KUDE45CVSS0 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

I am a 61 year old woman and it took me a total of 2 min. max. Popped it into place and pushed in button that holds it..Taa Daa...perfect!

1) clear out the dishwasher
2) remove unit securing screws from top or sides of DW and cabinetry near the top or under the counter top
3) gently pull the dishwasher from the cabinetry about 20" is plenty, mind the connecting hoses and electrical connection
4) close the door! pull back the insulation from the area of the hinge and photograph both sides - this will save you the pain of going online
5) you will see the cord, the tensioning wheel assembly and the door balance spring on both sides
6) with the door closed to relieve tension on the cord, remove the cord from the balance spring - this can be done w/o tools at this point
7) remove the 5/16" screw from the plastic tensioning wheels and remove the tensioners, cord - leave the springs in place if not replacing them
8) install the door end of the cord to its hook on the hinge, install the new tensioning wheel assembly, install the old 5/16" self tapping screw through the lower wheel and into the outer hole in the frame
9) thread the cord from the door over the upper wheel and lower wheel. the lower wheel has cord retaining tabs to hold the cord on the assembly
10) hook the eye end of the cord to the balance spring and you are finished with the first side - repeat operations for the other side, reposition the insulation and slide the washer back in its cavity - do not forget to reinstall the stabilizing screws in the upper washer frame
11) you've done it!
12) have a cuppa and do your second washer that hasn't failed yet - it will soon.

I opened yutube and noted the tips on how to fix specific problems with my dishwasher. That "steve" guy was very helpful. I tested the old bi-metal fuse with no flow and ordered a new replacement through partselect. The part arrived in one day and was fitted quickly. I used the teat meter to confirm that the fuse was ok before I installed it. The only problem that I had was identifying the part and number from a diagram which I did not have.

Removed the old tines by pushing out the clips on the end and then installed the new tines and applied clips - took 10 minutes worked slick and the washer basket looks to be brand.

put new hose on, very easy.

Remove 2 screws on lower baseplate. Remove 2 screws that hold dishwasher inside cabinet( may be attached to counter top or side cabinets). Turn off water supply to dishwasher. Remove any connections such as water supply, electrical connection, or waste water line that prevent dishwasher from being pulled out about 3/4 of the way. With the dishwasher door closed, remove broken parts and replace with new parts. Pull on spring to make final connection of nylon cable. Reverse the above instructions for re-installing the machine.

Just removed the old seal and followed the instructions that came with the new one. Since the old one didn't have any adhesive on it ,I didn't use the adhesice on the new one. Problem solved!

Turn off breaker to dishwasher.
Remove lower basket.
Drain any water using a wet vac.
Remove bottom cover plate. Should be 2 plastic screws using flat head screwdriver.
Should be able to reach pump. Turn counter clockwise to remove.
Disconnect plug wire on pump.
Install new pump by turning clock wise.
Reattach wire plug.
Run a wash cycle with empty dishwasher and check for leaks.
Replace cover plate.
Done.

pulled out the old basket and installed the new basket. no tools required.

The easy part of this was how fast we received the part without any special delivery request. That was nice. We also have a 46 inch TV down and the repair man has been waiting for parts for 10 days! You should handle tv parts!

Removed old part and replaced with new part

I researched the internet about this symptom on the Kenmore Elite Dishwasher and I found lots of people with the same problem. Everyone fixed it by replacing the Bi-Metal Fuse. I removed the old fuse and tested continuity and it was indeed bad. Once the new fuse arrived I tested continuity and it of course worked as expected, so that was a nice wipe of the brow. The new Bi-Metal Fuse came with a nice instruction manual. I also used a video from YouTube to help with the repair as well, but the included instructions were enough. The only thing that was not clear was the best way to attach the new wire since it was quite a bit longer than what was orginially there. So I ended up just folding it up and putting everything back together and it worked just fine. This repair was very easy as long as you are OK with cutting and stripping wires in a somewhat confined space and not being too worried that you might mess it up for good... :)

replaced the valve

I simply removed the melted spray arm, then set the new spray arm in place, twisted the built-in securing nut (clockwise to its stop), and it worked without any problems.

Removed old tine rows and replaced with the new parts. No tools were needed. Each was replaced one at a time so the old ones could serve as a model for how the new ones were inserted and attached. Not much more complicated than changing a light bulb. Parts appear to be good original equipment quality but quite pricy for these very simple pieces.

Removed the old hose, after loosing metal looking rings. Installed new hose ad finally tight firmly the looking rings, using wrench and socket.