top of dishwasher removed broke retainer to put new retainer in but I drop it into dishwasher so you have to me very careful
so I tried to order just the retainer but is not sold by it self. Had to order whole new kit. Other than that it is easy dishwasher runs like a new one.

Needed to replace whole soap dispenser unit. Had to take front door apart cause the hex screws are on the inside. (10 Screws) then doors falls off onto floor if not careful. Spring loaded inner door wants to go up and outside door wants to fall off pulling on wiring. Unplug wiring to solinoid,(plug has locking release lever that needs to be pulled on) remove 6 hex screws, and dispenser comes out. Install new unit with 6 screws, plug in, and get help holding door parts together while installing the 10 screws. You are now finished. Pros are you get the complete unit, and not a bunch of parts. Cons are no diagrams or instructions/no new 6 hex head screws-reuse old ones. . . . . . Do not use soap powder/causes damage to latch parts/use only liquid soaps. . .

Remove front door panel, replace B-metal fuse.

Just snapped the new retainer onto the side tines. It holds the rear tines upright on the bottom dishrac.

too simple to describe

Be sure to shut the power off before you attempt this first step, there are electrical connections all around this area. At first I didn't realize to get at the door handle I only to remove the top four screws on the inside of the door. After figuring this out the job was fairly easy. Once inside the top part of the door, all I had to do was snap off the old handle and snap in the new one. Test it to see if it works before you shut the door.

Replace motor/pump assembly

Shut off circut breaker. . . Removed 6 screws. . . Lifted cover over control board. . . Removed old control board. . Installed new board. . Replaced cover and the 6 screws. . Turned on circut breaker. . . Turned washer on. . . . It worked. Thank you for the quick delivery!

I peeled off the old seal and replaced with the new seal. The instructions were clear and easy to follow, however the new seal made the door not stay closed as the friction catch at the top was no strong enough to overcome the tension of the door closed with the new seal.

There were explicit instructions on the way the seal was to work with the sealed edge spreading into the tub area as the door closed. I was very careful to follow those instructions and made sure to seat the seal carefully. After I reinstalled the seal three times to see if I could get it to seat properly, as a last ditch effort I reversed the seal to the opposite way the instructions indicated and it worked with the door closing properly and the seal didn't leak.

Based on looking at the old seal and how it was originally installed, I actually think the seal was out of spec for the unit. However, if it isn't leaking that is what it's all about so we will see how long it holds.

removed old rack adjusters by prying remaining fasteners with a screwdriver, then installed new ones with steel screws. Very simple, and adjusters are better than new now.

Although the lower rack was a slightly different style than our original, it fit the dishwasher perfectly. We needed to transfer the silverware racks to the new rack and insert one set of removable tines. About 5 minutes and we are very happy with the repair.

The repair was really easy. First disconnected electricity staring with fuses and removing wires from dishwasher, then disconnected drain hose and water hose. Pulled it out and removed pump turning clockwise no need for tools and same way installed new one. Very easy

Pulled everything out the front, and dug down to find a thrashed chopper assembly (like a little garbage disposal). The previous owner just tossed anything in; pop tops, plastic cutlery, etc.
Didn't pay attention to the exact installation of the chopper as I pulled it out, but, it turns out that it only goes in one way.
Used pictures and instructions I found online as a guide and didn't have any issues.
Replaced the check valve because it isn't expensive and I was in the neighborhood.

I followed the PartSelect video to replace the feed tube assembly with spinner and the spray arm seal for the middle wash arm. Washing performance was better, but a couple weeks later the dishes on the bottom rack suddenly stopped getting clean. I decided I probably needed a new chopper assembly, which is identified by PartSelect as the cause of problem for 48% of the cases of dishes not getting clean. Before ordering the chopper assembly, however, I followed the video about how to replace the chopper assembly to determine whether the chopper assembly seemed to be worn out (the video shown at https://www.partselect.com/PS11722146-Whirlpool-W10083957V-Chopper-Assembly.htm). It was worse than I anticipated. I found the holes of the chopper assembly screen blocked by food, and the spinner in front of the screen had broken apart. In addition to finding the pieces of the broken chopper assembly, I discovered a treasure chest of debris, including about 8 pieces of broken glassware, 3 twister ties, a half-inch button, a 3/4-inch screw, and dozens of small pieces of metal. I poured water into the area and used a kitchen baster to suck out the water with all the pieces of debris, finishing the clean-up with paper towels. I ordered a new chopper assembly to replace the broken one, and the part arrived in under 48 hours. I relied on the same video to install the new chopper assembly. The only tricky challenge was getting the new chopper assembly back into place. I first tried needle nose pliers in two sizes, as recommended in the video, but what worked much better for me was using two chop sticks that were each about 1/4 inch square from top to bottom. Needle nose pliers are slanted, but the chopsticks did not vary in thickness and separated the screen from the spinner an even distance apart, making it easier to get the gear shaft on the chopper assembly to align in a straight line with the gear shaft on the pump motor. I also rotated the two gear shafts so the gears of the chopper assembly would mesh correctly with the gears of the pump motor shaft. The video cannot show that step very well because the man's hand blocks vision of how exactly to fit the chopper assembly into place. The video also fails to warn about possible debris around the chopper assembly and to explain how to clean out the debris. After finishing installing the chopper assembly my 14-year-old dishwasher cleaned my dishes as well as a new dishwasher. I spent a total of $110.24 on parts and shipping and invested a couple of hours total. The alternative would have been to spend $800 on a new dishwasher or wash dishes by hand. I am very, very happy with the outcome.