KUDP01FLWH6 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Unplugged unit from power source.Removed the screws fastening the interior panel to the door. Removed latch assembly from the door after disconnecting two wires to the microswitch. Removed microswitch from the latch assembly, then installed same microswitch in new latch assembly. Re-connected wires and re-installed latch assembly. Re-installed interior panel with screws. Re-connected unit to power source. Tested unit. Has started reliably ever since.

This kit comes with the link cords and the balance wheels. I only needed the cords. I undid the set screws under the counter edge and slid the Dishwasher out from under the counter. One of the links had a broken cord and the spring had snapped to the very back of the space and was a bit hard to find. I used the good side as a guide to see how to thread the cord correctly. I did not replace the wheels since they appeared to be in good shape and looked like they might be a bit more difficult to replace than just the cord. For a second I thought I had ordered the wrong part because the new cord's attachment point at the hinge did not look exactly like the originals but the new design worked just like the original. I did need one other person to help stretch the spring and hold the door in the best position so I could attach the cord to the hinge. It's working perfectly now and I saved the wheels in case I need them later.

I changed the Springs,Cables,Hinges (both) also changed both latches one on the door and the striker on the top of the tub. Problem still exists. Call worldpool today they never heard of this issue but if you google kitchenaid Dishwasher door pops open you get all kinds of hits.. You guys were great no problem with the parts..

The silverware basket can be lifted out using an integral handle. I tossed it away when it started crumbling. When the new part arrived, I removed it from the box, and dropped into the recess in the lower section of the dishwasher. No tools required.

First, ordering parts and getting diagrams from parts select is so efficient and make tthe installation so manageable. Using installation tips off the site gives u confidence to do it.
My issue was that I could not get the dishwasher from under the counter.
I removed the kick plate and screws holding it to the counter, but it was not coming out all the way. So I had to use a coat hanger to hook the spring. I attached the nylon cord first. Then I pulled the spring taut with the hanger and it was easy to thread the cord around the pulley system. I actually attached it to the door before tensioning the spring to make it easier.
Door works great now.

Just snapped the new retainer onto the side tines. It holds the rear tines upright on the bottom dishrac.

Removed leads from fuse and installed jumper wire (while the power was off, then turned back on) to determine that circuit board was still good. Ordered new fuse and installed using existing wire connections. Did not splice in new connectors that came with fuse. Wires were clean and good and did not want to cut and splice.

Since I had watched a repairman diagnose the problem, it was eash to reproduce how to pull the unit out from the wall and find the faulty part to remove it and replace it with the new thermistor. Two wires to disconnect and connect and repair nearly complete. Pushed it back in, screwed it back to the cabinet and installed foot plate and done.

took out the old one and plopped in the new one

I had removed this part several times before, it had clogged from sediment, so I had practice. That issue was resolved, but I determined the water level during the wash and rinse cycles was low, and the valve appeared to be the culprit. The trick is to remove the valve from the bracket, removing the single screw, and sliding the unit so the tangs on the bracket can be pushed to the rear and then towards the front. When you disconnect the electrical connection, then the valve can be pulled out towards the front for better access and to disconnect, if your supply hose is long enough. That makes swinging the wrench easier. Other wise it is tedious. Make sure to reapply thread tape after reconnecting the supply hose.

Replace motor/pump assembly

I peeled off the old seal and replaced with the new seal. The instructions were clear and easy to follow, however the new seal made the door not stay closed as the friction catch at the top was no strong enough to overcome the tension of the door closed with the new seal.

There were explicit instructions on the way the seal was to work with the sealed edge spreading into the tub area as the door closed. I was very careful to follow those instructions and made sure to seat the seal carefully. After I reinstalled the seal three times to see if I could get it to seat properly, as a last ditch effort I reversed the seal to the opposite way the instructions indicated and it worked with the door closing properly and the seal didn't leak.

Based on looking at the old seal and how it was originally installed, I actually think the seal was out of spec for the unit. However, if it isn't leaking that is what it's all about so we will see how long it holds.

I order a pair of wheel mounts and replaced both. Squeezed ends of plastic "plug" on the front edge of each rail (top shelf) and removed plug. slid out top shelf, snapped off old whell mounts, snapped on new wheel mounts, slide shelf back into track and re-inderted end "plugs". Done!

Remove upper tray and spray arm. Remove two screws retaining pipe for upper spray arm and overhead. Unscrew retainer on top of lower spray arm and remove. Gently rotate the upper feed pipe clockwise until pipe can be removed from lower pipe. You may then remove the lower pipe and bearing housing where the seal is. Reverse order for reassembly. I also replaced upper spray arm bushing. Very simple, remove one screw and the arm will come out.

Just had to transfer all the kit parts from the old rack to the new one.
It was important to leave one side of the kit parts(the wheel and other plastic pieces) on the old one while transferring the other side of the kit parts to the new rack so that I had a visual reference for placement and orientation of the parts on the new rack.