66513173K703 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

I closed the water at the tank and opened all the hot water faucets in the house thereby draining static water from the inlet hose at the valve. Then I unscrewed the inlet hose from the valve, unscrewed the valve body from the support bracket under the tub, unplugged the electrical plug from the valve body, and removed the outlet hose. I installed the new valve using the reverse sequence. Then I closed all the hot water faucets, turned on the hot water at the tank, and purged air from each of the faucets. I then started the dishwasher and ran it through a complete cycle, periodically checking it for leaks, and found none. Total time for uninstall and reinstall - about 30 minutes. Not bad for an 80 year old.

like the instructions showed

The first try didn't go well. The door didn't stay locked because the new seal was preventing it.
I pulled it back off for the second try and first I let it soak in the hot water for a few minutes to soften the rubber. Then I lubricated it with Vaseline and now the seal got in the grove easily and completely. I believe that that step was critical to ensure 100% success rate. After that everything was fine, the door locked properly, and, of course, there was no more leaking.

One Spring and both Balance Link Kits were broken. The repair itself was incredible easy, especially after watching the repair videos. Maybe 2 minutes per side. The moderately difficult part was removing the water supply and drain lines. Our dishwasher is some distance away from the kitchen sink. The supply and drain lines are routed behind and through some lower cabinets making reconnection a bear. Finally used a wire coat hanger as a guide and was able to re-thread the lines through the cabinets. The dishwasher could not be removed from its cabinet without first removing these lines.

Popping out the old tine rows was very simple and required no tools. The only issue was that the spacing of the replacement tines was different from the original parts and there was not enough space between the tines and the basket to snap the clips back on to hold the tine row. I went to my band saw and cut the extended ends off of the clips and then they snapped into place perfectly. This would have been a 20 minute, no tool job if I didn't have to run to the band saw.

Ordered p/n PS10057154, sold as a kit of TWO upper rack tine rows. I received one. Customer service issued a return tag and ordered a second kit, which again was supposed to be two rows. Replacement order arrived with just one. Fortunately, I had expected this and had not yet returned the first kit. Called customer service and told them not to expect the return of the first order.

This kit is sold as fitting several models of Whirlpool and KitchenAid dishwashers, which I verified that my KA was on the list. A minor installation problem occurred when I discovered that the upright tines of this kit don't have the exact same spacing as the KitchenAid originals. The upright tines need to be exactly half the distance between each of the crossbars on the rack below in order to install the three retaining clips found on each row. With the spacing of these tines, there wasn't quite enough room to install the clips. Fortunately, the retaining clips were manufactured with an excessive amount of shoulder on each one. Trimming off the excess material with a fine-toothed hacksaw blade made the clips narrow enough to be used without compromising their ability to hold the tine rows in place. I've used the machine several times now and the clips are holding everything in place as expected.

[img]https://i.ibb.co/9TQB3mC/clips.jpg[/img]

First remove the front kick panel by removing 2 philips screws. Turn off the water supply, and then disconnect the supply line if not of the flexible kind. Mine was copper. Remove 2 screws holding dishwasher to counter top and pull machine out. Open door and attach replacement link by hooking the plastic end to the hinge hook on the door side and then place the string portion round the plastic pulleys and then attach the other end of the link to the end of the spring attached to the rear of the machine along the bottom side. Push dishwasher back into position, reattach supply line and re-install both screws attaching the machine to the counter top. Turn on the water supply and check for leaks. Place the kick plate into postion and secure using the 2 philips screws that were removed.

Attached new link, then stretched the spring with pliers and routed link over the pulley. Replaced both links.

Followed the YouTube video linked with the part ordered and it was an absolute dream

Watch video and followed instructions. Very easy!

Removed the 10 screws holding the inner panel to the outer panel of the door. Removed inner panel to access latch/switch, then removed 2 screws to remove latch/switch. Then disconnected the 2 wires to the switch, connected wires to the new latch/switch and installed. Replaced all screws and voila, a working dishwasher! An easy 20 minute job with the help of the video.

After doing some research on the Kitchen Aid issues. I turned off the breaker. Remove the (6) #15 Torx bit screws from the inside upper panel and removed the outside control panel. I located the Bi-Metal Fuse. I turned the breaker back on.Took a Electric Meter and it showed power only on one side. I order the part (BI-Metal Fuse) from the company. Turned the breaker off to there dishwasher. Very easy to install. I cut and trim the (2) wires. Match the black wire with the white stripe to the exact same color code and do the same for the all black wire. Install one wire at a time and tighten down with a small pocket screw driver. Then use the plastic tie straps to secure the (Bi-Metal Fuse).Turn the breaker back on. You are good to go.

I looked at the position of the remaining Tine Pivot, since there are four on this dishwasher upper rack, and positioned the replacement pivot and pressed it into place. It was a snap (excuse the pun!). NOTE: My dishwasher's Model Number was not in the list provided herein. I had to search a couple of models to find the Upper Rack that looked like ours and to find the Tine Pivot replacement part that looked like ours.That process took longer than the "repair".

First I replaced the lower door seal then I replaced the door gasket. The instructions were clear so both were pretty easy. Unfortunately neither fixed the leak. After further research I discovered that the screws on the pump had become loose. I used a torx driver to tighten the screws. Time will tell, but I am pretty confident that this has fixed the problem.

Was a simple task to perform, a child could have done it. The technical skills diagnosing it was a bit hard though. The skills finding the culprit was indeed simple. Rubber was torn. Dishes would not come clean especially on the top & would not dry properly. The rubber piece being torn in half made it hard for the water & soap to despense to the top through thh center plastic tube, but now it cleans great. Thank's
Now to find out why it won't dry properly at the heating element is another task. It leaves water droplets on the dishes.
Once I got the rubber screw on attachment installed the dishes are clean & dry now & no water dropplets on the dishes.
The water dispenses up to the top like it suppost to throught the small tube to wash the upper rack dishes.
The wife is happy now she doesn't have to clean & dry them by hand.
Thank's so very much!!
Now on to the next project in hand to submit later on.