66517742K011 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

As I pulled out the old rubber gasket I noticed there was a flat side and a curved side, this is how the new one must go. When I put in the new gasket in I just made sure the flat side (faced out) and it really was very simple. It just fits inside a grove, very easy to install. I compared the to parts (old and new) they were exactly the same shape and length.
I was very impressed with the web site navigation and layout. I was able to zoom in on pictures of the part and there were exact measurements of dimensions.

My dishwasher motor was getting very noisy lately and finally died altogether. (the fwd bearing and seals had worn out. There was a small pile of what looked like white sand under the motor from the wear) I removed the dishwasher from the counter after turning off the power at the breaker box. I then turned the dishwasher on its side. The pump motor is removed by first removing the electrical connector, then loosening the retaining bolt and twisting the motor counterclockwise about a quarter turn. The gasket required a little force to become unseated from the housing but not to bad. Wiggle and pull! Be sure to take a look at the alignment at this point to facilitate reinstallation.To install the new motor, align the mark on the impeller(small delta) with the mark on the motor. Insert Motor into housing and turn clockwise one quarter turn till retaining bolt hole is aligned. Install retaining bolt. Be sure to note the position of the stainless steel screen where you insert the motor. Place it back in position before installing the pump if it is disturbed. I lubed the oring with vaseline prior to install also. The new oring was diffrent and did not feel very tight when i installed , but there were no leaks and the dishwasher is running like new. Partselect had the part at my door the next day with no upgrade in shipping charges and I will use them in the future. This forum helped me choose them and made the task easier to do. Hope this helps you as well.

Checked grinder and cleaned it several times, adjusted blades. Dishes would be clean for approx. 6 cycles, then would not clean. Placed dishwasher on its front and removed the motor. Removed grinder and impeller which I found to be worn so that the blades would not turn on the grinder which caused it to collect food particles. The impeller locks in easily.

unscrewed dishwasher from cabinet ...,moved out slightly....while door closed ...reached with long nosed pliers door spring pulled forward...and allowing white plastic part that fits through sleeve and fit new sleeve over it...pulled spring attaching white plastic part and pushed unit back to cabinet and replaced screws DONE.

I shut off the power to the dishwasher, then I removed the front panel under the door. On the right side just behind the electrical box there are two wires going up to the hi-limit thermostat, (you may need a small mirror to see it), remove one screw that is holding the thermostat bracket, unplug the wires from the old thermostat and install new one. Screw bracket and thermostat back to the underside of the dishwasher, reinstall the front panel, turn on the power, done.

Sears could not supply us with the replacement cap for the dishwasher. We were saved by being able to get the cap here on your web page.Your web sight is like going into the garage and finding the part you saved up for many years that you knew you would need down the road.

Several hours to diagnose problem: Removed all the plastic water distribution tubes to top rack and found no blockages. removed lower water jets, drain screens using star driver on 6 screws. still could find now blockages. decided problem had to be in pump mounted below unit so completely disconnected unit and removed from under counter. Upon removing lower plate below door I discovered a plastic pouch containing an excellent trouble shooting guide with complete dis-assembly instructions and parts breakout diagrams with P/N listings! First thing I discovered from this was that the chopper assembly was hiding under a plastic cover just under the filter screen I had already removed. The trick was to press down on the right side of the plate to get it to pop up and reveal the chopper. The whole chopper assembly slides out without tools. I found the strainer plate behind the chopper blade totally plugged as the blade had broken off the plastic drive shaft because the retaining knob on the end of the shaft had broken off. I was able to drill and tap the shaft and install a SS machine screw with washer to reassemble the chopper blade on the shaft. Not expecting this "Joe Maggee" repair to last more than a few cycles I went online with the P/N and googled PartSelect. Placed the order and chose std delivery over 2day or next day since I expected the repair to last for the week. I put everything back together and the first load came out perfect! This was Sunday afternoon. Tuesday the part arrived at my doorstep! 15 minutes and the new part was in. My "Joe Maggee" repair is now in the junk drawer awaiting the next pistachio shell that gets run through the washer.

