58715362100A Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Very, very easy. Pop off the old wheels and snap the new ones into place on the rack.

New right away when we heard the sound, the spring broke. Easy to replace, pull dishwasher out from under countertop, usually held in place by two screws into countertop. Remove screws, pull out dishwasher. Close door, springs will now have the most slack in them. One spring located on each side. Remove spring from one side and replace with new spring to ensure proper spring placement. No actual tools needed as spring rests on a bracket attached to door and other end of spring goes through hole in bottom of dishwasher rack. open door to test for tension as there are several holes to choose from. .

Took off front door panel with two screws. Found the part in the door. took it out and slide the new part in. My husband screwed the screws while I held the door in place. If I had known it was so easy to do I would have done it as soon as I got the part but I waited for my husbands help.

My upper spray arm attaches to the upper dish rack. It comes in four parts: the spray arm, the bracket which attaches it to the rack, the water funnel, and a plastic nut that holds the pieces together. The nut was worn and wouldn't hold so I replaced that piece and it works great. It took less than one minute to fix.

Disconnected power, water, and drain tube from dishwasher. Pulled dishwasher out and laid it on right side. It was not necessary to remove the pump motor. When disconnecting the water line, it is better to remove 3/8 line from the appliance adapter rather that the appliance adapter from the dishwasher as the nylon connection tends to strip.

Internet search found high limit switch as primary failure, removed dishwasher existing part looked new, no signs of wear as was expected. Second failure was the heating element, I ordered the part; At the same time I found a random youtube video, that had me check the continuity of the heater and tested good. Then the video indicated the heater relay may have one leg that has lost the solder and stops the heater element from working. I took the control panel a part and the heater relay had the same failure, one leg had a missing solder joint. Using some flux, solder and soldering iron I repaired the connection and added some addition solder to the circuit. Reassembled and the dishwasher is heating as it was before everything is working as expected!
(P.S. The heater relay failure appears to be a common problem, but the actual root cause [relay failure due to poor solder joint] is never reported back to the company, they just hear the heater element stopped working and they never fix the real issue because the customers are throwing out the dishwasher, when it could have been repaired with a simple fix. More importantly it should be something that is investigated as it may needs an engineering redesign. but can't fix what you don't know about or fail to investigate. I did purchase a new relay to replace the existing one, to be installed upon arrival).
Once again a random youtube video identifies and resolves a problem, that would have had me purchasing a new dishwasher, and maybe this is all planned engineering obsolescence.
When will get smart dishwasher that have sensors or at least codes that report the failures correctly, to make DIY repairs?

For some strange reason my new dishwasher was installed without a door gasket, which caused a very small water leak. The gasket I purchased was installed in less than 5 minutes and corrected the problem immediately - a very easy task and I am no handyman!

Watched your video repair was easy.

Figuring the issue was the Control Board, I ordered one. ($90) When it came I installed it...SAME problem. So I took it out and reinstalled the old board and it WORKS. Apparently some connection was not right and just moving the conectors by taking them in and back out twice fixed the problem. And FYI, since it is an electric part it is NOT returnable once it s been installed!

First I removed two screws that held the door panel on. Then I pulled out the old gasket, inserted the new one, replaced the door and screws and it was done! We tested the dishwasher and no more leaks!

The replacement hose was not as long and the original and therefore did not fit into the track made for the original one. Though it was long enough to work, an additional 4 inches would have been an exact fit.
As a result, the replacement had to be duct taped to the side of the dishwasher to hold it in place. Otherwise, the new hose was of better quality that the flimsy original. All in all, I could have picked up 3 feet of rubber hose from an auto parts or hardware store cheaper and done the job just as well, if not better.

Easy

If you are getting intermittent leaks especially when you put a pot lid up front, it’s probably just the door gasket. And this was the easiest project I’ve tackled as a homeowner since buying the place 20 years ago. I read the other stories and I think the suggestion I choose to follow is not the best thing to do. So, read passed where I cut the gasket. I used needle nose pliers to grab the bottom edge of the old gasket which then pulled out by hand with almost no effort. I used the old gasket to measure the new gasket as recommended in one of the other stories, and cut it. DON"T DO THIS. The gasket is very soft foam rubber. As you push it in (I just used my fingers), it will get longer as you push it in. I put it in the first time (took about a minute if that long) and even though I cut it to the same length as the old one, it was too long. Obviously I figured I did something wrong. So, I took it out and measured it again. Nope, same-same. So, I put in a second time, careful not to stretch it, and this time it was now too short. So, I recommend that you just establish the bottom edge 90 degree angle seat and try not to stretch it as you work your way around the seam. It should fit just find, maybe with a little adjustment back or forth, but without cutting it at all. By the way, the half inch I cut off at the recommendation of one of the other reviews did not ruin it. It works just fine. So you can cut it if you want I suppose. But that half inch I cut off was what I was short when I was carful not to stretch it.

Turned power off , shut the water off to washer , unhook water line , unhook drain line from sink drain , unplugged electric chord from the wall . Open the door look where the door latches you'll see two metal strap' s that are screwed under the counter . Take the screws out . Take the bottom basket out .Take the spray bar off . There's two clips on the bar just push them out lift bar up .There in the middle of the washer you'll see filter screen. There's a small handle looking thing do not know what they call it .lol Twist one way or the other to take it off . Once you have that out of the way take the three screws out mine were hecksscrews .Pull the cover off remove the ball . Take a rag and take the excise water out in the bottom . Pull the washer completely out from under the counter . Lay it on the back side on the floor . You'll see the pump it has U shape metal holding it with two screws . Take the to screws out remove the U shape metal bracket . Unplug wire going to motor squeeze the clip and pull . Twist motor back and fourth and pull slightly till it comes out . Put new O rings on new motor and lubricate O rings and slide motor back in . Reverse the process . Take pictures if you need to as your taking things off if your afraid you won't remember.

I removed the screws from the inside of the door. There are also tiny screws you have to remove that holds the part onto the door. Then I was able to remove the part, unplug the power receptacles and install the new part. Very simple!!