66517059402 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

I just placed the cap back on, it worked great, fit fine and so glad I found this part. I was thinking of ways to McGyver it, thinking it would be impossible to find a new part. Glad i fount this site and the part.

I removed the dishwasher from under the cabinet. This is what took the most time. Before removing the dishwasher from under the cabinet I disconnected the drain cable to remove all the water from unit. After removing the dishwasher I tipped the unit on its left side. The motor/pump assembly is held in with one screw. After removing this screw the pump/motor assembly comes out with a 1/8 turn counter clock wise. The replacement pump/motor assembly was put back in in reverse order. After the pump/motor assembly was replaced I replaced the door balance cable kit on the right side of the unit. Next I tipped the unit on to its right side and replace the left balance cable kit. After this all that was left was to return the unit back under the cabinet and hook up the water supply line, the drain line, and the power.

Was able to replace and repair without taking the dishwasher out. Thermostat is behind and to the left of the power junction box. Has 2 wires going to it. It is up against the bottom of tub. I used an angled mirror to see what I was doing. 1 small screw to detach and pull down thermostat. Be sure power is off before you start. Also reprogrammed defaults. Hit any button 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3, fast and close door. Let it sit 15 min to run and re-set defaults. Now I have heat and dry dishes.

Replaced pump and motor. For the price of the products individually, it only made sense to do the whole thing. As someone else mentioned, much easier to remove the dishwasher and turn it on it's side to remove/replace. Disconnect 3 fittings, 3 stop devices and remove. Other than getting about 20 cuts on my hands from all the metal, it wasn't bad at all.

This kit comes with the link cords and the balance wheels. I only needed the cords. I undid the set screws under the counter edge and slid the Dishwasher out from under the counter. One of the links had a broken cord and the spring had snapped to the very back of the space and was a bit hard to find. I used the good side as a guide to see how to thread the cord correctly. I did not replace the wheels since they appeared to be in good shape and looked like they might be a bit more difficult to replace than just the cord. For a second I thought I had ordered the wrong part because the new cord's attachment point at the hinge did not look exactly like the originals but the new design worked just like the original. I did need one other person to help stretch the spring and hold the door in the best position so I could attach the cord to the hinge. It's working perfectly now and I saved the wheels in case I need them later.

The upper spinner was laying in the top washer basket. I went online but no help was avaiable. Went to store where we purchased dishwasher and they gave me part number to order but not online I had to call to order. Part arrived in about three days. I took two screws loose on the top of dishwasher removed broke retainer to put new retainer in but I drop it into dishwasher so you have to me very careful
so I tried to order just the retainer but is not sold by it self. Had to order whole new kit. Other than that it is easy dishwasher runs like a new one.

Removed leads from fuse and installed jumper wire (while the power was off, then turned back on) to determine that circuit board was still good. Ordered new fuse and installed using existing wire connections. Did not splice in new connectors that came with fuse. Wires were clean and good and did not want to cut and splice.

I had removed this part several times before, it had clogged from sediment, so I had practice. That issue was resolved, but I determined the water level during the wash and rinse cycles was low, and the valve appeared to be the culprit. The trick is to remove the valve from the bracket, removing the single screw, and sliding the unit so the tangs on the bracket can be pushed to the rear and then towards the front. When you disconnect the electrical connection, then the valve can be pulled out towards the front for better access and to disconnect, if your supply hose is long enough. That makes swinging the wrench easier. Other wise it is tedious. Make sure to reapply thread tape after reconnecting the supply hose.

Replace motor/pump assembly

I peeled off the old seal and replaced with the new seal. The instructions were clear and easy to follow, however the new seal made the door not stay closed as the friction catch at the top was no strong enough to overcome the tension of the door closed with the new seal.

There were explicit instructions on the way the seal was to work with the sealed edge spreading into the tub area as the door closed. I was very careful to follow those instructions and made sure to seat the seal carefully. After I reinstalled the seal three times to see if I could get it to seat properly, as a last ditch effort I reversed the seal to the opposite way the instructions indicated and it worked with the door closing properly and the seal didn't leak.

Based on looking at the old seal and how it was originally installed, I actually think the seal was out of spec for the unit. However, if it isn't leaking that is what it's all about so we will see how long it holds.

I found instructions on line when I goggled my dishwasher name and model number with the words noisy door. There were three or four good suggestions at a couple of the sites I visited. I tried applying vasoline, then silicone to the rope where it travels through the plastic guides but that just cut the sound down about 50%. My dishwasher has plastic guides that look like rollers but they don't turn, they are fixed in place. The ropes squeak as the pass over the guides. The replacement part kit has plastic guides that turn like wheels now so the rope does not drag over them and squeak. This repair could be done by me in 20 minutes or less every time now that I know what I am doing.

I removed the black bottom metal cover then turned the nuts on the adjusting (leveling) bolts to lower the front end of the dishwasher so I could pull it out of the cabinet. Once I lowered is as low as it would go I opened the door and pushed down on it which tilts the dishwasher down and you pull out on it and the top lip clears the cabinet. If your dishwasher just pulls out the first time you try these steps may not be necessary.
Once the dishwasher is out the guides and rope are down at the bottom in the front by the door. It's obvious what to do to replace them.

Although the lower rack was a slightly different style than our original, it fit the dishwasher perfectly. We needed to transfer the silverware racks to the new rack and insert one set of removable tines. About 5 minutes and we are very happy with the repair.

Pulled everything out the front, and dug down to find a thrashed chopper assembly (like a little garbage disposal). The previous owner just tossed anything in; pop tops, plastic cutlery, etc.
Didn't pay attention to the exact installation of the chopper as I pulled it out, but, it turns out that it only goes in one way.
Used pictures and instructions I found online as a guide and didn't have any issues.
Replaced the check valve because it isn't expensive and I was in the neighborhood.

Remove upper tray and spray arm. Remove two screws retaining pipe for upper spray arm and overhead. Unscrew retainer on top of lower spray arm and remove. Gently rotate the upper feed pipe clockwise until pipe can be removed from lower pipe. You may then remove the lower pipe and bearing housing where the seal is. Reverse order for reassembly. I also replaced upper spray arm bushing. Very simple, remove one screw and the arm will come out.

Very simple. We had to remove the screws holding the metal cover on the inside of the dishwasher to access the electrical panel. Then we disconnected the wires that were connected to the fuse kit, unclipped the kit from the panel, clipped the new one on, and replaced the wires. Then all we had to do was screw the metal cover back onto the inside of the door and it worked just fine.