66513479N411 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

I remodeled my kitchen with new cabinets. In order to better utilize cabinet space, I located the dishwasher away from the sink, which means that I had to have a longer drain hose. The store I purchased the dishwasher from didn't have a longer hose, so I went online and found it on this website. Thanks for the quick shipment. I ordered it using standard delivery and received it in less than three days. I have book marked this website for future use.

unsnap old bracket, remove. Feed new bracket in between wires snap in place..... DONE

We had two broken wheel mounts resulting from a child swinging a younger child over the open dishwasher and hitting the rack with a sideways thrust. Once before we had a problem like this with one of the mounts, and not knowing about you or about the repair process, we had an appliance repairman come out - $225. This time we replaced all four so we eliminated any possible damage we weren't aware of and the total was about $75 and 15 minutes. The instructions were very easy to follow, thanks for the savings!

It turned out that the only part needed was the left front Wheel (Stationary Upper Dishrack Wheel Mount) for the upper dish rack. This was not clear from the diagrams for that model. The old part essentially fell off once I pulled out the rack, and then it simply took a few minutes to get the old wheel out of the track (which is why a small screwdriver was needed to open track-end catch). The new wheel slipped in with no problems, and the rack immediately was working again.

Removed plastic end caps from dish rack rail and slid rack off front of rail. Removed rear broken wheel and mount assemble that rail runs on. I believe this took a 3/16" socket which most people would not have and would prevent them from removing this part. With the right tool it was easy, without the tool it would be impossible. Buying tool at local hardware store would be much cheaper than calling repair man. After rear wheel mount assembly was removed, I slid rail forward so I could easily remove the rear rail end cap. I then mounted new wheel mount assemble using original screws and then slid rail through both wheel assemblies and snapped rail rear end cap back into rail. I then slid the upper dish rack on to the rails on both side, slid the wrack back and then snapped the end caps back into the rails fronts on bothe sides. The job was done and the dishwasher was ready for service.

Remove blown high limit therm.and replace with the new high limit

Googled the problem. Found a really good video about how to fix it. Ordered the part from PartSelect and it came in a couple of days. Son and I fixed it and had it up and going in a little more than an hour. The biggest problem was getting it disconnected from the water, drain and power and then hooking it back up. Old fat guys don't do well lying on the floor with their head under the sink - was why I needed son. Works now just like brand new. I highly recommend PartSelect! Don't know what it would have costs to get a repairman to do it but figured our labor saved us a couple hundred $. Yea!

Snapped off the old parts and snapped on the new ones

Parts arrived extremely quickly. Thank you. I read the other suggestions on your site and they were helpful. They suggested to take off the end caps in order to slide off the broken parts and slide on the new. I had some difficulty getting the end caps off. Ended up using a screwdriver but in the process was afraid I was going to break off a little plastic tip that slips into the rail and holds the end-cap in place. But it worked out and was easy enough to then install the new parts by sliding them onto the rail and they pretty much snapped into place.

The repair was somewhat difficult because I needed to replace the sump and everything is connected to the sump. This motor that needed to be replaced has a stem that goes up into the sump and is sealed by a gasket. Well the gasket wore out and for some reason that gasket is fixed to the sump. Water started leaking down into the motor and fried it. So long story short took pictures of everything before disconnecting and replaced everything with ease. The sump was a bit of a pain to get back in but it's all up and running just fine now.

I read information on this website about the function of the high limit thermostat. I found that it was the problem by disconnecting the two wires on the thermostat and straight wiring to bypass it. This allowed the machine to work properly so I ordered the high limit thermostat. To replace the part I used a screwdriver to remove the instrument panel and replaced the high limit thermostat by disconnecting the two wires from the old thermostat and connecting the wires to the new thermostat. I then replaced the instrument panel. My machine is working properly again..

Installed brackets

We had to pull the dishwasher out the get the heating element brackets loose underneath. We had to put the new heating element in and then we had to figure out which code to program in to make it reset. the last one listed on the installation instructions was the one that worked. I think it was heated dry, normal, heated dry. It would be very helpful if the reset instructions were put in the manual by whirlpool. I am very pleased with my part that I ordered from PartSelect. It came within 2 days of placing the order.

Disconnected the power. Removed the dishwasher mount screws from under the counter. Slid the Dishwasher out. Removed the two wires. Loosened and removed the two heater support nuts. Removed the heater element from inside the dishwasher. Placed the new heater element inside. Tightened the nuts. Attached the wires. Pushed the dishwasher back in place. Replaced the under-counter support screws. Reset the diagnostics message on the dishwasher front panel (This may not be necessary for some) - (Press HI TEMP > AIR DRY > HI TEMP > AIR DRY). All works great. Thank you PartSelect.com for fast shipping and great pricing.

As directed online