KUDP01DLWH7 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed old seal, cleaned track, applied adhesive for new seal, seated new seal in track, closed door for 24 hours to allow adhesive to cure, then used dishwasher without difficulty. An easy repair.

I watched the instructional videos that showed how to replace the inlet fill hose/water inlet a couple of times. The repair was exactly as shown. No trouble at all.

First I removed the screws holding the outside door panel to the inside door panel. Next (at this was the tricky part) was separating the panels. In our model of dishwasher, there is a layer of Styrofoam between the two panel to reduce noise. Unfortunately the Styrofoam is glued to both panels. Separating it without damage was not possible. So it was done with brute force and the Styrofoam broke in several places.

Replacing the dispenser involved removing six screws, disconnecting the wires and popping the dispenser out. The new one went in easily although there seemed to be a correct amount of tightening to do. It was tricky to get the cover back on because the Styrofoam pieces had to go back together like a puzzle.

Once reassembled, I ran the machine and it leaked at the dispenser. So the cover came back off. This time I played with the adjustment of the dispenser, testing it with the outside cover off, to insure that I had a tight, non-leaking seal. Once done, I put the cover back on and we are back in business.

The new dispensers do not have connections for the "Add Rinse Aid" light. They use a visual indicator on the dispenser itself. I simply taped the wire for the indicator light up and left it inside the door.

One last note, on our unit, the outside door panel is two pieces. I needed only to removed the lower portion for this repair. Unfortunately, I removed both and in the process broke the small plastic end on the door latch requiring me to purchase a new one. Bummer. That was a 10 minute repair though.

I removed the dishwasher from under the cabinet. This is what took the most time. Before removing the dishwasher from under the cabinet I disconnected the drain cable to remove all the water from unit. After removing the dishwasher I tipped the unit on its left side. The motor/pump assembly is held in with one screw. After removing this screw the pump/motor assembly comes out with a 1/8 turn counter clock wise. The replacement pump/motor assembly was put back in in reverse order. After the pump/motor assembly was replaced I replaced the door balance cable kit on the right side of the unit. Next I tipped the unit on to its right side and replace the left balance cable kit. After this all that was left was to return the unit back under the cabinet and hook up the water supply line, the drain line, and the power.

So easy to install even a caveman can do it!

After I removed the button holder from the upper wash arm supply line, I put the new botton connecter in it's place. I then held the button in place, slightly bending down the water supply, while bring the wash arm, with the lower support in place, pushing the support onto the button holder. The whole thing took less than 30 seconds.

The silverware basket can be lifted out using an integral handle. I tossed it away when it started crumbling. When the new part arrived, I removed it from the box, and dropped into the recess in the lower section of the dishwasher. No tools required.

This kit comes with the link cords and the balance wheels. I only needed the cords. I undid the set screws under the counter edge and slid the Dishwasher out from under the counter. One of the links had a broken cord and the spring had snapped to the very back of the space and was a bit hard to find. I used the good side as a guide to see how to thread the cord correctly. I did not replace the wheels since they appeared to be in good shape and looked like they might be a bit more difficult to replace than just the cord. For a second I thought I had ordered the wrong part because the new cord's attachment point at the hinge did not look exactly like the originals but the new design worked just like the original. I did need one other person to help stretch the spring and hold the door in the best position so I could attach the cord to the hinge. It's working perfectly now and I saved the wheels in case I need them later.

Replaced pump and motor. For the price of the products individually, it only made sense to do the whole thing. As someone else mentioned, much easier to remove the dishwasher and turn it on it's side to remove/replace. Disconnect 3 fittings, 3 stop devices and remove. Other than getting about 20 cuts on my hands from all the metal, it wasn't bad at all.

Removed leads from fuse and installed jumper wire (while the power was off, then turned back on) to determine that circuit board was still good. Ordered new fuse and installed using existing wire connections. Did not splice in new connectors that came with fuse. Wires were clean and good and did not want to cut and splice.

Just snapped the new retainer onto the side tines. It holds the rear tines upright on the bottom dishrac.

Since I had watched a repairman diagnose the problem, it was eash to reproduce how to pull the unit out from the wall and find the faulty part to remove it and replace it with the new thermistor. Two wires to disconnect and connect and repair nearly complete. Pushed it back in, screwed it back to the cabinet and installed foot plate and done.

took out the old one and plopped in the new one

I had removed this part several times before, it had clogged from sediment, so I had practice. That issue was resolved, but I determined the water level during the wash and rinse cycles was low, and the valve appeared to be the culprit. The trick is to remove the valve from the bracket, removing the single screw, and sliding the unit so the tangs on the bracket can be pushed to the rear and then towards the front. When you disconnect the electrical connection, then the valve can be pulled out towards the front for better access and to disconnect, if your supply hose is long enough. That makes swinging the wrench easier. Other wise it is tedious. Make sure to reapply thread tape after reconnecting the supply hose.

Replace motor/pump assembly