KUDS02FRWH2 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

This kit comes with the link cords and the balance wheels. I only needed the cords. I undid the set screws under the counter edge and slid the Dishwasher out from under the counter. One of the links had a broken cord and the spring had snapped to the very back of the space and was a bit hard to find. I used the good side as a guide to see how to thread the cord correctly. I did not replace the wheels since they appeared to be in good shape and looked like they might be a bit more difficult to replace than just the cord. For a second I thought I had ordered the wrong part because the new cord's attachment point at the hinge did not look exactly like the originals but the new design worked just like the original. I did need one other person to help stretch the spring and hold the door in the best position so I could attach the cord to the hinge. It's working perfectly now and I saved the wheels in case I need them later.

The upper spinner was laying in the top washer basket. I went online but no help was avaiable. Went to store where we purchased dishwasher and they gave me part number to order but not online I had to call to order. Part arrived in about three days. I took two screws loose on the top of dishwasher removed broke retainer to put new retainer in but I drop it into dishwasher so you have to me very careful
so I tried to order just the retainer but is not sold by it self. Had to order whole new kit. Other than that it is easy dishwasher runs like a new one.

Needed to replace whole soap dispenser unit. Had to take front door apart cause the hex screws are on the inside. (10 Screws) then doors falls off onto floor if not careful. Spring loaded inner door wants to go up and outside door wants to fall off pulling on wiring. Unplug wiring to solinoid,(plug has locking release lever that needs to be pulled on) remove 6 hex screws, and dispenser comes out. Install new unit with 6 screws, plug in, and get help holding door parts together while installing the 10 screws. You are now finished. Pros are you get the complete unit, and not a bunch of parts. Cons are no diagrams or instructions/no new 6 hex head screws-reuse old ones. . . . . . Do not use soap powder/causes damage to latch parts/use only liquid soaps. . .

Remove front door panel, replace B-metal fuse.

too simple to describe

First, ordering parts and getting diagrams from parts select is so efficient and make tthe installation so manageable. Using installation tips off the site gives u confidence to do it.
My issue was that I could not get the dishwasher from under the counter.
I removed the kick plate and screws holding it to the counter, but it was not coming out all the way. So I had to use a coat hanger to hook the spring. I attached the nylon cord first. Then I pulled the spring taut with the hanger and it was easy to thread the cord around the pulley system. I actually attached it to the door before tensioning the spring to make it easier.
Door works great now.

Replace motor/pump assembly

Shut off circut breaker. . . Removed 6 screws. . . Lifted cover over control board. . . Removed old control board. . Installed new board. . Replaced cover and the 6 screws. . Turned on circut breaker. . . Turned washer on. . . . It worked. Thank you for the quick delivery!

I peeled off the old seal and replaced with the new seal. The instructions were clear and easy to follow, however the new seal made the door not stay closed as the friction catch at the top was no strong enough to overcome the tension of the door closed with the new seal.

There were explicit instructions on the way the seal was to work with the sealed edge spreading into the tub area as the door closed. I was very careful to follow those instructions and made sure to seat the seal carefully. After I reinstalled the seal three times to see if I could get it to seat properly, as a last ditch effort I reversed the seal to the opposite way the instructions indicated and it worked with the door closing properly and the seal didn't leak.

Based on looking at the old seal and how it was originally installed, I actually think the seal was out of spec for the unit. However, if it isn't leaking that is what it's all about so we will see how long it holds.

removed old rack adjusters by prying remaining fasteners with a screwdriver, then installed new ones with steel screws. Very simple, and adjusters are better than new now.

I found instructions on line when I goggled my dishwasher name and model number with the words noisy door. There were three or four good suggestions at a couple of the sites I visited. I tried applying vasoline, then silicone to the rope where it travels through the plastic guides but that just cut the sound down about 50%. My dishwasher has plastic guides that look like rollers but they don't turn, they are fixed in place. The ropes squeak as the pass over the guides. The replacement part kit has plastic guides that turn like wheels now so the rope does not drag over them and squeak. This repair could be done by me in 20 minutes or less every time now that I know what I am doing.

I removed the black bottom metal cover then turned the nuts on the adjusting (leveling) bolts to lower the front end of the dishwasher so I could pull it out of the cabinet. Once I lowered is as low as it would go I opened the door and pushed down on it which tilts the dishwasher down and you pull out on it and the top lip clears the cabinet. If your dishwasher just pulls out the first time you try these steps may not be necessary.
Once the dishwasher is out the guides and rope are down at the bottom in the front by the door. It's obvious what to do to replace them.

Pulled everything out the front, and dug down to find a thrashed chopper assembly (like a little garbage disposal). The previous owner just tossed anything in; pop tops, plastic cutlery, etc.
Didn't pay attention to the exact installation of the chopper as I pulled it out, but, it turns out that it only goes in one way.
Used pictures and instructions I found online as a guide and didn't have any issues.
Replaced the check valve because it isn't expensive and I was in the neighborhood.

The repair was really easy. First disconnected electricity staring with fuses and removing wires from dishwasher, then disconnected drain hose and water hose. Pulled it out and removed pump turning clockwise no need for tools and same way installed new one. Very easy

Remove upper tray and spray arm. Remove two screws retaining pipe for upper spray arm and overhead. Unscrew retainer on top of lower spray arm and remove. Gently rotate the upper feed pipe clockwise until pipe can be removed from lower pipe. You may then remove the lower pipe and bearing housing where the seal is. Reverse order for reassembly. I also replaced upper spray arm bushing. Very simple, remove one screw and the arm will come out.

1.Check the lines for any obstruction. Gunk can easily build up. I have used the dishwasher for approx. 10 years. I do rinse/scrap dishes prior to loading.
2. Drain all remaining water.
3. Unplug the dishwasher.
4. Grab a towel and proper screw driver. Unscrew the bottom protective plate. Remove the insulation plate.
5. The drain pump is located to the bottom left. Have your towel under it. Unplug it gently. Turn counter clockwise to remove.
6. Install the new drain pump (reverse order)
7. Return the insulation plate. Screw back the bottom protective plate.
8. Plug in