KUDI24SEAL1 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

replaced spray arm, but this did not resolve the problem. The troubleshooting guid (inside kick panel) indicated the check valve may be stuck. We had quite a bit of lime build up, so I suspected the loose deposits may be stuck. I removed all of the deposits, disassembled the lower unit.
Removed lower spray arm, removed spry tube. The tube is two pieces. first the upper portion must be removed (two screws-place towel on base of tub to preven screws from falling into the chopper area), and then the lower portion simply rotates clockwise 1/8 of a turn. The attachment for lower spray arm has a small plastic bearing, careful not to drop it.
The dishwaser then had to be pulled out and turned on the side. I removed the entire lower unit by removing the white tabs (3). Careful, because the unit is now free to drop into the tub. Next I removed the pump. This is tricky as you have to remove the aluminimum bracket to get to the mountin bolt. The bolt turns out easily w/socket and extension. The pump motor is then rotated counter clockwise, and pulled from the pump. Takes a little force as the gasket makes for a tight fit.
I then removed the choper / pump unit from the basin. The build up behind the chopper screen was extensive, so I had to remove the screen and then the chopper cover. After cleaning, the check valve was unplugged and I reassembled the unit.

Dishwasher works great now.

Removed old phillips head screws /w washers from spray arm kit and mounting bracket. (You'll need to keep one screw/washer set.) Attached new mounting bracket and screwed securely. Attached spray arm with new screw/washer and I was good to go. Piece of cake!

Peal and stick.

Removed the old mount from the upper rack. Removed the broken stem from the old mount that was attached to the arm. Attached the new mount to the spray arm. Attached the mount and arm to the rack.

Simply followed the instructions that were provided with the part.
Locking the inside vented piece to the outside assembly was difficult because it is located deep along the side of the dishwater (leverage) and I was not sure how much pressure to apply to the part for fear of breaking it. But it did snap into place after several attempts.

I looked up the part on the Internet and checked locally. The part had to be ordered locallybso I placed my order on line. The part came quickly and the instructions were fairly clear. The parts just clipped together which made it vey easy to so and it is nicer than the rack we had before.

I had replaced the control board a month or two earlier. Then smelled plastic burning. I noticed the Sta-con connecters in the molex plug had burned - that's what took out the control board. The fuse assembly came with new connectors - so you know this is a known problem with the machine. If you're handy you can buy the thermal fuse from Newark for $0.88 and replace it by soldering - but you need to replace the sta-cons. They corrode and the bad connection causes the heat making the thermal trip.

Removed 2 screws that held the old mount and washer arm in place, new mount was very easy to install, it snapped in, only one screw needed, remounted the washer arm and the job was done. I was really impressed with the ease of ordering and how quick it got here (3 days), also the scematics you have online are very helpful. I printed them out since I don't have the owners manual any longer, they're very helpful in matching up and ordering the right part which saves a lot of time, also I like the way you can just search by model number and appliance name to find the right parts, makes the entire process really easy. I know I will continue to shop here when the need arises. It really cuts down on expensive repair costs.

Hey parts select, I'm Julia's husband and the repair was a simple remove and replace. Only one screw to hold the manifold together and the mounting hardware that we had to order separately was a snap in piece which was different form the original but went in just fine. You saved me from having to buy a new dishwasher which Julia was more than happy to go shopping for!! Thanks!!

I simply had to hook up the power cord to the dishwasher so i could plug it into the outlet rather than direct wire the appliance. Everything went very smoothly. Everything needed for installation other than tools was provided. Easy to follow instructions if you know a little about electrical wiring.

Put in both a new element and thermostat. Did not fix problem. Using an ohm meter I did not measure any voltage to the thermostat. Suspect it’s a problem in the control unit, and decided to replace dishwasher.

Once the covers under the door are removed, the check valve is visible (unless its too dark, hence the headlight), and pointing right at you. Since I was working under the dishwasher, I gathered all the tools I thought I might need and laid them on the floor next to. Removed 2 covers, placed pan under check valve and hose to catch any water, squeezed clamp with (wrong) pliers, it eventually came loose. Carefully twisted hose off check valve. Water came out, some of it got into the pan, most of it on the floor. I guess I should have pumped it out before I started this. Plastic check valve is screwed into the big piece of whatever, carefully grabbed it with (wrong again) pliers and turned it out. Installation is reverse of removal - but use a large pliers with a ROUNDED jaw to grab the round check valve body. Don't squeeze too hard or overtighten it. Put the clamp on the valve before pushing the hose on. Be sure the hose seats all the way onto the little lugs. Compress the clamp, slide it over the end of the hose and release. That's all folks, works good now.

Mine is a Ultra Wash 111
I followed the repair video on your site but my dishwasher was a little different. Not enough that anyone could still understand the video and not get it disassembled. The video shows two ball checks but mine doesn't use them where the videos shows. I put them in anyway because I called Whirlpool, who made my washer, and they assured me that they should be in there. They got sucked through the dump impeller and plugged the discharge tube so I had to disassemble it again and take the ball checks out. Lucky for me nothing got damaged. I then got a hold of someone on your chat line that got me to the correct parts view that shows where the ball check is suppose to go on my washer. During working on my washer I realized the squealing was because the bottom bearing on the motor needed oil. So all and all I'm happy because it runs quiet and it works fine. Thanks Greg

Actually I ordered the drain and wash impeller kit because it was listed as the #1 cause of failure to drain. I then hired a plumber to install it. He did so and that didn't solve the problem. So I was about to buy a new dishwasher. I then noticed that the second most frequent cause was a problem with the "dishwasher drain check valve." I watched the "partselect" video on how to change that. I didn't have a new one but I thought I would take out the part and see what I could learn. As it turned out it was blocked by a little piece of what appeared to be a walnut chip. I cleaned it out reinstalled the drain check valve and the problem was solved.

Install too less that a minute. Fit perfectly.