KUDM01TJWH1 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

A Mouse friend had seen fit to chew through the original drain line. I used my Model Number, and was able to order the correct part . It arrived the next day. The job itself is fairly straight forward. You will need to access the rear of the machine. This may include shutting off, and disconnecting the water supply line. (Adjustable wrench). Mine is under the sink, on the "Hot" side. You may also need to un-plug the unit. (recommended) . A pair of (Pliers) will be needed for the spring clamp.

Removed drain hose to ensure no blockage in drain. No blockage, then removed drain pump cap (where drain hose attaches to drain pump) with allen wrench. Push tab in on drain pump and twist counterclockwise, drain pump came off. Reversed to attach new pump and it works.

Grabbed old seal and removed it.(notice how seal was situated in slot)

Pushed new seal in slot that held old seal. close door.

If dishwasher still leaks you put the seal in backward (I did!)remove seal reverse it and reinsert it.

Partial disassembly determined thar the plastic handle was broken and a tensnioning spring was missing (had fallen out of reach within door) Ordered new replacement parts and received next day. Great delivery service. Installed in short time by removing four screws, disconnecting two wires and reversing procedures to reassemble. Finding parts on line was a great help and the delivery service was great,

I removed the dishwasher from under the counter. This took the bulk of the repair time along with disconnecting the water supply and electrical connection. I had enough slack in drain hoses that I could turn the dishwasher over to replace the motor. I was surprised that there was only one bolt that held the motor in place. I put the motor on, turned the dishwasher upright and slide it back unde the counter and began the long process ofreconnecting everything. I am sureit could have gone faster if I were younger and did not need glasses for close work. Start to finish took me four hours. This was the fourth time I have replaced motors in dishwashers of various makes.

Checked the house circuit breaker, verified AC to the box under the dishwasher, removed the screws around the inside door cover, and removed the cover. Removed the outer circuit board cover. Used a multi-meter to verify AC to the door latch, and to verify the latch switch was working. Verified AC to the thermal fuse above the circuit board when the door latch was closed. Verified no AC on the other side of the thermal fuse. Removed the thermal fuse connections with pliers. Used thin flat blade screw driver to unsnap the thermal fuse assembly. Used multi-meter to verify no continuity through the fuse. Ordered the fuse assembly and replaced. Reconnected the thermal fuse connections. Manually closed door switch and saw lights on the display panel, and dishwasher started. Replaced all covers and works great.

First research then troubleshoot
Removed
1 Upper rack
2 Lower rack
3 Lower Wash Arm and Strainer Parts
4 Upper Wash and Rinse Parts
5 Accumulator assy.
6 Motor shield
7 Inlet protector (most difficult)
Noticed blade was broken off chopper assy.
Replaced chopper assy.
Runs and cleans like new.
Most difficult step was to remove Inlet protector
After removing two torx screws (#15) used small pry bar to lift inlet protector from position. Not easy to accomplish with hands alone. Inlet protector fits tightly into position.

Found the gasket to be wearing out. Once I got the part I took everything apart inside to find that I could have just taken the dishwasher out and replaced from the bottom. It was not difficult, but I've installed a ton of dishwashers. For the average homeowner, this is can be a difficult job since it requires plumbing and electrical skills.

Replaced track on left side.

Need torx to remove front panel. There are four screws that hold the control panel that don't need to be removed. If you do remove them, it helps to put the control panel back before you reinstall the front. The six screws that hold the soap dispenser are a very small hex (<1/4, maybe 3/16). It would help to have some small sockets or nut drivers handy for this.

The door balance is easy.

Replaced the switch, that did not fix it, but a new circuit card did

Removed back of door to access the screws holding on the air inlet. The top of the door with the controls does not need to be removed, I found out--only the bottom part. Accessing the 5 screws was difficult as there was no space to get the socket onto the screws at a 90 degree angle. Also, there are two plastic shields that fall off when you remove the inlet that need to be replaced, with difficulty because of the accessibility to the area.

PartSelect site is excellent and finding the correct part was relatively simple, although I was not absolutely sure I ordered the right part until it arrived--only one day after ordering, although I paid for the least S&H option.

After replacing broken door cables I had a small leak at the door corner. I replaced door seal with that not fixing the leak and found that the door hinges were bent a little from the cables being broke for awile. Installed new hinges and leak is fixed now. A little difficult but once unit was pulled out about 6 inches the hinges were not bad to replace

I removed the old seal and carefully cleaned the track into which the seal was fixed. No tools other than some ordinary cleaning liquid, cloth and small wooden piece to swab out the track. Easy and quick. As a note here, I first used the incorrect schematic for the unit and ordered the wrong seal. However after receiving the wrong part, I made the correction and reordered. I did this over the phone as I needed instructions to return the part. The person taking my order and answering my questions was very helpful and I want to take this opportunity to thank her.

removed old fastener part (broken) from bracket

placed new fastener above bracket

aligned spray arm below bracket

snapped lower fastener part into place

couldnt be easier so long as you have two capable hands and eyesight