KUDS01FLSS3 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed leads from fuse and installed jumper wire (while the power was off, then turned back on) to determine that circuit board was still good. Ordered new fuse and installed using existing wire connections. Did not splice in new connectors that came with fuse. Wires were clean and good and did not want to cut and splice.

Since I had watched a repairman diagnose the problem, it was eash to reproduce how to pull the unit out from the wall and find the faulty part to remove it and replace it with the new thermistor. Two wires to disconnect and connect and repair nearly complete. Pushed it back in, screwed it back to the cabinet and installed foot plate and done.

Replace motor/pump assembly

I had removed this part several times before, it had clogged from sediment, so I had practice. That issue was resolved, but I determined the water level during the wash and rinse cycles was low, and the valve appeared to be the culprit. The trick is to remove the valve from the bracket, removing the single screw, and sliding the unit so the tangs on the bracket can be pushed to the rear and then towards the front. When you disconnect the electrical connection, then the valve can be pulled out towards the front for better access and to disconnect, if your supply hose is long enough. That makes swinging the wrench easier. Other wise it is tedious. Make sure to reapply thread tape after reconnecting the supply hose.

I peeled off the old seal and replaced with the new seal. The instructions were clear and easy to follow, however the new seal made the door not stay closed as the friction catch at the top was no strong enough to overcome the tension of the door closed with the new seal.

There were explicit instructions on the way the seal was to work with the sealed edge spreading into the tub area as the door closed. I was very careful to follow those instructions and made sure to seat the seal carefully. After I reinstalled the seal three times to see if I could get it to seat properly, as a last ditch effort I reversed the seal to the opposite way the instructions indicated and it worked with the door closing properly and the seal didn't leak.

Based on looking at the old seal and how it was originally installed, I actually think the seal was out of spec for the unit. However, if it isn't leaking that is what it's all about so we will see how long it holds.

Remove upper tray and spray arm. Remove two screws retaining pipe for upper spray arm and overhead. Unscrew retainer on top of lower spray arm and remove. Gently rotate the upper feed pipe clockwise until pipe can be removed from lower pipe. You may then remove the lower pipe and bearing housing where the seal is. Reverse order for reassembly. I also replaced upper spray arm bushing. Very simple, remove one screw and the arm will come out.

I followed the PartSelect video to replace the feed tube assembly with spinner and the spray arm seal for the middle wash arm. Washing performance was better, but a couple weeks later the dishes on the bottom rack suddenly stopped getting clean. I decided I probably needed a new chopper assembly, which is identified by PartSelect as the cause of problem for 48% of the cases of dishes not getting clean. Before ordering the chopper assembly, however, I followed the video about how to replace the chopper assembly to determine whether the chopper assembly seemed to be worn out (the video shown at https://www.partselect.com/PS11722146-Whirlpool-W10083957V-Chopper-Assembly.htm). It was worse than I anticipated. I found the holes of the chopper assembly screen blocked by food, and the spinner in front of the screen had broken apart. In addition to finding the pieces of the broken chopper assembly, I discovered a treasure chest of debris, including about 8 pieces of broken glassware, 3 twister ties, a half-inch button, a 3/4-inch screw, and dozens of small pieces of metal. I poured water into the area and used a kitchen baster to suck out the water with all the pieces of debris, finishing the clean-up with paper towels. I ordered a new chopper assembly to replace the broken one, and the part arrived in under 48 hours. I relied on the same video to install the new chopper assembly. The only tricky challenge was getting the new chopper assembly back into place. I first tried needle nose pliers in two sizes, as recommended in the video, but what worked much better for me was using two chop sticks that were each about 1/4 inch square from top to bottom. Needle nose pliers are slanted, but the chopsticks did not vary in thickness and separated the screen from the spinner an even distance apart, making it easier to get the gear shaft on the chopper assembly to align in a straight line with the gear shaft on the pump motor. I also rotated the two gear shafts so the gears of the chopper assembly would mesh correctly with the gears of the pump motor shaft. The video cannot show that step very well because the man's hand blocks vision of how exactly to fit the chopper assembly into place. The video also fails to warn about possible debris around the chopper assembly and to explain how to clean out the debris. After finishing installing the chopper assembly my 14-year-old dishwasher cleaned my dishes as well as a new dishwasher. I spent a total of $110.24 on parts and shipping and invested a couple of hours total. The alternative would have been to spend $800 on a new dishwasher or wash dishes by hand. I am very, very happy with the outcome.

