66515705891 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Replaced both "tracks" and the "wheels" .
Now it's like new....!!
My wife is so happy

Removed the track end caps from the tracks so I could pull out the tracks.
Removed the upper wash rack that holds dishes.
Only by removing this rack can the wheels be replaced, if I tried to replace them with the rack attached to the dishwasher I had to bend forward painfully.
Replace the old rales with new ones.
Attach new wheels to the upper rack in such a way as to allow the rack to roll inside the new rales.
Replace the end caps.
Hope it lasts another 10 years

Turned of water and unplugged the dishwasher.
Disconnected the incoming water line.
Drained on to the floor (have paper towels ready)
Disconnected the electrical feed wire.
Disconnected the rubber hose.
Unscrewed screw holding the fixture to the frame.
Took off the brass elbow from the old part.
Put pipedope around it and screwed into new part (carefully, so as to not crack plastic again).
Attached part back to frame.
Attached water lines.
Turned on water, plugged it in and ran dishwasher looking for leaks. No problem.

First of all, we were very impressed with the ease of finding the parts, the ordering, and the velocity in which the parts were shipped. We received them the next day. I had to remove one of the screws from the old kit, since the new one only came with one. I looked at the diagram on the website of the assembly, and also remembered what the assembly looked like before I took it apart. The first time I tried it, I could not get the spray arm to spin without hitting the dishwasher rack. Since I had ran out of time, I had to wait until the next day. Once I started, I realized that I had the mounting bracket on backwards. Once I turned it around, I tightened the screws, and it was done within 5 minutes.

replaced the two water defiector's, I had changed the door seal and should have changed the defiectors at the same time. Save yourself some time and ordor both parts. This is a easy fix, anyone can do.

I unscrewed the old water inlet valve from the frame of the dishwasher so that I could manuever my hand around to the backside where the rubber hose was connected. That was the easy part. I then had trouble holding the old valve while trying to unscrew the hot water copper tubing so I screwed it back on the frame. My dishwasher is close to 18 years old and I think that was part of the problem. After soaking in WD40, I finally got the valve out. Then I had to remove the "L" shaped connector to put on the new valve. Everything went back together a lot faster and it's like I have a new dishwasher again. By the way, I am a 53 year old female so that may be why it took me so long.

Removed 5 or 6 screws replaced O ring,Srewed cover back on ,no more leak.

Removed dishwasher, take to garage, removed lower rack to gain access to top of motor unit. Used star socket wrench to remove upper screws holding top of unit in. Disconnect wires, drain tube and counter weight. pulled motor unit out from inside dishwasher and placed on bench. Proceeded to disassemble motor. Some things were obvious, others not so. replaced old worn out parts with new, used a little lube (Vaseline) in places to assist in getting seals back in place. Instructions were of little help need to pay close attention when tearing unit apart. Reassembled with new seals, installed motor and re-installed dishwasher...NO LEAKS!! Wife and I happy.

Had to pull the dishwashwer out to replace the latch. Did this by unscrewing the 2 screws that hold the Dishwashwer to the under side of the counter. Dishwasher then pulled out easily. Then unscrewed to screws on the latch. The screws were accessed by pulling out the modling/strip around the dishwasher door. Also easy to replace the screws. But sliding it back in was a little harder. Had to shorten the front legs on the dishwashwer to get the back of the dishwasher to go back in. Then screw the front legs back out. Finally re-inserted the screws under the counter that attached the top of the Dishwasher to the counter top.

Was able to replace and repair without taking the dishwasher out. Thermostat is behind and to the left of the power junction box. Has 2 wires going to it. It is up against the bottom of tub. I used an angled mirror to see what I was doing. 1 small screw to detach and pull down thermostat. Be sure power is off before you start. Also reprogrammed defaults. Hit any button 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3, fast and close door. Let it sit 15 min to run and re-set defaults. Now I have heat and dry dishes.

No brainer

The old gasket came out easily, but had calcium deposits in area. I cleaned the area with vinegar and water and waited until it was completely dry. The new gasket went in very easily and looked great. I started the dishwasher and alas, it still leaks, so the problem was apparently not with the gasket, but some other area. But the gasket is nice and new. Any suggestions on next step0 in troubleshooting?

1) Removed the two white clips from the left and righ hand side of the top tray roller rail. this allows the tray to be completely removed and ease access to the washer assembly. The clipe looks like the letter "k", so you will need to close the "k" to almost straight line in order to get it through the hole.

2) Put a sheet or a towel at the bottom of the machine, just incase you drop the two small cross head screws. This prevents the screws from falling to the bottom of the machine.

3) Remove the screws. At this time the washer assembly will/should slip out very easily. very little force is required to pull the assmbely out.

4) Slip on the new washer assembly and put the screws back in place. Tighten screws, Be careful not over tighten the screw as you may crack the plastic flange.

Note: My machine is an older model, so the washer assembly had two screw fixing. The new assembly only had one hole. Although one fixing appeared to be sufficient, I decided to drill a hole on the other side and this worked fine.

5) Replace the top tray, taking some care to ensure rollers are correctly located within the rails. Then replace the clips and job's complete.

Removed inner cover of door. Pried Vent Assembly from door, peeled off thin sponge gasket strip from inner door, installed new thin sponge gasket strip on inner door vent opening bottom, snapped Vent Assembly into inner door opening, reinstalled inner door cover to door.
Recommend removing Vent screen from inner door first to expose locking tabs of Vent Assembly to ease removal and installation of Vent Assembly. I assume vent cover will come off if pried with small screw driver. I didn't remove vent cover and had difficulty removing and installing Vent Assembly. (I did accomplish it though)

first i picked out the old seal, use a screwdriver to get it started. Then I pushed the new one in after cleaning the seal channel. I fixed it during a commercial while watching my favorite tv show.

Simply removed deflectors and gasket, replaced all , took all of 5 mins. workes great now.