58714119401 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

The replacement hose was not as long and the original and therefore did not fit into the track made for the original one. Though it was long enough to work, an additional 4 inches would have been an exact fit.
As a result, the replacement had to be duct taped to the side of the dishwasher to hold it in place. Otherwise, the new hose was of better quality that the flimsy original. All in all, I could have picked up 3 feet of rubber hose from an auto parts or hardware store cheaper and done the job just as well, if not better.

Internet search found high limit switch as primary failure, removed dishwasher existing part looked new, no signs of wear as was expected. Second failure was the heating element, I ordered the part; At the same time I found a random youtube video, that had me check the continuity of the heater and tested good. Then the video indicated the heater relay may have one leg that has lost the solder and stops the heater element from working. I took the control panel a part and the heater relay had the same failure, one leg had a missing solder joint. Using some flux, solder and soldering iron I repaired the connection and added some addition solder to the circuit. Reassembled and the dishwasher is heating as it was before everything is working as expected!
(P.S. The heater relay failure appears to be a common problem, but the actual root cause [relay failure due to poor solder joint] is never reported back to the company, they just hear the heater element stopped working and they never fix the real issue because the customers are throwing out the dishwasher, when it could have been repaired with a simple fix. More importantly it should be something that is investigated as it may needs an engineering redesign. but can't fix what you don't know about or fail to investigate. I did purchase a new relay to replace the existing one, to be installed upon arrival).
Once again a random youtube video identifies and resolves a problem, that would have had me purchasing a new dishwasher, and maybe this is all planned engineering obsolescence.
When will get smart dishwasher that have sensors or at least codes that report the failures correctly, to make DIY repairs?

I unclipped the plastic pieces at the front of the rack. This was very easy. Then I removed the old rack. I then removed the water sprayer from the old rack and placed it on the new rack. This was simple and I unscrewed the water sprayer by hand and snapped out. Putting it on the new assembly was very easy. Then I placed the new rack on the two stainless steel sliders and refastened the plastic clips at the ends. It was no problem.

Removed the bottom panel, and I had to disconnect the water supply, which did NOT use flexible tubing (much to my disappointment), removed the screws holding the diswasher in the cabinet. Slid it out, took the old springs off, put the new ones on.

It was pretty straightforward -- no big deal.

Removed damaged strike plate from dishwasher and screwed new part into place. Tested and dishwasher worked fine. Took less than 15 minutes to get the job done. Was very pleased with how fast the part was delivered.

VERY simple---unscrewed three screws on the broken part (the little nubs that held on the bottom spinner were broken off), screwed the new one back in, re-attached the spinner.

I was VERY pleased with the customer service and quick shipping (ordered on Sunday night, the part was delivered Wednesday morning). I would definitely recommend this site to anyone, and would use it again. Five Stars!!!!

Turned off elecrtic and water to dishwasher and pulled dishwasher out from under cabinet. Removed broken hose using pliers to open hose clamps.
installed new hose.

Used pliers to remove old seal. Keep seal in position, note the notch facing the hole. Align the new seal, press it in, the notch helps align. Mine slipped in easy

After moving the dishwasher out from the cabinetry, I removed the screws holding the pump in place. Pulling the pump from the formed plastic opening, I found a toothpick lodged in the pump housing. At the same time I noticed that the front o-ring was deformed due to being the incorrect size (too large). It was installed at the factory this way.

I went online to search for new parts. PartSelect was the second or third listing on the search page. I submitted the dishwasher model number and was taken to a set of parts illustrations. I was easily able to find the o-rings I needed.

First point of leakage was the door. Turns out that a gasket at the bottom of the door functions as a wave trap. As the bottom sprayer spins it sprays against the door and creates a small wave of water this gasket was starting to disintegrate, it was letting water surge over the small tray at the doors bottom. Easy to replace just pull down and remove press fit on inside door bottom. Only when this was replaced did I find the real leak but not until I guessed at the tub seal as the leak. Very hard to see where the water really comes from! Turns out it was not the tub seal but a clip that holds the heater element got smashed down from a dropped dish rack at some earlier time and this caused the heat to increase at the clip and eventually heat the clip to extent it melted the tub directly under it. JB Weld to the rescue and we have a waterproof tub again. Well almost! The tub gasket resisted my best efforts to seat correctly and thus required a new tub gasket, still hard to seat but after 2-3 attempts we have a winner. Total cost about 50 bucks vs. 6-700 for a new unit. Wife is happy!!

Ordered the parts, put into place and that was it...very easy...had to undo the upper rack spinner wash blade but was easy to remove and put back onto the new rack...

I followed the previous repairers instructions.
-Remove the screws around the door panel
-Remove the door panel face
-disconnect the wires
-reconnect wires to the new Latch Assy
-tighten the screws and reassemble the door panel.

Removed the 6 screws from top section inside door. Pulled control panel from front side of door. Removed two screws holding latch assemly unit and pulled 4 wires from connection. Attached the 4 wires to new door latch assembly and screwed back into place. Replaced the control panel and attached with 6 screws. Couldn't get any easier.Great service Quick delivery.

1 Removed 2 screws to remove door panel so as to access back of dispenser.
2 Unplugged 2 color-coded wires attached to dispenser
3 Removed 6 screws attaching the dispenser.

Reversed these 3 steps to install new unit.

Easy. Don't even think of calling the repairman.

fixed it