To empty the water in the dishwater basin, I pushed the cancel button and closed the door. I then turned the electrical breaker to the off position that supplies electricity to the dishwasher. I confirmed the power was off by attempting to start the dishwaser. I removed the metal plate between the dishwater door and the floor by removing the two screws. I removed the two screws that connect the top of the dishwasher to the underside of the countertop. I shut the water valve that supplies hot water to the dishwasher (mine was located under the sink). I disconnected the drain hose (plastic) by using pliers to loosen the clamp the holds the hose on the outlet of the drain pump (drain pump is much smaller than the pump that needed replacement). A towell is handy to soak up the water that comes out the hoses. I loosened the nut on the water supply hose (this was difficult because of lack of room)using a wrench and pliers. I opened the door on the metal box that houses the wire nuts for the electrical connection to dishwater, and I removed the wire nuts and the screw for the ground wire. Once the white, black, and gound wires were disconnected, I could pull the dishwater out. I also had to pull the drain hose out from the clips on the side of the washer to pull the dishwasher out into the middle of the kitchen floor. I flipped the dishwasher on its back. I removed the single bolt that held the broken pump motor to the dishwasher, and then the motor twisted counterclockwise and I pulled it out. The pump shaft would not turn freely with my pliers, so I knew the motor was broken. I removed the pump end (impeller) from the dishwasher by tapping it with my screwdriver. The impeller end came out along with a metal screen. The metal screen was 50% plugged, so I cleaned it and put it back in place. I wet the gasket on the new pump motor and slid it back in place while rotating clockwise and locking it in place with the tabs. I replaced the bolt that holds the motor in place and reversed the repair procedure to re-install the dishwasher. Be sure to run the dishwasher and look for any leaks. The last step is to replace the metal plate between the floor and door. While I had the dishwasher pulled out, I discovered another problem with the pulleys and strings that prevent the heavy door from flopping down, but I won't include this repair. The pump and motor must have been failing for some time because the dishwasher is much quieter now and the dishwasher is much faster. I am sure the plugged screen didn't help either.

removed both upper and lower racks. removed lower spray arm(left hand thread) removed "water delivry tube and upper spray arm. removed torx screws on pump cover. removed inner chopper cover. Chopper assy had come apart and was full of food crud. cleaned out and installed new chopper assy. kind of tricky don't force it. reassembled. tested OK.could tell sound of more forceful water pressure

I ordered the part and it fit perfectly!! About five minutes to screw it onto my faucet and problem solved!!!

remove front door outer cover,remove the hex screws holding the dispenser.unplug the wire to the dispenser and remove.replace with the new dispenser, fasten with hex head screws and plug in the wire. make sure you put the vinyl flap back in place. close front door cover and fasten.

Primarily, I read the instructions on line and watched the great videos explaining the repair. While the DW was out, I decided to change out the Drain Pump and the Chopper Assembly, even though only the Circulation Pump and Motor was my problem. These three items are the primary mechanical wear components and it made sense to me to replace these items. Perhaps I'll get another 10 years out of the DW. Two notes about the repairs. If you replace the chopper it isn't clear in the video where exactly it fits into the housing as the video mechanic did a great job of blocking the view of this part of the procedure. It took me awhile to figure out the chopper screen didn't go in the narrow trough, but just outside of that trough. Also, to lubricate the gaskets when putting the motor and the drain pump back in, I use a light coating of petroleum jelly. It is a good lubricant to facilitate the insertion of the both pumps. The pumps slid in easily and there were no leaks when I test ran the DW outside of the cabinetry. If you have a modicum of mechanical ability this job is a very simple, straight forward process. Good Luck!

I released the heater element from the clips on the bottom of the waaher tub. I pulled the unit out from the wall and disconnected power. There are two slip on wire terminals on each end of the heater element accessible from the back that need to be removed. One of them was badly rusted from leaking water, which had caused the short, and had to be replaced. These terminals and the crimping tool to install them are available at any home center. I removed and discarded the old plastic nuts since one of them was damaged by arching from the short circuit. Moving around to the front of the dishwasher, I removed the old heater and installed the new one. I had ordered new rubber washers, but the new heater came with them already installed. Since one of the old ones failed and caused the leak, they are a good thing to keep around as spares anyway. I installed the new nuts and tightened them to enough to ensure that the washers made a good seal. I reconnected the wire terminals to the heater, reconnected power and moved the unit back into place. The circuit opening when the heater failed caused a "call for service" error and the controller would not allow the unit to run. You will know you have this by the "CLEAN" LED flashing seven times. Clear the diagnostics by pressing the buttons for "HEATED DRY", "NORMAL", "HEATED DRY", "NORMAL" and after the controller resets, the dishwaher is ready to run. It's worked like new ever since.

Started as dishes not getting clean and I observed that the top arm was not spinning and there was very low water pressure coming out of the jets. After making sure the water level was up to the bottom of the heating element and making sure the jets were not clogged I checked the filter and chopper. It was a little tough to get the cover off of the chopper but once I did I could see that the chopper scraper was broken off and the shaft was broken. The screen was all clogged up with stuff. Ordered a new assembly and put it in making sure to compress the spring and make sure the gears lined up. Now it is running great.
I think the Kitchenaid is the same as the Whirlpools.

I watched the instructional videos that showed how to replace the inlet fill hose/water inlet a couple of times. The repair was exactly as shown. No trouble at all.