66513809N710 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Husband is wonderful, tipped dishwasher over on back, disconnected hoses, and drain motor (replaced that a couple years ago), popped out old part, popped in new part. Had me help him keep door open when working from the inside, and flip a plastic holder piece into place on outside. 15 minutes later, I had a dishwasher that worked like new again.

Well, it’s very easy to repair. But, what I like if ur Company is, the availability, of the parts.
Thanks you.

I saves the old part to see how it was to be installed. It was very easy. I saved the $50 + dollars for a SERVICE CALL.

Pulled out old gasket, pressed in new starting middle top. No more leak.

Remove and replace by hand, no tools required

Changed the seal first, very easy, no tools needed either. Helped a little, but still leaking a lot. Changed the lower spray arm and that did it. The video I watched before changing the seal helped a lot, definitely do that first.

I checked the manual to determine the code meaning for 7 blinks, it was heating issue. I ordered the part from Partselect.com. When the part came in, I googled the internet for "How to replace a dishwasher heating element". There were several options, I chose one that was a video showing a handyman go through each step. I followed the steps, with no problems, and WA-LA! Felt good (as the wife of the house) to do it myself!

Turned water off. Removed dishwasher from under the counter, replaced hose, reinstalled dishwasher under the counter.

The left side of the console broke during disassembly to get to the latch mechanism. This was to diagnose parts needed to fix a problem that the washer would stop multiple times in the middle of a wash cycle, requiring monitoring a wash to restart the dishwasher when the console light flashed.

Access to the latch mechanism requires removing two torx self tapping (in plastic) screws on the right side, two on the left side and two attaching the sliding latch plate to the console. Since the screws are tapped into thin plastic sleeves, breaking them can be expected, especially as the console ages.

The pictures available on the troubleshooting notes supplied with the parts diagram were very helpful; In the end I learned I didn't have to replace any parts involving the latch mechanism nor the electrical switch. I DID have to disassemble the latch mechanism and clean everything thoroughly of hardened soap "gunk".
The key to success, though was to NOT tighten the screws attaching the plastic latch mechanism to the console very tight as that will cause the sliding part to bind to the console so it can not fall completely on the switch, which caused the original intermittent operation complaint.

Followed very simple instructions to easily install. The only tool needed was a flathead scredriver to pop off caps to remove old, broken rollers. New rollers simply click into place. Piease aren't cheap, but significantly less than a new dishwasher.

I used a flat blade screwdriver to compress one arm of the endcap of the slide rail to free it. I then slid up the locking slide of the old roller assembly freeing it from the upper basket,and put the new part in its place. I then put the roller back in the slide rail and replaced the endcap.

Watched YouTube first of course. Pulled off the old gasket, found the center of the new gasket and started installing the gasket from the very top and all the way down the sides. I made sure it was in tightly and smooth. No more leak, should have listened to my wife sooner!

Looked at how the other was installed oh and bought 2 for when the other one fails. Great customer service!!!!

Just snap it in

Unscrewed bottom panel of the dishwasher and simply replaced the bad control switch with the new one.