5871511590 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed some philips screws from the kick plate along the bottom of the dishwasher. I then removed some trim screws on the sides of the bottom door panel (the smaller panel below the door on the front of the dishwasher). There were also two screws into the top of the lower panel that you can only see when the door is open. This let me remove the whole lower door panel and kick plate. It was now possible to see the springs on the left and right, and it is actually possible to change them at this point, just with access through the front. However, it is very awkward. Contrary to what some repairs have said, it really is much easier if you can pull the dishwasher out from under the counter about 6 inches. To do that, you'll have to unbolt it, and that will vary depending on how yours was mounted. You may find brackets along the front, screws or bolts through the frame into the floor, and/or retaining straps from the top up to the counter.

Beyond that, it's simple. You'll see that the spring hooks into a slot or hole on a large L-shaped bracket that moves with the door. There is one on each side at the bottom of the door. The other end of each spring hooks through a hole in the frame rail on the bottom. There will likely be several holes, letting you choose how tight you want the spring (this controls how easily the door will drop).
A pair of needlenose pliers is handy for getting the spring end into the holes.

Again, it was a lot easier doing this from the outside of the dishwasher after pulling it out a few inches.

I called an appliance store and they said to bring in the model number and a deposit and they would order it for us. Then, I decided to go to the Internet. I Googled Gibson Dishwahers and your page came up. I entered the requested information and ordered the gasket. In LESS THAN 24 HOURS it was delivered and in les than fifteen minutes, our son installed it. No more leaks! Thank you for the excellent service.

This site had good pics and descriptions of the gasket I needed, as well as a LOT of users instructions concerning installation. Ordered, came quickly. It was a little hard to push in the groove. (Maybe a little silicone lube on the gasket would help??) I also filled in the gap at the bottom with a small section of the old gasket, as suggested by (other) installers. Why not? Anyways, it took both hands to close the door the first 3-4 washes. Easy to open/close now. AND... no more leaks! Great price, too!

DISASSEMBLY
- Switch off circuit breaker for dishwasher.
- Remove lower front covers from washer to observe motor (for later steps) and to clean-up water.
- Remove top and bottom dishracks.
-You may want to take pics of the placement/orientation of components in the following steps as you disassemble them for reference during reassembly.
- Remove spray-arm base from pump housing.
- Remove and discard impeller— put a screwdriver in the impeller grooves to prevent it turning as you loosen the screw.
- Remove impeller, O-ring, and blade. Discard impeller and O-ring, but keep blade (I couldn’t find the O-ring; it had probably disintegrated).
- Remove pump housing, pump plate, and gasket.
- Use two flat-head screwdrivers on opposite sides of the rotor to pry it off the motor shaft. Be cautious not to damage the area around the motor shaft—wood can be used to protect the area and provide better leverage. If the rotor can’t be removed, a chisel or hacksaw can be used to split it before prying it up— be cautious of the motor shaft when splitting the rotor. Discard the rotor.
- Locate the upper seal, note its orientation (cup-side-down), remove it, and discard it (my upper seal was in the recess in the bottom of the rotor).
-Drive the shaft-key (small metal tab) out of the shaft groove using a hammer and flat-head screwdriver and discard it— the new rotor has a molded-in tab that will slide into the groove in place of the shaft-key.
- Remove ceramic ring from motor shaft and discard it (my leak was caused because the ceramic ring was broken in half).
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry loose the lower seal—before removing it from the shaft, note its orientation (wide-side-down). Be caution not to damage the area around the motor shaft—wood may again be used for protection and leverage.

CLEANING/PREP
- Clean shaft with wire brush, white vinegar, and a rag (you may not need the wire brush if the shaft is in good shape, but my motor shaft was heavily corroded/rusted and I needed to smooth it to prevent it damaging the seals). Clean groove in motor shaft with flat-head screwdriver and rag.
- Use a rag and white vinegar to clean motor shaft recess and pump housing seat. The bottom of the motor shaft recess must be clean and smooth for the lower seal to seat properly.
- Clean pump plate, gasket, blade, pump housing, and screws with white vinegar and a plastic-bristled brush.

