66512413N412 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

The repair was somewhat difficult because I needed to replace the sump and everything is connected to the sump. This motor that needed to be replaced has a stem that goes up into the sump and is sealed by a gasket. Well the gasket wore out and for some reason that gasket is fixed to the sump. Water started leaking down into the motor and fried it. So long story short took pictures of everything before disconnecting and replaced everything with ease. The sump was a bit of a pain to get back in but it's all up and running just fine now.

Removed plastic end caps from dish rack rail and slid rack off front of rail. Removed rear broken wheel and mount assemble that rail runs on. I believe this took a 3/16" socket which most people would not have and would prevent them from removing this part. With the right tool it was easy, without the tool it would be impossible. Buying tool at local hardware store would be much cheaper than calling repair man. After rear wheel mount assembly was removed, I slid rail forward so I could easily remove the rear rail end cap. I then mounted new wheel mount assemble using original screws and then slid rail through both wheel assemblies and snapped rail rear end cap back into rail. I then slid the upper dish rack on to the rails on both side, slid the wrack back and then snapped the end caps back into the rails fronts on bothe sides. The job was done and the dishwasher was ready for service.

Disconnected the power. Removed the dishwasher mount screws from under the counter. Slid the Dishwasher out. Removed the two wires. Loosened and removed the two heater support nuts. Removed the heater element from inside the dishwasher. Placed the new heater element inside. Tightened the nuts. Attached the wires. Pushed the dishwasher back in place. Replaced the under-counter support screws. Reset the diagnostics message on the dishwasher front panel (This may not be necessary for some) - (Press HI TEMP > AIR DRY > HI TEMP > AIR DRY). All works great. Thank you PartSelect.com for fast shipping and great pricing.

As directed online

I took it apart to look for foreign objects in the drain pump. Everything was clean. Decided the check valve in the connecting elbow of the drain tube was leaking, allowing water to run back from the drain tube into the sump. Ordered new drain tube. It came rolled up in a cardboard box for shipping, but it had been rolled the wrong way, so it had a bend in it opposite to the way it needed to bend for installation. I thought later I should have put it into some hot water in hopes of softening it and bending it the right way. Instead I just forced it into position. I finally got it hooked up, after a fight. Maybe the heat of the wash water will relax the stresses in the tube in time. -- I posted a question about putting the thing back together. Got one answer, rather snarky. It was clear from the answer that the responder hadn't understood the question at all. So I posted it in a simpler form and got another answer from the same source, again, condescending and rather sarcastic, but useful. -- Putting the dishwasher back under the counter was very difficult due to peculiarities of kitchen construction. But it's finally back in there and seems to be working all right. At least it drains completely now.

Removed unit from counter. Replaced element.

I remodeled my kitchen with new cabinets. In order to better utilize cabinet space, I located the dishwasher away from the sink, which means that I had to have a longer drain hose. The store I purchased the dishwasher from didn't have a longer hose, so I went online and found it on this website. Thanks for the quick shipment. I ordered it using standard delivery and received it in less than three days. I have book marked this website for future use.

Using a Torx screwdriver, I removed the fasteners holding the control panel/latch section of the door on the dishwasher. I tested the high limit thermostat with a multimeter. Just two terminals, one being power in, the other power out. The part had what I have heard call a "high resistance open". In other words, the power was not getting from "A" to "B". Power in - not out. After cutting power to the unit, I removed the part (just pull it out of the retaining clip and pull the terminals from the part). After receiving the part...by the way, really fast delivery...I reconnected the part (it doesn't matter which wire goes where), pushed the part back into the retaining clip, replaced and fastened the control panel, then restored power to the unit. Runs like new.

put new one in