Just had to transfer all the kit parts from the old rack to the new one.
It was important to leave one side of the kit parts(the wheel and other plastic pieces) on the old one while transferring the other side of the kit parts to the new rack so that I had a visual reference for placement and orientation of the parts on the new rack.

I found instructions on line when I goggled my dishwasher name and model number with the words noisy door. There were three or four good suggestions at a couple of the sites I visited. I tried applying vasoline, then silicone to the rope where it travels through the plastic guides but that just cut the sound down about 50%. My dishwasher has plastic guides that look like rollers but they don't turn, they are fixed in place. The ropes squeak as the pass over the guides. The replacement part kit has plastic guides that turn like wheels now so the rope does not drag over them and squeak. This repair could be done by me in 20 minutes or less every time now that I know what I am doing.

I removed the black bottom metal cover then turned the nuts on the adjusting (leveling) bolts to lower the front end of the dishwasher so I could pull it out of the cabinet. Once I lowered is as low as it would go I opened the door and pushed down on it which tilts the dishwasher down and you pull out on it and the top lip clears the cabinet. If your dishwasher just pulls out the first time you try these steps may not be necessary.
Once the dishwasher is out the guides and rope are down at the bottom in the front by the door. It's obvious what to do to replace them.

removed old rack adjusters by prying remaining fasteners with a screwdriver, then installed new ones with steel screws. Very simple, and adjusters are better than new now.

Pulled everything out the front, and dug down to find a thrashed chopper assembly (like a little garbage disposal). The previous owner just tossed anything in; pop tops, plastic cutlery, etc.
Didn't pay attention to the exact installation of the chopper as I pulled it out, but, it turns out that it only goes in one way.
Used pictures and instructions I found online as a guide and didn't have any issues.
Replaced the check valve because it isn't expensive and I was in the neighborhood.

.The easiest way to complete the impeller and chopper motor replacement is to disconnect the power, water and drain line, remove the dishwasher from the cabinet, set the washer on its back.

From this point everything is visible, pump housing, motor, etc. and it's a matter of disassembly and reassembly. Make note or a drawing of where all the wires are connected so you reconnect them in the right spots.

Reinstall water lines and power and check for leaks before replacing shield or kick plate.

Unplug the dishwasher. Remove the screws holding the stainless lining to the outer door panel. Unplug the various connections. remove the control panel by pushing small plastic cleats outward (they are spring loaded). Remove the printed circuit board by pushing one holding tab to realase then tilting the board out. Remove the ribbon cable by sliding it off the circuit board. Now reverse the process. Attach the ribbon cable to new circuit board, snap in the circuit board to the control panel (ribbon behind), reattach all electrical connectors, reassemble the door "sandwich". Somewhere in there you also need to remove then snap back the door lock assembly. This is a simple repair with no fancy connectors or tools. Repair service wanted $400 plus two service calls (one to diagnose, one to install). My total about $120. I am a klutz re: repairs.

When the dishwasher is pulled out from the cabinet the nuts that hold the element in place are readily accessible. Pull wires off spade terminals, unscrew nuts, remove and replace element. I tightened the (plastic) nuts 3/4 to 1 turn, and used a little silicone gasket maker on the rubber gaskets provided with the new element.
The electronic module is easily replaced by removing the upper part of the dorr panel (top 6 screws). Transfer the wires to it and snap it in place of the old one. This Whirlpool repair set fit perfectly in this Sears dishwasher, and works as it should.

Disconnect the water supply, the drain line, and the two screws that go up into the cabinet frame, then pull the dishwasher out from under the counter. Tip the unit onto it's face and the main pump/motor is facing up. Turn off the power then unplug the electrical connector from the motor. Remove the single bolt at the base of the motor then turn the whole motor ~1/4 turn counter-clockwise. A firm pull will remove the motor/pump at this point.
The new motor/pump has a new seal. See that the arrows on the pump volute and the motor frame are lined up before inserting into the housing. The new motor/pump slides into the housing easily and a 1/4 turn clockwise will pull it in tight. Re-install the locking bolt and revers the rest of the steps to get running again.