ASSEMBLY
-Wet new rubber seals, new ceramic ring, and new rotor with water to help them slide into place.
-Refer to pics taken during disassembly as needed for the following steps.
- Place new lower seal (wide-side-down) over motor shaft in bottom of recess.
-Push new upper seal (cup-side-down) into recessed area in the bottom of the new rotor.
-Push new ceramic ring into upper seal (cup-side) in bottom of rotor.
-Align groove on motor shaft with tab in rotor (a mark on the outside of the rotor shows the tab’s location) and seat rotor on the motor shaft by hand. Verify that the motor turns when the rotor is turned by hand. If not, remove the rotor and reposition it so that its tab slides into the groove in the motor shaft.
-Place gasket, pump plate, and pump housing in position. Start pump housing screws, but leave them loose.
- Place blade and new O-ring on rotor.
- Place new impeller on rotor and insert screw. Tighten moderately — overtightening could cause leaks. Hold the impeller by hand to prevent it turning as the screw is tightened— do not use a screwdriver to prevent the impeller turning.
- Finish tightening pump housing screws.
- Seat spray-arm base on pump housing and insert/tighten its mounting screws.
- Switch on circuit breaker for dishwasher.
- Start washer and watch motor to verify that shaft seal is not leaking. Run a full cycle to rinse the new parts and remove debris and vinegar residue. Continue to observe motor shaft area for leaks during cycle.
-Replace lower front covers.

Removed 2 screws from the Access Panel and 2 screws from the Toe Plate using a Phillips head screwdriver. The broken spring was removed and replaced using the opposite spring as a guide as to the position of the spring. The opposite side (the unabroken one) was replaced. The panels were screwed back into place. End of repair.

Just snapped the wheels on and attached the bracket to the existing part.

I removed the whole spray assembly and replaced the base by removing the spray arm and re-attaching to the new wash arm support and diffuser assembly. When re-installed into the dishwasher, it works like new!

The gasket was easy to remove and easy to replace. Our story is interesting because upon calling SEARS to find the replacement part we were told they no longer make it because the dishwasher is too old (approx. 15 years). It works wonderfully so I was annoyed to think we'd have to buy a new one just because of a bad gasket. My husband has a knack for finding things online and eventually discovered your site as well as the original drawing of the machine to find the part number and lo a behold, it fits perfectly. No more leaks! Sweet

At first remove the lower rack to give more room for you to lean over the inside of the dishwasher then remove the old gasket tub 90 inches long make sure that you know which side goes where, so that it will be easy to put the new one. Then press the gasket firmly on the side.Now you can start your dishwasher with no leak and saves you a lot of money for buying a new one.

First, open the dishwasher door and unscrew it from countertop or side of the cabinet. Second, close the dishwasher door and lock it. Thrid, pull entire washer out slowly. Fourth, remove old door spring on both side and replace with new one using needle nose plier. Fifth, unscrew drain hose from under washer and under the sink disposal and replace with new one. Sixth, run washer and ck for leak then push it back under the counter top...done

Removed the old rollers with with screw driver. Used the original screws and washers, and reinstalled the new rollers. Had been having trouble with top dish rack metal slides popping out of the old rollers. I not that the replacement rollers are slightly larger and have slightly deeper groves for the slides. Have not had the new rollers installed long enough to see if they remedied the problem. Will know in a few weeks time. So far, so good.

The repair was simple. When the part comes, you may need a hairdryer to heat up the plastic a bit to get any kinks that may have happened during packaging or shipping, very easy 5 minutes. Removed the old gasket by hand, very easy, 1 minute. You will need to clean out the track that the gasket sits in. Mine had years of black gunk inside of it. You will need qtips or a small screwdriver with some tissues or papertowels, easy but took 15 minutes to clean out properly. Installed new gasket in the track, start at the top middle, there is a notch on the gasket so you know where the middle is. Installed by hand, just push bottom edge into the clean track, easy 5 minutes. Ran the dishwasher with no leaks. Very pleased with the result and how easy the gasket was to remove and install.

used the pliers to grip the end of the spring, extended it and removed it from the door and frame. The install then followed. It takes longer to remove the front panel than to do the repair.

I removed the front panel below the door. There are 4 Hex screws, two at the top (accessible with the door open) and two at the bottom. After removing the screws, the panel came off, and I could reach inside to replace the springs. I found it easier to use a socket wrench than a screw driver.
Easily done. Anybody can do it. It took longer to clean up the panel than to do the actual repair.

After I received the Motor Shaft Kit I removed the spray arm tower and removed all screws, the center screw would not come out of the impeller, was stripped. Used a hammer and chisel to split the center of impeller and was able to remove. Also had to split the bottom impeller because it would not come out. All the parts that came in kit fit perfectly. Thank you Very much.